Please Help!!!

[sho061]

Hi, I am new to the forums and just bought my first KDX a couple days ago. It is a 2000 KDX 220. I got the bike pretty cheap because it needs a little bit of work. (New chain, rear wheel bearings). Fairly simple stuff. My biggest problem is that the clutch cable was not on the bike. I have a new one to put on I just have no clue how and where to feed it. If anyone can send me pics of how it is routed that would be great.

I have done a lot of searching online and can't find a thing.

It was also missing the front number plate. Does anyone know where to buy this. I would really like to have the light operational. Do they make after market parts for this?

Thanks for your help

Or if someone can try to describe it or even point in the right direction to find this info.

 

[Joburble]

Here is what's in the workshop manual http://www.visualize.co.nz/kdx200/clutchcable.jpg
I will leave it there for a couple of days.

Probably a photo is the way to go, anyone got their camera handy?

 

[reepicheep]

It goes to the clutch hand lever on one end, and the clutch crankcase lever arm on the other ;).

I've routed it a few different ways, and it hasn't seemed to matter. It should go in front of the bars, down along the steering neck on the right side, down between the radiator and the frame, then into the little socket mounting point on the crank case. When you pull the clutch, the lever arm should swing through 90 degrees to the cable, that gives you the best leverage and best clutch pull.

If it stops short of 90 degrees to the cable, you need to add a shim (factory part, or use a washer the right size) to the clutch pusher post. That requires pulling the outer clutch cover, not a big deal, but you may need a new gasket if the old one sticks to both sides.

It's a 220, and they have a reputation of weak factory pistons, so you would be strongly encouraged to pop off the jug and head as a unit (not a big deal... remove spark plug boot, coolant lines, a few KIPS bits, and a few bolts). Avoid disturbing the head to jug seal, so you don't risk head gasket leaks. Then just lift the whole jug and head assembly off the piston. You can then check the bore and the piston skirt.

I have a 200 piston here on my desk with a cracked stock skirt, and I have a friends 220 in my garage that the previous owner spent good money to put a new steel sleeve in, and replace half a crank case, because his stock 220 piston exploded within three months of when he originally bought the bike.

This isn't a slam on the 220 or to say you bought a bad bike. It's a used two stroke with an unknown history... so you should expect to replace the piston with a good new replacement (forged is more expensive and will last longer, cast is fine also, but you will want to replace it sooner). If you pull it apart and find it perfect, or if it looks like a nice forged Wiesco in good shape, you can decide if you want to risk riding and checking every winter.

If you are coming from a four stroke and reading this... DON'T PANIC! Two years ago I finished rebuilding rebuilding a KLR-250 four stroke (starved it for oil and spun a cam in the head), and reading my suggestions above would have had me pretty depressed. When I went to check the piston on my "new to me" two stroke, and saw how easy it was, I literally laughed out loud. :nener:

Welcome to the forum! You picked a GREAT bike!

 

[sho061]

Thanks for all of your help. I believe that i have the cable in the right pace now. My biggest problem is the hook on th crank case is busted but i know that i can rig something up to hold the cable tight at that point where it needs to be.

From what the guy told me, who i bought it from, he just had a new piston put in. I'm sure it would still be a good idea to pull it apart and take a look though.

Again thanks for all the help. I'm sure i'll have more questions at some point :)

 

[reepicheep]

I'm trying to remember where that post is, I think it is on the inner clutch cover. You have a few easy options (assuming my memory is right regarding where that post sits)..

1) (the smart one)... go on ebay and buy a used and intact inner case cover. I think I paid about $70 for my last one, and that was without waiting for a deal.
2) (cheaper gamble #1)... take the inner clutch cover that I cracked and then aluma-welded and that is sitting in my garage, and put that on, and put it on, and see if it leaks or cracks again.
3) (cheaper gamble #2 if you have the old parts)... aluma-weld the post back on and see if it holds up.
4) (cheaper gamble #3) grind what is left of the post flat, drill a hole in it, tap it, and thread in a bolt. The bolt would have to have some kind of slotted collar in the top... maybe you could drill through the head then slot it with a dremel tool cutting wheel, and put an extra lock nut on the bolt shaft so you can tighten it down in the right position. That depends on enough material in case to anchor the bolt, which is by no means a given. That post sees non trivial forces.

Where are you at? Near Dayton / Cincinnati Ohio?

 

[sho061]

Portland, Or.

If i remember correctly the post is not on the cover.

There is plenty of post left so i was thnking about drilling a hole through it and using a bot with a clamp to hold it tight

 

[sr5bidder]

I paid $20 for my inner/ outer cover my old one had got punched out by the kicker and a stay bolt ...I used epoxy to seal the crack and it seeped a bit but the clutch holder was good ...are you interested pay me to ship it and its yours...if I were you i would fix it right though. anything you may do to fix it is going to be dangerous to you

you could get a bracket from a bike that uses a bolt on holder (most yamaha's) and make a custom cable

 

[reepicheep]

*forehead slap*. Great suggestion sr5bidder. Just get (or make) a stamped piece of metal that is held on by two of the clutch cover bolts, and is bent up over to the right position with a collar. Pretty easy to fabricate, should work great.

You could probably do it with one bolt, if you bent a 1" wide strip ad just the right place so that it lays flat against both the top and side of the cover when bolted down. That'd keep it from being too flexy.

 

[Joburble]

Just get (or make) a stamped piece of metal that is held on by two of the clutch cover bolts, and is bent up over to the right position with a collar. Pretty easy to fabricate, should work great.

That is the system the KLX300 uses and it works fine.

 

[sho061]

Good idea.. I'll check into that.

 

[julien_d]

FYI the cast piston is not fine for the 220. For some reason they tend to shatter. You definitely want to get a wiseco in there. The 200's do fine on the OEM cast piston though. Strange...

 

[sho061]

The piston has been changed so that is good. Also i found after taking the crankcase cover off that the bolt that holds the clutch unit in was not even really on. It was kind of crooked and cross threaded at the end of the post. So I took it off and put it on straight and tightened it down. I haven't put the cover back on and filled it with oil yet because I don't have a gasket but I am almost positive thats why the clutch wasn't working.

I don't know who did the clutch work on it last but wow :)