Yes, it's a lot cheaper to get the bearing numbers either off the bearings or from your parts manual and take them to a bearing house. When you get the new ones, pop the seals off the bearings and pack them with waterproof grease and put the seals back on.
Replace your rear wheel spacers with WER or eRider at the same time. It'll save you money in the long run in much longer bearing wear.
Your parts manual has the bearing numbers (6005, if I remember right) and you can take those to a bearing supply house and get them for about half the price. Be sure to get double-sealed, and if you want to, remove one of the seals on each bearing and pack more grease. They come with a fairly small amount of grease because they're designed for much higher RPM's than what your wheel will ever see (I did the math one time and figured I would have to ride 180 mph to get to the upper RPM limit).
'99 KTM 300EXC
'93 Kawasaki KLX650-C
This skidding is an interesting concept which I have never heard of. I usually pack my bearings tight with grease. Does it make a difference if they skid or roll? It makes sense that a well oiled bearing could skid but it should only skid until it builds up enough rolling resistance or friction until it begins to roll.
[This message has been edited by gasman (edited 02-14-2001).]
I swear by CBR Bearings. They come double sealed and prepacked with waterproof grease. They also come with a LIFETIME GUARANTEE. They sell kits with bearings and seals for a reasonable price. I already had my rear bearings replaced once for free. They're friendly, knowledgeable, and a good company to deal with. http://gate.tfb.com/~cbr/
What part number will fit the KTM 200? Also, does the Lifetime Gar. cover wear and tear or just manufacturing errors? If they replace worn out bearings for free, then i think they just got a new customer.
gasman, The ball bearings can "skid" IF the grease is packed in AND you run at higher RPM. The speed we run the bikes at is NOT even close to this RPM so it is NOT a problem. No if you have a turbo....
Mike-200, They replaced mine for wear and tear. More specifically wear. I noticed that on their website I couldn't find any mention of the warranty. I'd give them a call to make sure they're still giving the guarantee. Maybe too many people already cashed in on it so they stopped it. I don't know but I'd say it's definitely worth a call.
I just put rear wheel bearings in my '98 300. I used the Erider.ws rear wheel bearing kit .
You get two hard anodized wheel spacers,
two seals, and two bearings for about $80 mailed right to your door for approx. $5 shipping.
Definetly worth it ! www.erider.ws
Here's the quick "10 Step Process to successful wheel bearing removal/installation" Step 1 -using a sharp single edge razor blade, carefully remove the rubber seals of the new bearings. Completely pack with a good quality waterproof grease. Reintall the rubber seals, and place the bearings in the freezer for 4-6 hours. The stainless steel race will decrease in size approximately 0.2 percent (.003 - .004") and make installation much easier. Step 2 - using a 1/2 " diameter wooden dowel and rubber mallet, tap the spacers out from the inside. Discard the old spacers. Remove old grease seals and discard. Step 3 - NOTE: REMOVE CIRCLIP FROM INSIDE HUB (On KTM - circlip is on sprocket side only) Use a heat gun and heat around the hub flange for 4-5 minutes. Use a 1/2" diameter brass drift or punch and push the hub inner spacer tube off to one side, to expose the backside of the bearing race. Now place the drift/punch on the backside of the bearing race and drive out. Repeat for other side. Step 4 - Remove bearing from freezer and apply a light coat of waterproof grease around the outer diameter of the race. Step 5 - Use heat gun and heat hub diameter for 4-5 minutes. Step 6 - Press bearings in by hand. Use a 1" diameter wooden dowel and rubber mallet to seat. Step 7 - VERY IMPORTANT - REINSTALL HUB INNER SPACER TUBE. Forgetting step 7 will lead to immediate bearing failure and possible hub damage. Step 8 - Repeat steps 5 & 6 for other side. Step 9 - Apply a light coat of grease around outer surface of new seals. Note: using old seals with new bearings in like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear back on. Push seals into place by hand. Step 10 - Using 1" wooden dowel, tap new spacers into place. Note: using old spacers is like taking shower, putting dirty underwear back on, then putting muddy moto pants over dirty underwear ! FINAL NOTE: Reinstall circlip ! Replacing the bearings, seals and spacers as a kit will ensure maximum life of all components. It pays to be "dollar smart" - and not "penny foolish"