Steering stem dissasembly???

Kawierider

Member
Jun 7, 2001
281
0
hey guys...doing some dissasembly before I sandblast my frame. I am completely done however, I cannot remove the "adjsut nut". The manuel says to use a drift pin and hammer...thats it. Can someone explain to me how it comes off?
does it thread off?
Is it a press fit?
anything else that would help would be great!!
Thanks Guys
Tim
by the way its an 85 kdx240
 

fatty_k

~SPONSOR~
Jul 3, 2001
1,274
0
Yes it is threaded on. You shouldn't need much force to get this off. I use a pair of channel lock pliers for this.
 

Tom Ludolff

Member
Oct 3, 2002
250
0
Drift and hammer did it for me. It should not be very tight. You just put the drift in one of the notches at a 45 degree angle and tap it.
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
You're going to think this snotty....still...

How is it that you can take everything off your bike to the purpose of sandblasting the frame (that's quite a lot of stuff), but fail to observe the threads holding ON the spanner nut thus being able to deduce that it's threaded on? Beside application of any general mechanical 'put-together' know-how.

No, I'm not giving you grief. It's more a matter of commendation that, considering your question, you would have the temerity to tackle such a task. You know....chutzpah!

Good luck.
 

Kawierider

Member
Jun 7, 2001
281
0
Canyncarvor,

The threads are not visible with the nut on. I was under the impression that the stem was press-fitted in. (bad advice from a buddy).
Also, this was obviously the first time the bike was apart this far. ( i jsut bought it last summer) There was very little grease in any of the bearings and the nut was corroded in place.
by the way....im not taking it apart just to powdercoat the frame, im also doing all the bearings and refreshing the lower rod bearing and replacing the 240 piston it has.
by the end of the summer it will be better than new.
Forgive my ignorance, I have never in my 3yrs riding had to pull apart my steering stem. Although I now realize that on my old ts i should have long ago.
Tim
 

bscottr

LIFETIME SPONSOR
Sep 20, 2001
1,255
0
You did the right thing by asking the question Kawierider. Better safe than sorry. Good on ya. :thumb:


Everytime you play in a different sand box you gotta watch for cat poop. May get some on ya. :cool:
 

fatty_k

~SPONSOR~
Jul 3, 2001
1,274
0
Originally posted by bscottr
Everytime you play in a different sand box you gotta watch for cat poop. May get some on ya. :cool:

LOL!! :laugh: :laugh:
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
re: stem pressed in

It is...through the bottom clamp. Saying, 'The stem is pressed in,' is a correct statement.

Again, I commend your attitude, obviously a 'Can do!' point of view. Everyone is ignorant about most everything. The person that's ahead of the game is one that realizes he doesn't know it all and is willing even anxious to learn something.

When it comes time to put your steering stem back in (new bearings and all), if you aren't familiar with a tapered roller bearing install (they're all somewhat similar), search this site for some how-to. Proper installation is critical for proper operation and bearing longevity.

Cheers!
 

KDX'r in IN

~SPONSOR~
May 26, 2001
111
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Ask these guys anything. There is a vast amount of knowledge here.
I think I just gave ya'll a pat on the back......
 

Kawierider

Member
Jun 7, 2001
281
0
Thanks guys,

I beleive that i know what im doing. Im assuming it is like the wheel bearings in a car. Tighten, then back off to just above finger tight.......The manual seems to agree......thanks guys
Tim
 

canyncarvr

~SPONSOR~
Oct 14, 1999
4,005
0
Yep..like tapered rollers in a car wheel bearing.

The torque spec on the 'tighten' part is pretty stiff...30-something I recall. I've not found a socket or other device that fits on a torque wrench that will allow straightforward measurement of this fastener. I've not used the spanner wrench/spring gauge method. A spanner with a slot cut in it or square ratchet adapter welded to it would allow fixation of a torque wrench and as long as you kept 90º between the two tools you wouldn't need to figure in any torque value modifications.

In any case, rotate the stem back and forth on install just as you would spin a wheel in the car bearing scenario during the seating process.

Don't use one-each general purpose moly-di-sul chassis lube. It won't stand up. Get the best waterproof (marine application probably) grease you can find.
 
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