So I'm changing the rear wheel bearings on my 2000 RM 125 and I pounded out the first bearing ok. The other side of the hub was a different story. The old bearings were really bad, rusted in and really stuck in there. So I pounded on them for a bit and I managed to pound out just the center of the two remaining bearings. (they're directly next to each other on the brake rotor side of the hub) I now have a huge problem, the two outer casings of the old bearings are stuck in the hub and I have no way to pound them out. :bang: I've tried liquid wrench and WD 40 but there's just no way to pound them out since they are just the rims of the bearings left stuck in the hub. Would heating them free them from the hub or at least help? Any ideas are appreciated.
Rear wheel bearing problem
- Thread starter Nick90
- Start date
Rotorranch
Member
- Feb 10, 2007
- 436
- 0
Did you remove the circlip from that side that holds the bearings in place?
Don't ask how I know. :|
Rotor
Don't ask how I know. :|
Rotor
If it has one it will be the thing that's keeping the bearing from coming out ;)
Heating the hub makes a huge difference too.
Heating the hub makes a huge difference too.
- Dec 26, 1999
- 19,765
- 1
I don't see one on the parts diagram so you must be dealing with a corroded race. Understandable since you have a steel race and aluminum hub. Try PB Blaster it's a much better penetrant than WD40. Another option is to find a socket that fits snugly in the hole and use it to drive the race out. Keep in mind that you don't have to use a hammer! A big C clamp can do wonders if you don't have a press handy, just place a large socket on the side you want the race to pop out on.
I used a dremmel and burned thru most of the race on the YZ rear wheel..
You have to be very careful, and just get most of the way thru.. Don't burn all the way into the hub. Then you should be left with a nice soft spot in the race that will give when you try to drive it out.
You have to be very careful, and just get most of the way thru.. Don't burn all the way into the hub. Then you should be left with a nice soft spot in the race that will give when you try to drive it out.
Ol'89r
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Jan 27, 2000
- 6,958
- 45
Nick90 said:
Take your wheel to a welding shop and have someone tig weld a bead of weld on the inside of the bearing race. Right where the ball bearings ride. The weld will shrink the outer race and it will fall out. It can also be done with a wire welder but you have to place something in the bore of the bearing boss to protect it from the spatter that a wire welder produces.
If the bearing doesn't fall out on it's own, weld a plate across the bearing and drive on the plate.
It's always best to heat your hubs first before removing or replacing a bearing.
Rotorranch
Member
- Feb 10, 2007
- 436
- 0
Rotorranch said:
Sorry...my bad. I thought I was in the KDX forum. :bang:
The RM doen't have a circlip.
Not sure about the RM, but some hubs have a relief cut into them so you can get a punch on the outer race of the bearing. If so, you will need a long punch with a good tip, and a BIG hammer to drive out the outer race. :nod:
Rotor
use a dremmel - cut through opposit sides of the race -pop them out with a screwdriver--
just pretend its your teeth your grindin on - and dont go through too deep- even if you do gouge it a lil it wont be junk- ive seen worse gouges from screwdrivers and chisle marks-
just pretend its your teeth your grindin on - and dont go through too deep- even if you do gouge it a lil it wont be junk- ive seen worse gouges from screwdrivers and chisle marks-
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