Here's the quick "10 Step Process to successful wheel bearing removal/installation" Step 1 -using a sharp single edge razor blade, carefully remove the rubber seals of the new bearings. Completely pack with a good quality waterproof grease. Reintall the rubber seals, and place the bearings in the freezer for 4-6 hours. The stainless steel race will decrease in size approximately 0.2 percent (.003 - .004") and make installation much easier. Step 2 - using a 1/2 " diameter wooden dowel and rubber mallet, tap the spacers out from the inside. Discard the old spacers. Remove old grease seals and discard. Step 3 - NOTE: REMOVE CIRCLIP FROM INSIDE HUB (On KTM - circlip is on sprocket side only) Use a heat gun and heat around the hub flange for 4-5 minutes. Use a 1/2" diameter brass drift or punch and push the hub inner spacer tube off to one side, to expose the backside of the bearing race. Now place the drift/punch on the backside of the bearing race and drive out. Repeat for other side. Step 4 - Remove bearing from freezer and apply a light coat of waterproof grease around the outer diameter of the race. Step 5 - Use heat gun and heat hub diameter for 4-5 minutes. Step 6 - Press bearings in by hand. Use a 1" diameter wooden dowel and rubber mallet to seat. Step 7 - VERY IMPORTANT - REINSTALL HUB INNER SPACER TUBE. Forgetting step 7 will lead to immediate bearing failure and possible hub damage. Step 8 - Repeat steps 5 & 6 for other side. Step 9 - Apply a light coat of grease around outer surface of new seals. Note: using old seals with new bearings in like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear back on. Push seals into place by hand. Step 10 - Using 1" wooden dowel, tap new spacers into place. Note: using old spacers is like taking shower, putting dirty underwear back on, then putting muddy moto pants over dirty underwear ! FINAL NOTE: Reinstall circlip ! Replacing the bearings, seals and spacers as a kit will ensure maximum life of all components. It pays to be "dollar smart" - and not "penny foolish"