seat height

Comfort: Could it get any worse? :eek:

Graphics: Yup, it will mess with them. The lower portion will be tucked up under the seat. :(

Consider koubalinks.

You get:
1. Lowered seat height.
2. Improved rear 'feel' due to º change of the applied lever.
3. You can change it back in a few minutes.
4. You keep the cush of your seat.

http://www.koubalink.com/kdxspring.html

Available in different 'models' depending on how far you want to drop it.

Don't forget to check your sag after install.
Balance the front end by raising the forks in the clamps.

Keep in mind that a longer pull rod will have the effect of making your shock spring 'softer' due to the º change. Info on this is on the kouba site. Will effect you only if you're on the 'edge' of the 5.0kg/mm spring that's probably in your bike now.

Devol makes a set of pull rods, too. They are adjustable by placement of an off-center drilled hexagonal insert in the rod. You only have one 'longer' choice, though, and that gives you about 3/8" lower seat height. The devol units REQUIRE KX250 bolts and shims. Those pieces do NOT come with the devol links. The devol links sure are purty!!

Your bike shouldn't be 'comfortable' from the standpoint of reaching the ground anyway. Your feet are supposed to stay on the pegs.

I know of which you speak! I'm short myself...AND have short laigs to boot! Thought I'd never get a handle on my sky-high kdx seat.

And, yeah..I can still fall over pretty good when there's too much air under my searching-for-ground foot.

re: 'start the darn thing'. You might consider getting a shorter kicker. I put an FRP on mine. Quite a bit easier to reach it at the bottom of its swing.

Have fun!!

The worst part of a seat foam modification is that it doesn't help getting your leg over a full rear fender tool bag. I've worked on improving my quick comedic come backs when I try to stop on a rock strewn hill, can't touch the ground, and fall over like the guy on the tricycle on Laugh In. Swinging your leg over the saddle, getting hung up on the tool bag, and crashing before you even start the bike is also a great source of entertainment for the whole gang.... well maybe not EVERYBODY :silly:

Originally posted by canyncarvr
re: 'start the darn thing'. You might consider getting a shorter kicker. I put an FRP on mine. Quite a bit easier to reach it at the bottom of its swing.

Have fun!!

Click to expand...

Huh? On the kdx site (I think) it mentions that the shorter kickers not advised for shorter folk. On this understanding when I replaced mine, I went with a stock one instead of the 89 125 one. Is this not true then? I couldn't afford to try it out at $200 and have always wondered about it (also having the same discussion on another board about a WR).

Dapper, ya get used to looking for someone to climb on the bike comfortably and I'd rather do that than dump the thing - more energy wasted picking it than moving it a couple of inches.

Oh, another thing to consider (haha DT, bet ya to it hehe) - is getting another sole on your boot. No, I haven't bothered, I'm thinking stilletos would be a better height for me, but it is another option.

I don't know how much seat foam costs over there, but the beauty of the links is the fact you can change it back to stock in a few minutes. (handy when you're selling it or letting the tall half ride it for longer than a test ride to see if you're imagining something or not).

But CC, please do fill me in about the kicker. Oh & Jim, I take the fender bag into account (I sometimes carry a camera in it) when I'm climbing onboard hehehehe (but then I've been known to crash a YZ80 climbing onboard before even starting it lol - but I blame lack of coordination on that one)

Michelle:
I just searched CDave's tech tip on the 'hybrid lever' for 'short' and 'leg'. Got a hit only on the 'short' part.....and that is a reference to the lever.

I didn't do any research on shorter levers and how they work with short laigged peeples. I got an FRP lever (on a new knuckle) mainly due to the oem lever/knuckle being worn out. I didn't want to be out in the middle of nowhere and THEN find it missing. I replaced the bent, floppy thing with something that hopefully will have a longer lifespan.

Hence, my comment comes only from my experience with my FRP lever..not reading what learned persons say about it. It being shorter DOES make it further away from your leg at the top of the stroke. If your bike is in any sort of decent tune, it doesn't take a full stroke to start it, in which case a longer lever (starting higher) might work better for you.

If you tend to kick it all the way down whether it's needed or not, you end up inches (50mm ..sorry;) ) higher at the bottom of the stroke..which might work better for you.

I wear asterisks every time I ride. Although they are great braces, by the time they're strapped up, with a pair of fox 360º pants and boots, the less I have to raise my leg to catch the kicker in the first place, the better.

The short lever takes a bit of getting used to stroke-wise. With the oem lever you have plenty of room for your boot underneath the foot peg (on top of the lever). With the short lever it's not hard to jam your foot smack into the footpeg. You have to get used to angling your foot a bit..maybe kicking with the ball of your foot vs: your instep.

At least you CAN use the ball of your foot, cuz the short kicker isn't sticking out at a wonky º just begging to make your boot slip off the thing.

re: fat ankles. Ha! That's funny.

If you are vertically challenged, you have to get rid of the fender bag. It is just too high to get your leg over when you are tired! I have tried several solutions to carrying tools, spares, and things and one I like best, but that is another thread I guess. And if you are a woods rider, you have to be able to start it on level ground at least.