silencer rivets question... change to screws??

sick 96 250 · Jan 14, 2005

I have a pro circuit silencer on my bike and want to change the packing in it. i have changed the silencer packing on several other bikes but this one has the pop rivets in the end of it. After i drill these out do i need to put new rivets in or can i just get a small screw that will tighten in there and not have to worry about problems?

Gibby · Jan 14, 2005

You'll have to re- rivit them.

rikhek · Jan 14, 2005

I suggest you don't re-rivet. I've done that before and the rivets don't last but a ride or two. I used steel and aluminum, both with poor results. Also couldn't get replacement rivets which had a large enough diameter and I tried everywhere. It was a pain in the ass.

To solve the problem and make it easier to repack in the future I JB Welded some small nuts on the inside and used bolts. Problem solved.

Rick

biglou · Jan 15, 2005

I've never had a problem re-riveting an end cap. Never had rivets fall out, either. You can get a decent rivet gun with an assortment of rivets for a few bucks at any automotive store, wal-mart, etc. If you were going to switch to screws, I'd measure the hole and just tap it with a fine thread tap and use some loctite and some 1/4" long button-head allen screws. Be sure to tap it with a fine thread if you go this route.

Gibby · Jan 15, 2005

I've never had any problem with rivits falling out or not finding the right size either. If you can weld the best bet would be to weld nuts inside if you wanted to bolt them in.The only complaint I have on rivets is drilling them out, just takes longer.

soulmate33 · Jan 15, 2005

I have a FMF Powercore 2 silencer for my '02 CR250.
The rear of the can has rivets.........but the front of the can has 3 allen screws. GO FIGURE !!!!!! :bang: :coocoo:

sick 96 250 · Jan 16, 2005

soulmate33 said:
I have a FMF Powercore 2 silencer for my '02 CR250.
The rear of the can has rivets.........but the front of the can has 3 allen screws. GO FIGURE !!!!!! :bang: :coocoo:

thats how my procircuit silencer is also, doesn't make sense

biglou · Jan 16, 2005

It's easier to slide the cannister over the wrapped inner core than it to try to stuff packing into the end of a cannister with a core running down the center of it, IMO.

I've got a silencer packing tutorial on here somewhere, I'll see if I can find it.

biglou · Jan 16, 2005

Here it is: http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?t=51563&referrerid=19516

Chili · Jan 16, 2005

Unless I'm misreading something in this post I think your trying to remove the wrong end of the can. I always just remove the silencer from the bike, take the screws off at the front of the can and it slides right off the core. Repack and put the can back on, then re-install silencer.

rickyd · Jan 16, 2005

sick 96 250 said:
thats how my procircuit silencer is also, doesn't make sense

Remove the screws and slide off the cannister, you may need too use a soft blow hammer (Rubber mallet) WHen re-installing, i use a little bit of hi temp silicone around the lip where the 3 screws install..
Hope this hlps you out,
Rick

sick 96 250 · Jan 16, 2005

i took out the allen screws and tried to slide the piece out but the rivets are holding it in, I am just going to drill the rivets out then replace them since that seems easiest

Gibby · Jan 18, 2005

sick 96 250 said:
i took out the allen screws and tried to slide the piece out but the rivets are holding it in, I am just going to drill the rivets out then replace them since that seems easiest

Those rivets are just holding your endcap on. :cool:

mthummer · Jan 19, 2005

Rivets for exhaust packing canister

A quick note:

Standard OEM rivets are monel a nickel / copper alloy which has a much higher melting point and an elevated plastic deformation point. The monel rivets sell for about 2.50 a piece and are only available as OEM/Dealer or if you wish to special order from a fastener supply house you could probably order 1,000 at 1.50 a piece.

The end cap is not subjected to the higher temperatures that exist at the header/canister transition and standard aluminum rivets will suffice.

Key points:
Blind rivets are available with a closed end to prevent gas blow-by between the mandrel and body and a box of 250 can be purchased from most industrial supply houses for under 35$.

Stainless body rivets are also available but for the hole dimensions a body dia. of 0.375" would require an enormous amount of tension to set the mandrel and is not an option unless a pneumatic blind rivet set tool is available.

Stay away from galvanized anything on an aluminum canister. The byproducts of combustion will accelerate a galvanic reaction between the zinc plating on the fastener and the aluminum.

Just my 2 cents - well about 100$ the amount I spent on bulk aluminum rivets and monel rivets.

Regards,

Mike H.

sick 96 250 · Jan 19, 2005

Gibby said:
Those rivets are just holding your endcap on. :cool:

So i should be able to pull the core out, if thats the case i'll just yank harder

Studboy · Jan 19, 2005

Wait a minute, on some silencers the core is welded to the inlet end!

darnjr · Jan 19, 2005

Don't take off the end cap and don't bang on it. Take out the 3 screws on the pipe end, hold the pipe, and bang the silencer really hard on something. Just kidding. Tap it on something near the end cap to work it loose. the whole core comes out. I put the core in a vise and fire it up with a torch to burn up the carbon deposits that clog up all the little holes. When the carbon burns up you can just take a wire brush to it and the carbon falls off.

silencer rivets question... change to screws??

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