Reuniting with the KDX family, looking at a 01 KDX220
- Thread starter denbsteph
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- Thread starter
- #102
I checked back with the local guy and it appears he may be dragging his feet on some parts and accessories. So tomorrow morning Bike Bandit will be getting a call for the Wiesco goodies, Pipe, Silencer and perhaps the gasket kit. The Boyesson 607 will be coming from the local dude, I'll get with him tomorrow.
I'm going to assume it would be wise to make sure I have a new "Donut" for the pipe?
Anyone out there using the Go Pro Helmet Cam???? Those are f***ing cool!!!!!!!!!
I'm going to assume it would be wise to make sure I have a new "Donut" for the pipe?
Anyone out there using the Go Pro Helmet Cam???? Those are f***ing cool!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #104
In my experience, I have been pretty pleased with Bike Bandit. The only time I have had issues with them is when "Brandon" told me that Michelin stopped making the Pilot Road 2 last year, dude was being a real douche. I called Michelin to confirm his story and he was completely wrong. I called BB back and spoke with "Melissa", customer service manager and she researched to double check that they were being produced and where she could get them from. I had a set of tires at the house four days later. I have been dealing with them for about five years now, I'm pleased.
Service Honda you say, guys on the CRF's only web site talks about them pretty highly as well.
The GO Pro, trying to talk the wife into getting me one for my Birthday. Convinced her that she can use it on her cruise next year. HA!!
julien_d :
Check the previous posts concerning the jetting question after the new piston installation, need some guidance, could not find any previous threads on the subject.
Service Honda you say, guys on the CRF's only web site talks about them pretty highly as well.
The GO Pro, trying to talk the wife into getting me one for my Birthday. Convinced her that she can use it on her cruise next year. HA!!
julien_d :
Check the previous posts concerning the jetting question after the new piston installation, need some guidance, could not find any previous threads on the subject.
- Thread starter
- #108
By running you mean, after break in of the new piston? Of course the motor is apart at the moment. I'm gonna get on the carb this morning, after I contact Bike Bandit. I have to get a new phillips just for the carb, the ones I have are 20 years old and a little beat up. Thanks again for the info!!
denbsteph said:By running you mean, after break in of the new piston? Of course the motor is apart at the moment. I'm gonna get on the carb this morning, after I contact Bike Bandit. I have to get a new phillips just for the carb, the ones I have are 20 years old and a little beat up. Thanks again for the info!!
most every tool I have I got back in 1985 :cool:
I could take my screwdrivers in and get new ones but that would involve the mall.
I hope the links/ seat work for you
I will spend the rainy day putting new rear brake shoes on the xt350 and grabbing some 800 grit wet dry paper and doing the next step on my warrior plastics then maybe mop-n-glow them
If you feel it was jetted pretty well before, I would use that during break in. I'm not familiar with the stock jetting on the 220, but I would hope you are somewhere near that right now. You will need to jet the bike thoroughly after break in is complete.
I know my bike, after a new piston seemed to smoke ALOT and it took a few rides to Break it in.. I'm still on the same plug from the rebuild, I could have used the original plug but I splurged.
Man crap is getting pricey... I just blew $51 on gas, $5 on smokes and $6.25 for 600 grit wet/dry paper!!!!
time to push the bikes and wheeler out of the garage and get to work!
Man crap is getting pricey... I just blew $51 on gas, $5 on smokes and $6.25 for 600 grit wet/dry paper!!!!
time to push the bikes and wheeler out of the garage and get to work!
- Thread starter
- #112
julien_d: Thanks for the insight, that's what I was thinking, but it's nice to have an opinion that confirms my thinking. It is a little jumpy in the lower RPM;s so I'm gonna say that is due to the air screw not adjusted properly as well as the Needle jet still at the factory specs. When I get her back together, I'll leave every thing as is. Get a good break in session on her then do as you suggested.
Should I put all the goodies on when I put the Weisco on or wait till after break in????????
I pulled the carb apart, not totally apart. 145 Main, 42 slow/pilot jet, Needle jet is on the third slot from the top. Cleaned slide guide inside the carb and the slide itself. Lots of junk on the inside of the slide, where the throttle cable attaches. The bowl looked surprising clean, I put a little carb cleaner in it and swished it around for a few minutes. Dumped it out wiped it clean. The jets, I sprayed some carb cleaner in them and some outer junk came right off. The slow jet appeared to be slightly clogged so I grabbed one of the the wife's gestational diabetic needles, it was just long enough to take care of whatever was in the way. Used a air compressor to take care of any dingle berries hanging around. The float looked good, no cracks. The little spring thing looked good as well, forgot the name of it. I think if I really get to messing with it, I may mess with the float height........don't want to do that just yet.
I ordered the Weisco piston kit, FMF Desert pipe, Power Core II, cylinder gasket kit and the Boyesons, should be here next Friday, but we will see.
I pulled the rear Wheel wheel off to get to the bearings, but unfortunately I don't have a bearing puller. So I ran my thumb inside the hub to feel the movement of the bearing. No grinding, scrapping nice and smooth so I stuffed some grease inside the plastic boot. I'll search the thread and see if anyone has a different way to get them out. Dennis
Should I put all the goodies on when I put the Weisco on or wait till after break in????????
I pulled the carb apart, not totally apart. 145 Main, 42 slow/pilot jet, Needle jet is on the third slot from the top. Cleaned slide guide inside the carb and the slide itself. Lots of junk on the inside of the slide, where the throttle cable attaches. The bowl looked surprising clean, I put a little carb cleaner in it and swished it around for a few minutes. Dumped it out wiped it clean. The jets, I sprayed some carb cleaner in them and some outer junk came right off. The slow jet appeared to be slightly clogged so I grabbed one of the the wife's gestational diabetic needles, it was just long enough to take care of whatever was in the way. Used a air compressor to take care of any dingle berries hanging around. The float looked good, no cracks. The little spring thing looked good as well, forgot the name of it. I think if I really get to messing with it, I may mess with the float height........don't want to do that just yet.
I ordered the Weisco piston kit, FMF Desert pipe, Power Core II, cylinder gasket kit and the Boyesons, should be here next Friday, but we will see.
I pulled the rear Wheel wheel off to get to the bearings, but unfortunately I don't have a bearing puller. So I ran my thumb inside the hub to feel the movement of the bearing. No grinding, scrapping nice and smooth so I stuffed some grease inside the plastic boot. I'll search the thread and see if anyone has a different way to get them out. Dennis
well one thing that pop out is the bearing puller...nope you just use a drift punch and a hammer but DON'T it sounds as if your rear wheel bearing are fine... in the future with wheel on bike and off the ground grab the tire and pull side to side any play would mean bearing time.
The carb cleaning process seems good to me ...you must have pulled the jets to find the numbers.... and they sound really familiar I do believe thats what is in mine...or maybee its a 148/ 42-- 2nd from top..???? too many bikes ma
if it were my bike I would put everything Back on original run it for 1-2 rides then put reeds in and run it up and down the field then add the pipe then start jetting to taste
read the little packet that comes with the reeds.. good stuff.. then look for an fmf recomendation from what I have red you should be pretty close right now
The carb cleaning process seems good to me ...you must have pulled the jets to find the numbers.... and they sound really familiar I do believe thats what is in mine...or maybee its a 148/ 42-- 2nd from top..???? too many bikes ma
if it were my bike I would put everything Back on original run it for 1-2 rides then put reeds in and run it up and down the field then add the pipe then start jetting to taste
read the little packet that comes with the reeds.. good stuff.. then look for an fmf recomendation from what I have red you should be pretty close right now
Bill is probably right, add the add on's after breakin. I wouldn't though. Pipe and everything is off, I'd go ahead and put the new stuff on. Maybe me just being lazy and not wanting to tear it down twice, but I can't see the hurt in putting everything you've got on it, breaking it in, and then jetting it. You're current jetting looks perfectly safe for break in. What mix you plan on running?
With that mess on the slide, I'd pull the filter and carb out and make sure the airbox and boot is cleaned spotless. Clean the filter and re-install or replace with a new one. That junk got in there somewhere, and the airboot is the most likely source. I wouldn't want to risk trashing a new top end.
With that mess on the slide, I'd pull the filter and carb out and make sure the airbox and boot is cleaned spotless. Clean the filter and re-install or replace with a new one. That junk got in there somewhere, and the airboot is the most likely source. I wouldn't want to risk trashing a new top end.
- Thread starter
- #116
julien_d and sr5bidder:
Today I pulled the rear wheel off of course and checked the bearings, pack them with green grease. I then pulled the swing arm off. The bearings that attach to the motor appeared to be in good shape, you can tell they were worn some, but were still in tact, meaning the were not shifting from side to side and had some good tread left on them, still fairly stiff, but not loose. The lower bearing, that connects to the lowering link was in great shape, used but not worn and still had that new "stiff" but movable feeling to it. Cleaned them up with a toothbrush, pulled a clean rag thru them and grease them with green grease.
If I was thinking I would of pulled the chain off while I had the swing arm off but spaced off badly. So I decided to go ahead and pull the master link off and clean the chain. The chain was not taken care of at all. Who ever thought of throwing lube on top of lube on top of lube and thought this was lubing must of been smoking purple cush for the past 10 years!!. So I decided to take the master link off.......yea right. Of all the things I have done in the past two weeks, this was a major pain. I got the keeper off but could not get the link off to save my life. So I decided to put the keeper back on............nope would not go on. Needless to say I tweaked the keeper and in need of another one.
Yep I pulled the jets out and found the numbers. As far as the airbox goes, I took it off the bike two weeks ago, cleaned it with hot soapy water and a scratch pad. Clean as a whistle now. When I bought the bike, it had a K&N filter on it, that filter now hangs on one of the walls. The Uni-Filter has taken it's place.
As far as mix, Yamalube 2 r, 32:1, like the manual says. During break in what should the ratio mix be? I heard that Maxim has good premix, but the Yamalube is just as good. Bel-Ray was the stuff in the day, but I have been reading that some riders have had gumming issues, gotta love the smell of Bel-Ray!
Today I pulled the rear wheel off of course and checked the bearings, pack them with green grease. I then pulled the swing arm off. The bearings that attach to the motor appeared to be in good shape, you can tell they were worn some, but were still in tact, meaning the were not shifting from side to side and had some good tread left on them, still fairly stiff, but not loose. The lower bearing, that connects to the lowering link was in great shape, used but not worn and still had that new "stiff" but movable feeling to it. Cleaned them up with a toothbrush, pulled a clean rag thru them and grease them with green grease.
If I was thinking I would of pulled the chain off while I had the swing arm off but spaced off badly. So I decided to go ahead and pull the master link off and clean the chain. The chain was not taken care of at all. Who ever thought of throwing lube on top of lube on top of lube and thought this was lubing must of been smoking purple cush for the past 10 years!!. So I decided to take the master link off.......yea right. Of all the things I have done in the past two weeks, this was a major pain. I got the keeper off but could not get the link off to save my life. So I decided to put the keeper back on............nope would not go on. Needless to say I tweaked the keeper and in need of another one.
Yep I pulled the jets out and found the numbers. As far as the airbox goes, I took it off the bike two weeks ago, cleaned it with hot soapy water and a scratch pad. Clean as a whistle now. When I bought the bike, it had a K&N filter on it, that filter now hangs on one of the walls. The Uni-Filter has taken it's place.
As far as mix, Yamalube 2 r, 32:1, like the manual says. During break in what should the ratio mix be? I heard that Maxim has good premix, but the Yamalube is just as good. Bel-Ray was the stuff in the day, but I have been reading that some riders have had gumming issues, gotta love the smell of Bel-Ray!
I think stock on the 220 is 42 pilot, 145 main, and the clip in the middle position. Kawasaki recommends 32:1. I run a 42 pilot, 148 main, and just moved the needle to the 4th position from the top to richen up the mid range. I run Motul at 32:1..although I am experimenting tweaking the mixture slightly, 34:1 for example, and the effect on performance. Ive only ridden down the alley a few times, but it seems to pull harder with the drop in clip position. Of course, your setup depends on elevation, mods, etc.
denbsteph said:julien_d and sr5bidder:
If I was thinking I would of pulled the chain off while I had the swing arm off but spaced off badly. So I decided to go ahead and pull the master link off and clean the chain. The chain was not taken care of at all. Who ever thought of throwing lube on top of lube on top of lube and thought this was lubing must of been smoking purple cush for the past 10 years!!. So I decided to take the master link off.......yea right. Of all the things I have done in the past two weeks, this was a major pain. I got the keeper off but could not get the link off to save my life. So I decided to put the keeper back on............nope would not go on. Needless to say I tweaked the keeper and in need of another one.
!
the chain is an o-ring chain if it is stock, usually a grundge buster chain cleaning tool will get the crud down to a point where you can add the lude to the chain and not the crud.
beings that is an oring chain, it take a little work to get the side plate off after removing the clip.. I use two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the plate and work it off in a striaght manor (meaning that one side of the plate gets no further ahead of the other side) as to not bind it on the pins.
I use the next plate beside the one I am trying to remove as leverage and found it best to have the link positioned on the rear sprocket for added stability.
I had a can of belray chain lube $14.99 and when it ran out I bought a can of Champion chain lube for $5 and it seems to do its job..
after all it only has to last about a month on the stand and 4-6hrs of riding then it gets refreshed after 4-6hrs of cleaning the next day :cool: (2 bikes)
ohh I almost forgot when reinstalling the side plate I have a small c-clamp with a good sized divit in the spinny cup thingy and I position that divit on top off where the pin is and clamp down alternating sides till there is clearance for the clip to go on
- Thread starter
- #125
jb_dallas: That's a good point!
Maybe I should explain what I meant by " not taken care". The rollers on the chain are in good shape, the chain itself will "kink" and remain in that position as long as it is left there. I was hoping to get the chain off and soak it in kerosene for about thirty minutes then go to town on her. Clean thoroughly, wash in soapy warm water and give her the oil treatment.
I can get another riding season out the chain and sprockets, but the kinking has me concerned. I'm gonna look at the RM ATV site and see whats going on.
sr5bidder: I have doused that keeper and link with PB Blaster but the link is a bear. I'll give the link another run for its money tomorrow. Thanks for the info, I'll follow your method and see what happens.
sr5bidder:
What does this mean? "ohh I almost forgot when reinstalling the side plate I have a small c-clamp with a good sized divit in the spinny cup thingy and I position that divit on top off where the pin is and clamp down alternating sides till there is clearance for the clip to go on"
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Maybe I should explain what I meant by " not taken care". The rollers on the chain are in good shape, the chain itself will "kink" and remain in that position as long as it is left there. I was hoping to get the chain off and soak it in kerosene for about thirty minutes then go to town on her. Clean thoroughly, wash in soapy warm water and give her the oil treatment.
I can get another riding season out the chain and sprockets, but the kinking has me concerned. I'm gonna look at the RM ATV site and see whats going on.
sr5bidder: I have doused that keeper and link with PB Blaster but the link is a bear. I'll give the link another run for its money tomorrow. Thanks for the info, I'll follow your method and see what happens.
sr5bidder:
What does this mean? "ohh I almost forgot when reinstalling the side plate I have a small c-clamp with a good sized divit in the spinny cup thingy and I position that divit on top off where the pin is and clamp down alternating sides till there is clearance for the clip to go on"
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