I have a TK 520 o ring chain on my 99 KDX 200. No matter how well I lube this chain it still seems to have some kinks in it. I also notice that it seems to drag compared to the stock chain I had on the bike. I wonder how much power the bike looses using an o ring chain vs a stock chain. I will say that I have only had to adjust the o ring chain twice last riding season. The o ring chain seems to be wearing like iron. I guess loosing a little power is worth the reliability. What are your thoughts on this issue? Does anybody think their o ring chain is a power robber?
O Ring Chains
- Thread starter BB007
- Start date
There is no difference between the non-ring chan and the ring chain, except for the rings that hold in lube and keep out contaminant from the pin/bushing area. So, there should be no reliability issue between the construction of the two types of chains.
If either type chain "blows" out, it will be due to the chain having been worn past limits, and/or bad maintenance and adjustment. Unless of course a foriegn object breaks it.
The reason a ring chain will kink is usually due to links having rings that are torn or violated in some way that allows water and contaminant to enter the pin/bushing area. When it enters it can cause oxidation of the metal and seizing up that link. Even one bad link in a ring chain can cause an early death of both chain and sprockets.
A non-ring chain is every bit as reliable as a ring chain if proper care is given.
BB007, your chain is probably toast if it is kinking. I would suggest that you change it out before it eats your sprockets. Also, you want to be sure and not lube your chain with a tacky type lube that will attract sand and grit that can ruin your chain.
If either type chain "blows" out, it will be due to the chain having been worn past limits, and/or bad maintenance and adjustment. Unless of course a foriegn object breaks it.
The reason a ring chain will kink is usually due to links having rings that are torn or violated in some way that allows water and contaminant to enter the pin/bushing area. When it enters it can cause oxidation of the metal and seizing up that link. Even one bad link in a ring chain can cause an early death of both chain and sprockets.
A non-ring chain is every bit as reliable as a ring chain if proper care is given.
BB007, your chain is probably toast if it is kinking. I would suggest that you change it out before it eats your sprockets. Also, you want to be sure and not lube your chain with a tacky type lube that will attract sand and grit that can ruin your chain.
- Thread starter
- #5
Guys, I have been using a stiff bristle brush not a wire brush to clean the crud off of my chain. I use Maxima chain wax to lube the chain. This chain has always wanted to kink up some and has much more drag compared to the stock chain when I have the bike jacked up and spin the rear wheele. All of this has got my gears turning. I wish I would have just got another stock chain for the bike, maybe I will.
wibby,
Perhaps you could explain your procedure in detail for us.
I'm having a hard time figuring out what in the world you are talking about.
Perhaps you could explain your procedure in detail for us.
I'm having a hard time figuring out what in the world you are talking about.
Actually, I don’t know what I’m talking about either! :confused:
But here goes... When I bought a new chain a while back I counted how many links the old one had and broke the new chain at that number. It did not even come close to fitting so I had to put some links back on with the breaker, but now the chain was all kinked up. So I used the breaker to move the pin a little bit one way and flipped the breaker over to the other side and pushed the pin back the other way. This may not always work but it worked for me that day.
Also a big screwdriver or other wedge shaped device and a big hammer can be used to pry the plates apart a little. But some people might not approve of that method. ;)
But here goes... When I bought a new chain a while back I counted how many links the old one had and broke the new chain at that number. It did not even come close to fitting so I had to put some links back on with the breaker, but now the chain was all kinked up. So I used the breaker to move the pin a little bit one way and flipped the breaker over to the other side and pushed the pin back the other way. This may not always work but it worked for me that day.
Also a big screwdriver or other wedge shaped device and a big hammer can be used to pry the plates apart a little. But some people might not approve of that method. ;)
wibby,
Once you have moved a pin with a breaker, you have violated the "staking" or "peening" of the pin end. You should NEVER try to replace a link after you have removed it with a chain breaker. You are asking for a big-time crash, as there is nothing to hold the plate on the reworked link unless you have used a rivet tool and restaked the pins. (always set your adjusters in and lay the chain around the sprockets before breaking)
Any ring chain that has kinks needs to be replaced and is far from a reliable chain.
Once you have moved a pin with a breaker, you have violated the "staking" or "peening" of the pin end. You should NEVER try to replace a link after you have removed it with a chain breaker. You are asking for a big-time crash, as there is nothing to hold the plate on the reworked link unless you have used a rivet tool and restaked the pins. (always set your adjusters in and lay the chain around the sprockets before breaking)
Any ring chain that has kinks needs to be replaced and is far from a reliable chain.
- Thread starter
- #13
Hey Wibby, my x ring chains master link was a real PITA too! I know exactly what you mean. You have a hell of a time squeezing the o rings tight enough to get the clip snapped in far enough to seat. I think a high quality no o ring TK chain for me next.
BB007
BB007
Jason,
Different companies or lines use different pin diameters so no, you cannot replace it with any masterlink.
My o-Ring has kinked for 1.5 years now but once it warms up it is fine. It hasn't stretched much at all, and for woodsriding I notice no powerloss. I like the o-ring despite the masterlink issue. Also very little sprocket wear. I don't have the time to maintain a non-Oring properly.
The pins and clip always wear on the outside, so I reverse the clip till it wears on the second side then replace the masterlink. I just discovered the wear is from my chain guide. The chain only hits on the outside poly insert, not the inside. It's plain to see once you look at it. I'm thinking a few whacks with a mallet or a shim or 2 will move the guide where I need it. Anyone else have this experience and how did you solve it?
Joe Chief
Different companies or lines use different pin diameters so no, you cannot replace it with any masterlink.
My o-Ring has kinked for 1.5 years now but once it warms up it is fine. It hasn't stretched much at all, and for woodsriding I notice no powerloss. I like the o-ring despite the masterlink issue. Also very little sprocket wear. I don't have the time to maintain a non-Oring properly.
The pins and clip always wear on the outside, so I reverse the clip till it wears on the second side then replace the masterlink. I just discovered the wear is from my chain guide. The chain only hits on the outside poly insert, not the inside. It's plain to see once you look at it. I'm thinking a few whacks with a mallet or a shim or 2 will move the guide where I need it. Anyone else have this experience and how did you solve it?
Joe Chief
Krause sells master links for his chains.
You could still possibly buy another brand as long as you measure the pin dia and length before u buy. Then you could see if the new one fits and use the original for a spare. The only time I broke a chain I lost the master and broke the link next to it, so a master wouldn't have helped me in that case. I had the chain too tight and it eventually snapped.
You could go to the shop and have them cut 2 or 3 links plus a 2 masterlinks. It could be enough to get u home. I usually carry the clip for the countersprocket because one of my buds lost his once. It's cheap, lightweight and only cost a few bucks for insurance.
I kinda got away from carrying too much with me. I used to use a fannypack or backpak but now all I use is the Moose rear fender bag. For off road it is awesome and I enjoy riding a lot more since I don't have 15 lbs strapped to my waist or back. Also considering a front fender pack although it will carry less weight. In either pak the contents can take a beating if not properly secured. I already ruined 2 cellphone covers because they were hitting the bolts. Maybe some thick cell foam would remedy this.
I haven't gotten stuck yet (knock on wood) though sometimes I get thirsty before we hit a watering hole. I usually ride 30 to 40 miles when I get out.
Happy Trails,
Chief
You could go to the shop and have them cut 2 or 3 links plus a 2 masterlinks. It could be enough to get u home. I usually carry the clip for the countersprocket because one of my buds lost his once. It's cheap, lightweight and only cost a few bucks for insurance.
I kinda got away from carrying too much with me. I used to use a fannypack or backpak but now all I use is the Moose rear fender bag. For off road it is awesome and I enjoy riding a lot more since I don't have 15 lbs strapped to my waist or back. Also considering a front fender pack although it will carry less weight. In either pak the contents can take a beating if not properly secured. I already ruined 2 cellphone covers because they were hitting the bolts. Maybe some thick cell foam would remedy this.
I haven't gotten stuck yet (knock on wood) though sometimes I get thirsty before we hit a watering hole. I usually ride 30 to 40 miles when I get out.
Happy Trails,
Chief
Krause = Sidewinder
Until you've done a face plant, you won't appreciate the non-O-ring chain. Mud will cause a O-ring chain to bind up and lock..... This has happened to several freinds of mine and I refuse to run one..... standard chains for me please! Much cheaper and lasts as long....so why? MX...sure, woods...nope!
GREER RACING
Member
- Jun 27, 2002
- 19
- 0
The first time that I installed an O-Ring chain I had a problem trying to squeze the master link plate on in order to get the clip on. I ended up using a chain saw file to enlarge the holes a little to make it easier. It was still somewhat of a pain. The next time I saw the directions on the back of the box and read them. Amazing what you can learn with a little time spent reading. Come to find out the master link was a press fit. All you have to do is to use a c-clamp with a small socket placed over the pin to squeze the plate into position. Once you do this, the clip installs very easily. Go figure, directions!
Gary Greer
Gary Greer
89kdx200rdr
~SPONSOR~
- Apr 19, 2003
- 488
- 0
with your bike on a stand with your o ring spin the rear wheel. now remember that and try it again with a standard chain. rotates more freely huh. o rings cause drag. use it if u want ill lube my standard chain.