Replacing the lighting stator

[JCW]

Any suggestions or recommendations on a good option for raising my lighting capacity above the stock output? I would like to run dual front lights and a brake light on the rear.

 

[JasonWho]

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[canyncarvr]

The option you have is replacing your current (ha..thassa joke, son) lighting coil. (That's not a stator)

pik pik pik...

BTW, some just rewrap their oem core with attention to coil tightness to good effect.

 

[JCW]

Canyncarvr, you got me on this one. I've never worked with any electrical system, unless it was a 12 volt system with a battery. That's why I asked & I really appreciate the response. I'm into top ends, routine maintenance, and lessons from experience, obviously not lighting coils. While I creating a little laughter for everyone, I've got a good lead on halogen fluid, muffler bearings, and 12 ounce cans of compression if any has dim lights, squeaky mufflers, or weak motors. Let me know, they're going fast!!


Thanks again!

 

[JasonWho]

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[John Harris]

One possible suggestion is to use a LED tailight bulb which draws almost no current--that leaves more for your headlight program from the stock wiring. You get into lighting kits and expense is high unless you are wanting it for street or extensive night riding.

 

[canyncarvr]

The stator (by definition) is the stationary part about which a rotor turns.

The word used in motorcycle parlance refers to the assembly including the plate and coils (plural..both the ignition and the lighting coils) that is screwed onto the case.

The lighting coil on the 'H' model is the one on top of the assembly. It has a yellow wire going to the light switch on the handlebars.

As JW said, either FRP or electrex (or your local one-each bike shop) can fix you up with an increased output lighting coil. You'll need to attach (solder/crimp your choice) the electrex. Coils from rickystator.com usually come with the wire already attached to the upline connector, so no fussing with it required.

My LED taillight draws about .030 amps (30ma). An 1156 bulb will pull something like 1.5-2 amps.

BTW, when it comes to poking around with a meter, realize the kdx runs on AC, not DC.

I could use summa that halogen fluid. One of my lamps evidently has a leak, as it quit working.

Thanks!

You can probably send that to me via email??
;)

 

[JasonWho]

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[kx200]

check this site out

http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm

 

[kx200]

all you need to know about LED

http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/ledleft.htm

 

[JCW]

Thanks guys for all of the comments. I had a little fun and learned something. What a concept! Canyncarvr, per your request, I'll e-mail you two small bottles of "digitized" halogen fluid. When you download it, remember that type HFHB is for the high beam and HFLB is for the low beam (but I bet you know that???). Thanks again everybody and especially canyncarvr for the wiring lesson, as I obviously needed it. I'm going to work on a new lighting coil.

Keep up the good work everyone!

JCW

 

[JasonWho]

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[tedkxkdx]

The other day the dump truck delivered a load of jump ramp dirt.
I needed whoop dirt. Can I make whoops out of jump ramp dirt?
Also wondering if anyone makes a can of stiff air. I need some of that in my tires so they don't flatten on landing. Maybe I just need to change from winter air to summer air in the tires.

 

[G. Gearloose]

Yes, jasonwho, a red one works best. the lenses on the lamp will likely be clear, so beware. If you had a white LED, the cover will filter out all but the red anyway, just waisting your lumens.

My KDX is DC, but if CC says its OK on the OEM AC KDX, it must. :) After all, it is an leD. (diode), OK?

Hey BTW, I just tried a BR6XP unobtainium-laced split-tail p38 explosive space modulator plug and it made all my jetting problems disappear.. but I have to pull the choke to shut off the bike now :)

 

[John Harris]

R1156 red led tail light bulb available at auto zone and others at about $10 ea.

 

[canyncarvr]

The KDX taillight socket accepts an 1156 bulb.

I don't recall the name of my particular LED. I had to special order it from schucks. They had a number of LED 'replacements' on the shelf..but an 1156 wasn't one of 'em.

The base didn't fit. I had to file some on the retainer nubs to get it to lock into the socket.

I didn't notice any huge difference in headlight output with the 1156L ('L' for 'LED') taillight installed. There is one, though. You can't 'save' a couple of amps and not have it make a difference.

I don't know if there is rectification in the LED piece, or is just 'works' on the top half of the sine wave. It works. Not killer bright...but it works.

JCW: Thanks for the tip. No, I didn't realize it came in two versions. I thought it was just a matter of whether the fluid was added from the top or the bottom of the lens. Learn something every day I guess.

What's the electrode size on the onobtainium-laced plug? It's a fine-wire I presume?

Running winter air in summer tires will make your bike run rich. You must change it if you want to keep on any sort of performance 'edge'. If you don't mind a bit of spooge, don't worry about it.