revalve

[overbore]

I am in the process of putting gold valves in a 2001
rm250 for my son that weight is 165 with street clothes.
I have a couple of questions not ever doing these before.
1.I have read on this forum trying to learn ahead of time
and still do not understand on whether I mess with the
midvalve at all on the forks setting it up for harescrambles?
2.Do I set it up for what race tech tells me as I have been
told that it usually is off a bit to get the best ride for plushness?
The stock springs for forks and shock look to be real close
for his weight so I will try them with just the other coversion I guess.I wish I understood all this lift and other language that I read but I dont.
Thanks overbore.

 

[JTT]

I'm no expert on RT stuff, so I'll leave your specific questions to those who are more experienced with them.

When you have the fork apart, have a close look at the workings and try to trace the fluid paths. Then come on here, with the parts in front of you, and try to sort out the various terminology used around here. If you have any questions, ask away. I know for me, it makes alot more sense when I have the physical peice in front of me and can actually see and touch it.

"Lift" will become apparent when you have the midvalve in your hand. You'll notice on the compression side there is a shim stack, but it is supported on a small spring. You'll be able to carefully lift the entire stack slightly off the piston face but compressing the spring....that's "lift".

 

[michigan]

My 01 kx500 got the full Race-Tech revalve and respring for offroad, and we removed the midvalve per Race-Tech recommendations. If I remember correctly, Race-Tech only recommends leaving the midvalve in for aggressive track riding.
Also, (and others may disagree) I would advise to do exactly what RT recommends and then deviate from that setting only if necessary.
I was very pleased with my setup on the first try.

 

[overbore]

I will look at it tonight again so it makes since while still waiting on the parts for the shock and
forks.So replacing or taking out the valving and just leaving a check valve has no problem with
bottoming out or making the suspension to soft?I guess maybe the video that comes with it will
clear somethings up in my mind,but just looking at it seems like the midvalve is like a shock
valving in itself with the additional compression assembly for the passive dampning and the midvalve
for all the active dampning for compession and rebound,or is this wrong?
Thanks for any and all responses.
Jtt you helped me alot last year when I did my first compression assembly explaining how the flow
went,but being a novice I didnt even know that you where supposed to do anything to the midvalves,but want to make sure this is the best for my son so he can really enjoy the bike.
Thanks overbore.

 

[overbore]

should I

gosh after reading some on other links now I am wondering
even if I am doing the right thing with the gold valves,as I have read now that there out of date and you shouldnt even order them although I already have.now I not only dont know about the midvalve and what to do,but also should I proceed with them at all before its to late.I already have everything on the shock and forks apart waiting on the stuff to arrive.
help.any suggestions on any of the above is appreciated.
overbore

 

[overbore]

Thanks for the responses

please dont give up here as I need help understanding
the midvalve and the what changes when the comp
side becomes a check.I received the gold valves so I
guess I will find out how good they are and have plenty
of parts to change if I dont like the original stacks,ect.
Still dont understand how the fluid gets back in the cartridge
when its on the rebound after going thru the base valve.
Does the fluid go out into the outside tube and come back
thru a different port ?
Any help appreciated.

 

[JTT]

Overbore, don't worry we haven't given up on you yet ;)

As I said, I'm no expert on RT stuff, but the concensius, from my understanding, is that most seem to keep the midvalve in tact for MX application, and use the check valve (RT system) for woods use. This is not carved in stone or anything, and I'm sure there are lots of variations out there that work fine. I also wouldn't worry about the GV being "out of date", as I'm sure they will work far better than your present setup and give you a great opportunity to learn how things work and tune yourself ...kind of the "teach a man to fish" deal. Sure, offshore trawling is more modern, but somehow just isn't the same :)

As far are the fluid movement in rebound, there is a rebound portion of the basevalve in most forks. The fluid is moved through this and also through the damper rod. In fact fluid flows both ways through the damper rod (comp and reb).

Removing the midvalve shims (repaced with checkplate) will effectively make the fork softer, particularly at midstroke...or at least that's my understanding, as I've never removed one myself. I know from tuning them, that it seems to effect this portion of the travel and the "feel" when entering turns. Stiffer gives more feedback, but can also result in a harsh feeling at the bars.

This is why I think alot or woods guys like the checkplate better as it's an easy and quick way to get response on the roots and rocks they deal with daily.

 

[overbore]

Thanks JTT

Just finished them tonight and it was time consuming,
but not bad.I had a friend that installed them quite abit
help on some stuff over the phone.I still have to assume
that the flow of oil thru both compression valves return thru
the check on the base and the rebound on the midvalve,
with some probably being left in the outside fork.Am I
right on thinking that, or am I washed up?
Like I said before thanks for your time Jtt.
overbore.

 

[JTT]

Sounds to me like your on the right track overbore.