Plastics and Shifter ?'s

[Bunya]

The 2 stroke motor oil is strictly for mixing with the gas, though a high quality 2 stroke oil is highly recomended over the generic brands. A search will yield more advice than you'll ever want to know on the subject. For the trans, regular 10-40 is often spec'd by the manufacturer. Many folks run ATF (Type F) or 80w gear oil (not to be confused with 80/90w hypoid gear oil(rear end)). Again a search will give you loads of information on trans oil.

If the threads aren't totally wasted on the oil drain plug, I'd try using teflon tape to try to seal it. Oil and gas breaks silicone down and is pretty much useless in this application. A better solution would be to re-tap it a larger size or use a thread insert.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Teflon tape is what it looks like. Not silicone. I'm going to run down the the store today and get some trans-oil and see how it looks and find the leak.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Well, I finally got a hold of some new trans-oil. When I went to drain the old stuff out, it didn't look good. It was milky with green coolant. What can I expect to replace? Is it just the water pump shaft seal or what? I'm picking up the parts for the shifter around noon today so that would be the time to order the parts I'm going to need.

 

[2strokerfun]

Take you water pump cover to the dealer or ask to look at a new one and see. I still think that broken bolt is your weep hole and the reason you have coolant in your case is because someone butchered this to cover up the symptoms of a leaking seal. Don't think Kawasaki engineers really cared about putting a drain plug at lowest point of cooling system. It's not that big of deal to drain coolant out of a 100 pound dirt bike.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

True, well I'll have the entire right side torn off this Saturday to replace the shifter and I'll order the water pump shaft seal this afternoon. Is it a bid geal to leave that bolt in there? Or should I go ahead and drill it out?

Drain plug is also stripped pretty good. I need to re-thread the hole in the case.

EDIT***-I just read an old post that answered my question about drilling out the weep hole. I'll get that bolt out asap.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Ok, so I finally got some pictures in. I took the right side cover off to finally see what I'm going to work with. Looks like there is a plastic little gear that turn with the water pump impeller that has about 6-8 teeth sheered off. Need a new one of those. To get to the water pump shaft seal I guess I just remove the c-clip on the gear and that should give me access to pry it off.

Here ya go....(I removed the damaged plastic gear before the picture was taken).

I'm assuming that clip on the bottom left of the picture is the shift shaft???

Blurry but this is where the W/P shaft seal is located behined the bearings on the bottom right of the case.

 

[Bunya]

The seal for the water pump is in the r/s cover you took off behind the bearing that the shaft for the plastic gear rides in. From the fiche it looks like it's installed from the inside of the cover, but it may get installed from the outside after pulling the impeller. It should be pretty obvious by looking at it.

The seal behind the gear (primary drive) in the third photo is your r/s crank seal.

Your shift shaft assy. is highlighted in red:

It consists of several parts, I think the 'clip' you're referring to is the heavy spring that centers it.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Well, I read your post, Bunya, and was a little confused on what shaft you were talking about and how it connected but I just got done picking up my parts at Daves Cycles and asked him about the gear. Turns out that you can only buy the plastic gear WITH the shaft. $40.00 right there. I guess it's o.k. though because that was a major problem. There were teeth lying inside the cover. Nothing else seems damaged and everything else looks to be in great shape. Teardown will be this Sunday most likely but the new gear wont arrive until next Thursday or Friday unfortunatley.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

I got the shift shaft replaced but how in the hell do I get the water pump seal out? I tried prying that SOB but it's in there good.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Bump

 

[Bunya]

I'm not really sure what to suggest. A pic might be useful to give us a better idea of your situation. Provided there's access, prying has always worked. On my RM the pump seal was buried in a 'hole' so I used a long punch from the opposite side to knock it out. The seal is made out of sheet metal so it shouldn't be that difficult to remove.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

The small seal with the bearing around it is what I'm talking about...

.

I'll try when I get home today to remove it but it's not possible to hit it from the other side.

 

[Bunya]

The small seal with the bearing around it is what I'm talking about...

The only seal in your photo is the R/S crank seal. The small bearing to the lower right supports the shaft you're replacing.
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i89/RatGuru/KXSEALID.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

The water pump seal is in the r/s cover, not the crankcase. Here's the fiche:<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i89/RatGuru/KX_RS_ID.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

As I mentioned earlier in the post, in the fiche it looks like the seal is installed on the inside first, followed by the bearing. If that's the case, then the bearing has to be removed before you can get the seal out. That is a goofy setup because you risk damaging the bearing when pulling it out. Normally it would be designed with the seal on the outside of the cover, behind the impeller. It's possible that it is installed from the outside and the fiche is deceiving. It should be obvious by looking at it.

You really should purchase a service manual as it will tell you exactly what you need to do.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Wow, cool deal. Thats a perfect diagram right there. Thanks man, I'll see if I can steal a manual off F-bay this weekend to help anwer some of my questions. I'm just trying to get this thing up and running ASAP.

 

[mox69]

Well I must say, your about 110% more knowledgeable / adept at repairs than most dirt bike newbies :)


What you are doing right now is about as complicated as it gets, barring a full engine rebuild or something.

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Well, I went ahead and replaced the WP shaft seal and gear last night since the parts came in. Took me about 2 hours to figure out because none of the schematics show the shaft and bearing that were in the cover. It was strange, I dont know if that was the original shaft or if someone rigged it up out of an older KX80 but it somehow ran the waterpump in the same way that the one shown in the schematic does.

But all in all it went well. New gaskets, seals, etc. The bike doesnt start now however. I cleaned the sparkplug but nothing yet. I'll buy Ether today and see if that'll get it done. I didn't tought anything within the cover that would keep it from starting. I least I dont see anything. The clutch is readjusted and fully engages. Nothing else should really matter. I'll buy a new plug and Ether today and see what happends. It hink it might just be a gas issue because it always starts up first kick but the day I looked at the bike(before buying it) the kid said it hadn't ran in a week or more. It didn't start that day either. However, the very next morning it started first kick for him.

We'll see how it goes later on today.

 

[2strokerfun]

Try a new plug, fresh gas. I'm not a fan of ether. 1) it has no lubrication and 2) it has been known to destroy a rod or two. If you are going to do this, I prefer putting a few drops of gas/oil mix under the spark plug. But I really don't recommend that, either, since you have either a spark problem or a fuel problem or it would currently start right up.
Sometimes cleaning a fouled plug isn't enough.
Good luck

 

[94hardbody4x4]

Well, I bought a new plug and some Ether and it started up 2nd kick. I'm pretty relieved. I drove it and realized that the clutch isn't engaging all the way. It just needs to be adjusted. I had no time to do it though seeing as I was on a luch break. Also, the idle is through the roof so I'll adjust that as well. Runs strong besides those two issues though. It should be up and running 100% by today at 6:00pm. I'm pretty stoked to see how it runs.