Reed questions...Suggestions to mods

[DirtyJoe]

Im VERY new to dirtbikes and how to "beef" them up alittle. So Im sorry if these questions seem alittle bit of no brainers for you guys...


First question is about the Reeds. Ive been told to swap mine out for a "good" set. I dont fully understand Reeds 100%. What I understand or get out of them is they are like Valves in a 4 stroke. Either way, what can I expect from getting a good set of them, and is there a way to tell if mine are wore out?


I guess instead of a question, Ill tell you what I have, and what you guys think would be a good purchase to get some more power out of the bike...


Its a 96 KX 125.

Im running full synthetic trans oil.

Its got an aftermarket Clutch basket already (forgot the brand)

FMF Gold Series Fatty with matching silencer

Good plugs, heat range 8, NGK-R's

Fresh rebuild. Wiesco piston, standard size. Sleeved.


I know the bike has been re-jetted but I have no idea how big they went. Doesnt seem to be running to rich or lean, so I think its setup pretty good right now.


The bike, to me, seems to lack alittle power. I expected more out of it. Dont get me wrong, its very quick, but your not going to pop the front tire off the ground without dumping the clutch around the power band. Is this what I should expect out of a 125 (with a 180 pound rider)

 

[kingbrian]

The bike, to me, seems to lack alittle power. I expected more out of it. Dont get me wrong, its very quick, but your not going to pop the front tire off the ground without dumping the clutch around the power band. Is this what I should expect out of a 125 (with a 180 pound rider)

yes..... definitely..... you need a 250

 

[kta176]

If you new to dirtbikes I wouldn't waste money throwing aftermarket parts at your bike. Switching to a bigger bike too earlier can actually make you go slower, get comfortable on your bike and practice.

 

[KX250Dad]

Is this what I should expect out of a 125 (with a 180 pound rider)

You've got to understand power and where it's at before investing in the aftermarket stuff e.g., reeds. At 180#'s your "power" isn't there until 9000r's and up... once there your good to go. At 225#'s I can't ride a 125 as at low rpm's it bogs and I feather. When it does kick I sh*^ thus I ride the KX250 where it can lug me without being in the volatile zone. The 125 is meant to be ridden at top r's, practice feathering which will keep it there in turns so when you want the "power" on exit it's there, providing your in the right gear.

 

[rmc_olderthandirt]

Reeds are real easy to change but I bet you won't notice any difference, unless the reeds you have are obviously bad. They are called reeds because long ago they were made out of reed, a thin bamboo type material. Just like the reed in a Saxophone. And being made of wood they would dry out, crack and need replacing often.

Modern reeds are a synthetic material and can last forever. Serious racers might file them a little thinner so that they flex easier but you are talking about a tiny, tiny improvement, if any.

To inspect the reeds you need to pull the carburetor off, then the rubber boot between the carb and the engine, then the rectangular plate that the rubber boot attached to (it might be possible to leave the carb and boot attached, just remove the reed housing). With this plate will come the reed housing, a teepee shaped structure that has the reeds screwed down on the inside. If a reed is obviously broken then replace them. If the reeds lay flat against the housing then there isn't anything significantly wrong with them. If the reeds curl up so that they don't rest against the frame you can either replace them or simply turn them over.

Like the others said, I wouldn't try to soup up your 125. If popping wheelies is important to you then buy a 250.

 

[snb73]

Take your reed cage out and inspect. If the reeds are warped, chiped or not laying flat they need changing.

Combo reeds give the best of both worlds, good low end and top end performance.

http://www.motosport.com/offroad/productDetail.php?prodId=53258&nav=3&sMMY=

 

[snb73]

From Eric Gorr;

Reed Valve

Check the reed petals for open gaps between the sealing surfaces. In time, the reed petals lose their spring tension, and the back-flow can cause a flat-spot in the throttle response. Stock nylon reeds tend to split at the edges on bikes that are constantly over-revved. Expert riders find that carbon fiber reeds last much longer.

From Boyesens' web site;

http://www.pro-flo.com/proflo_boyesen_reeds.htm#POWER REEDS

 

[2 strokes for life]

Eric Gorr has the same user name as his really name Red Ryder.

 

[hot125mod]

stay away from a full synthetic in the crank case it can cause the clutch to slip