Some time ago, I was going on a trial run with my yam dt250 (78) as I've been trying to turn it from a shed sleeper into a daily driver. I had spun the flywheel loose and shattered the woodruff key.
As I was waiting for the local parts shop to send me a new key, I torqued the hell out of the flywheel in the 'best guess' location where it should line up, so that I could keep moving with my weekend fiddlings. It worked fine, but I didn't take it on any serious romps.
Once the key came in, I put things back together and too it for a more spirited ride. Well, I suppose in my rookie condition I didn't apply enough torque to the flywheel nut because on the way home, about two miles away, the idle starts to increase at the stoplights. I wasnt sure if it was air leaking past the crank seals leaning the mix, a bogus something in the carb, or the timing.
Turns out the flywheel had spun loose. The bike ran really badly before finally coasting to a stop. Some roadside wrenching got the flywheel back on, but I noticed I didn't have any spark anymore. I did notice that the flywheel was HOT from friction though!
Back home, a closer inspection of the flywheel didn't show any leads from the condenser, breaker, or the two magneto coils melted, damaged, etc. Everything appears normal. BUT on the face of the lightning coil, some of the leads are abraded such that they are probably shorting to their neighbors and making the functional length of the coil wire shorter.
Is there another place I should inspect on the bike that may have been damaged from a wildly out-of wack timing situation that would affect a loss of spark? Do I need to re-wind the damaged coil even though it's only missing about 5 turns on account of the short? (there is end-to-end continuity, still)
anyone wanna buy a titled dt250? hehe.
As I was waiting for the local parts shop to send me a new key, I torqued the hell out of the flywheel in the 'best guess' location where it should line up, so that I could keep moving with my weekend fiddlings. It worked fine, but I didn't take it on any serious romps.
Once the key came in, I put things back together and too it for a more spirited ride. Well, I suppose in my rookie condition I didn't apply enough torque to the flywheel nut because on the way home, about two miles away, the idle starts to increase at the stoplights. I wasnt sure if it was air leaking past the crank seals leaning the mix, a bogus something in the carb, or the timing.
Turns out the flywheel had spun loose. The bike ran really badly before finally coasting to a stop. Some roadside wrenching got the flywheel back on, but I noticed I didn't have any spark anymore. I did notice that the flywheel was HOT from friction though!
Back home, a closer inspection of the flywheel didn't show any leads from the condenser, breaker, or the two magneto coils melted, damaged, etc. Everything appears normal. BUT on the face of the lightning coil, some of the leads are abraded such that they are probably shorting to their neighbors and making the functional length of the coil wire shorter.
Is there another place I should inspect on the bike that may have been damaged from a wildly out-of wack timing situation that would affect a loss of spark? Do I need to re-wind the damaged coil even though it's only missing about 5 turns on account of the short? (there is end-to-end continuity, still)
anyone wanna buy a titled dt250? hehe.
