shock pressure on kdx200
- Thread starter overbore
- Start date
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
Mine is 165#. Didn't do it myself.
Nothing is 'hard' if you know how to do it.
If you have or have access to the pressurization/regulation device(s) for nitrogen required, that's a good start. I don't.
Last time mine was done (last spring) the tuner that did it used some hot-rod oehlin product as I recall.
There are tricks/tips to the process. Watching someone that knows those is a good place to start, too. Might as well get it revalved then, too.
Then next time do it yourself armed with the observations you made previously.......and you won't have to mess with the valving.
Assuming it worked in the first place!
Nothing is 'hard' if you know how to do it.
If you have or have access to the pressurization/regulation device(s) for nitrogen required, that's a good start. I don't.
Last time mine was done (last spring) the tuner that did it used some hot-rod oehlin product as I recall.
There are tricks/tips to the process. Watching someone that knows those is a good place to start, too. Might as well get it revalved then, too.
Then next time do it yourself armed with the observations you made previously.......and you won't have to mess with the valving.
Assuming it worked in the first place!
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks ,and yes I have access to nitrogen with regulater but had heard also that sometime it hard to get all the air back out but think that I will try to service.What do I have to loose other than having someone do it and charge me what it would have charged anyway.
Overbore, It is not that tough of a job. I was scared to try mine, but did anyway. If you go to this site you can print a set of instructions on how to change the oil . I spent about 1 1/2 hours the first time. Next time, probably 1 hour max.
http://dirtrider.net/motosource/mxtech/mx-tech.html
http://dirtrider.net/motosource/mxtech/mx-tech.html
BadgerMan
Mi. Trail Riders
- Jan 1, 2001
- 2,479
- 10
The KDX shock is actually pretty easy to bleed since it has a bleeder bolt on the top of the shock body. Mobil 1 synthetic ATF works great and anywhere from 140 to 180psi will suffice for the nitrogen charge. The shop manual that I had for my '90 KDX gave really good instructions for disassembling the shock. I have not done my son's new KDX yet but I am assuming they are similar.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
re: 'what do I have to lose...'
A scored bore or damaged shaft. Shock replacement cost around $500 last I looked.
Not likely with an oil change (leaving the hydraulic unit togther).
Still...a good time to revalve it.
BTW...might check the link. Don't think it's going where you want it to...it's just the mx-tech ad that's on the left of this thread.
A scored bore or damaged shaft. Shock replacement cost around $500 last I looked.
Not likely with an oil change (leaving the hydraulic unit togther).
Still...a good time to revalve it.
BTW...might check the link. Don't think it's going where you want it to...it's just the mx-tech ad that's on the left of this thread.
Last edited:
Canadian Dave
Super Power AssClown
- Apr 28, 1999
- 1,202
- 0
Bleeding the air from the shock won't be a problem. I’d recommend you build yourself a bleeding tool to make the job easier, in fact almost fool proof. You’ll need to find an allen bolt with the same thread as the bleeder bolt and about the same length. Carefully drill a hole through the center of the bolt so you have a hole running from the cap where the wrench is inserted through to the end of bolt. Place a small o-ring on the shaft of the bolt so you can get a good seal when you thread it into the shock without having to over tighten it. On the end of the bolt you’ll need to install a length of rubber hose with an appropriate i.d. to fit snuggly over the end. You might consider using a small hose clamp or a quick tie to help ensure the hose doesn’t easily slip off the bolt. Then you’ll install a small funnel on the other end of the hose. Ideally you might be able to find a funnel that will fit snuggly over the bolt so the whole thing is rigid and not apt to tip and spill.
When you reassemble the shock fill it with enough oil that it spills out as you install the bladder (1st). Do the same when you install the piston/shaft (2nd). Once you have the shock reassembled apply a small amount of nitrogen to the bladder, maybe 5psi. Pump the shock a few times, (be sure to fully open the rebound and compression clickers so the oil flows as freely as possible). The final time leaving the shaft fully extended. Clamp the top of the shock in your vise. You’ll want to gently clamp it on the round steal surface where the upper bolt passes through the shock, never on the aluminum body of the shock. If you have a particular gnarly vice you should consider placing a small piece of wood, plastic, brass etc between the jaws of the vise so you don’t damage the shock. Position the shock in such a way that the bleeder hole is facing up. Remove the bleeder bolt and install your tool. When you remove the bolt some oil is going to spit out so be prepared. Fill the funnel about ½ full with oil and pump the shock. As you pump the shock you’ll see small air bubbles being expelled from the shock. Keep pumping until you no longer see bubbles. Often this will take 5 or 10 minutes. Once you’re satisfied that all the air is out fully extend the shaft and reinstall the bleeder bolt. You can test the shock to see if all the air is out by pumping the shaft in and out a couple times and listen for a gurgling sound (shock fart) near the end of the stroke. If you can hear it then you’ll need to rebleed the shock. Once you are satisfied the shock is properly bled charge the bladder with nitrogen. Completely compress the shaft and apply the nitrogen. The shaft should start to move out of the shock body all most as soon as the nitrogen is applied if all the air has been bled.
I’d highly recommend you pick up Eric Gorr’s suspension service video if you plan on servicing your own suspension. It gives you a step by step explanation of the whole process and is well worth the money.
Be sure to note the location of each circlip. One is gold and the other black. They must be reinstalled in the same location they were removed.
Before you reassemble the shock lubricate the lip of the bladder and clean and lubricate the shaft seal. I’m sure someone like MX-Tech will carry shock grease if not I know White Brother carries it.
Be sure to follow the instructions and warning outlined in your shop manual.
Hope that helps,
David
When you reassemble the shock fill it with enough oil that it spills out as you install the bladder (1st). Do the same when you install the piston/shaft (2nd). Once you have the shock reassembled apply a small amount of nitrogen to the bladder, maybe 5psi. Pump the shock a few times, (be sure to fully open the rebound and compression clickers so the oil flows as freely as possible). The final time leaving the shaft fully extended. Clamp the top of the shock in your vise. You’ll want to gently clamp it on the round steal surface where the upper bolt passes through the shock, never on the aluminum body of the shock. If you have a particular gnarly vice you should consider placing a small piece of wood, plastic, brass etc between the jaws of the vise so you don’t damage the shock. Position the shock in such a way that the bleeder hole is facing up. Remove the bleeder bolt and install your tool. When you remove the bolt some oil is going to spit out so be prepared. Fill the funnel about ½ full with oil and pump the shock. As you pump the shock you’ll see small air bubbles being expelled from the shock. Keep pumping until you no longer see bubbles. Often this will take 5 or 10 minutes. Once you’re satisfied that all the air is out fully extend the shaft and reinstall the bleeder bolt. You can test the shock to see if all the air is out by pumping the shaft in and out a couple times and listen for a gurgling sound (shock fart) near the end of the stroke. If you can hear it then you’ll need to rebleed the shock. Once you are satisfied the shock is properly bled charge the bladder with nitrogen. Completely compress the shaft and apply the nitrogen. The shaft should start to move out of the shock body all most as soon as the nitrogen is applied if all the air has been bled.
I’d highly recommend you pick up Eric Gorr’s suspension service video if you plan on servicing your own suspension. It gives you a step by step explanation of the whole process and is well worth the money.
Be sure to note the location of each circlip. One is gold and the other black. They must be reinstalled in the same location they were removed.
Before you reassemble the shock lubricate the lip of the bladder and clean and lubricate the shaft seal. I’m sure someone like MX-Tech will carry shock grease if not I know White Brother carries it.
Be sure to follow the instructions and warning outlined in your shop manual.
Hope that helps,
David
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
re: Your original question...'how much?'
From mx-tech: http://www.mx-tech.com/articleread.asp?ArticleID=26
Reading the series may be of interest to you.
From mx-tech: http://www.mx-tech.com/articleread.asp?ArticleID=26
Reading the series may be of interest to you.
