I had read a couple of posts on this forum earlier on this subject "asking" if there really was a second gear in a JR 50. After a bit of exploratory wrenching over the weekend, I can now confirm that there is (at least on a '98 model), although it is actually first gear that you enable.
The result: Stock is neutral - up, engaged - down. After modification you will have neutral in center, 1st -up, 2nd (your current gear) - down.
Good luck.
Worth the effort? - If your child is having problems on hills / trails, etc.... probably. Otherwise, without other sprocket changes, it will not be any faster. Also remeber that performing this modification will make any MX races illegal, as the 50 class is single gear (although the JR is not used much for mx anyway).
Process: Remove the right side case cover (I had to remove both the large cover and ultimately the round clutch cover for reassembly purposes). Shift in and out of gear while you observe the silver metal pieces under the kick starter shaft. You will need to remove the small spring and friction clip (easy). I used a dremel tool to make the offset hole symetrically equal on both sides of the stationary pin (easy, but tedious - took two dremel stones and 20 minutes). Obviously retain / clean dust and shavings when done, then reassemble (easy, but be sure to turn kick shaft during reassembly to ensure cover seats well against case without binding).
Time: Oil drain to crank ... about 2 hours. I'm sure many could do faster with less exploration and higher skill level!
The result: Stock is neutral - up, engaged - down. After modification you will have neutral in center, 1st -up, 2nd (your current gear) - down.
Good luck.
Worth the effort? - If your child is having problems on hills / trails, etc.... probably. Otherwise, without other sprocket changes, it will not be any faster. Also remeber that performing this modification will make any MX races illegal, as the 50 class is single gear (although the JR is not used much for mx anyway).
Process: Remove the right side case cover (I had to remove both the large cover and ultimately the round clutch cover for reassembly purposes). Shift in and out of gear while you observe the silver metal pieces under the kick starter shaft. You will need to remove the small spring and friction clip (easy). I used a dremel tool to make the offset hole symetrically equal on both sides of the stationary pin (easy, but tedious - took two dremel stones and 20 minutes). Obviously retain / clean dust and shavings when done, then reassemble (easy, but be sure to turn kick shaft during reassembly to ensure cover seats well against case without binding).
Time: Oil drain to crank ... about 2 hours. I'm sure many could do faster with less exploration and higher skill level!
