<Edit Note:> I forgot to mention, pull the neg battery lead before you start!
Got it. Looking at the first of the three pages in the link I posted (MXC Without Lights), #13 is your start/stop switch, and #12 is the first connector downstream from it. If you have enough wire length before the connector (6" or more), cut either the black/white or the orange wire at a convienient spot. Connect your 2 new wires that will go to the new interupt switch to each end you just cut. Be sure to use wire of at least the same gage (size) as what is there now!!! Then, just run your 2 new wires to wherever you mount your new interupt switch. Your interupt switch will be a SPST (Single Pole, Single Throw) switch. If it has more contacts than that, you need to make sure you are using only one set (ie: any of the pairs of poles that make/break when you activate/deactivate the switch).
Note 1: If you don't have enough wire to work with before that first connector, you will want to cut and splice into only the red/white wire on the backside of that first connector downstream of the start/stop switch. The reason for that is because there are two wires on the same pin on the backside of that connector feeding the black/white wire on the start/stop switch side of the connector. Looks like one of those wires backfeeds power to a voltage limiter for a fan (even if it's not installed, the wiring is still there, just like for the headlights). My guess is there will be plenty of wire before that first connector to work with, but I could be wrong. You might want to follow the wires from the stock switch to see if you can splice in at a hidden location like under the tank at the frame "spine". Makes for a cleaner look. Plus, lots of the wiring harnesses seem to congregate there. You don't really want splices up around the handlebars if you can help it. Also, you can use those "butt splices" that you crimp on, or better, solder the bare wires and heat shrink them. Don't forget to slide a length of heat shrink onto the wires before you solder them! (ask me how I know that!)
Note #2: Black/white probably = black with white stripe, etc. It might be black stripe on a white wire, but regardless, it will be the only wire with that exact color combo. Same thing for the red/white wire on the backside of the first connector after the start/stop switch (mentioned in Note 1).
I saw a switch hanging on the wall at my local shop that was exactly like the WR lightswitch I mentioned earlier. It was about $13. The OEM switch I ordered a few years back was aroung $35. So, check your local shops, they might have something hanging around for a decent price. If you can't find a suitable switch, let me know and I'll grab the one I saw here and send it to you.
I've PM'd you my numbers, gimme a call if you have any questions. :thumb: