Just want you guys to know that I read threads like this and start thinking I whould sell my bike! :D There is no way I am smart enough to operate this thing. Seriously I print post such as fishhead's out and read them back just to try to get a handle on them. Thanks for the ecucation.
Switch from Pump to C-12
- Thread starter Txbigguy
- Start date
2strok4fun
Member
- Apr 6, 2002
- 1,085
- 1
Fishhead, a good explanation as far as I know (that isnt saying much) :D but Know brewing better than fuel, trust me there is no color imparted from charred oak, color depends on the malt selection drying temp, boiling temp (for initial brew, pre still) and distillation temp and pressence of vacuum or pressure during distillation.
sorry for the useless zymurgy info :eek: just another hobby that consumes money and time :) BTW i havent made homebrewed wiskey, but from what i have tasted i will stick to beer :) :confused:
sorry for the useless zymurgy info :eek: just another hobby that consumes money and time :) BTW i havent made homebrewed wiskey, but from what i have tasted i will stick to beer :) :confused:
Keith - Here's a link that goes into some of the details and also has some suggestions on further reading
http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?threadid=21160
titaniumvalv
Member
- May 8, 2002
- 7
- 0
vp c 12
I run c 12 in my yzf and didnt really see the need to change the jeting is this comon or am i just to stupid to see the dif.help me out with this feul i keep checking my plug and dont see anything wrong it always looks good and clean and the right color light brown is this normal.
I run c 12 in my yzf and didnt really see the need to change the jeting is this comon or am i just to stupid to see the dif.help me out with this feul i keep checking my plug and dont see anything wrong it always looks good and clean and the right color light brown is this normal.
2 4 fun,
You might be right about single malt scotches which are fermented from peat roasted barley such as Craggenmore But in the case of Jim Beam the white dog that goes into the barrel is clear as moonshine and 135 proof. After 2-8 years in the charred white oak barrels it has its distinctive color and flavor imparted by the carmelized layer below the char and since 20% of the alky has evaporated its about 80 proof.
Be sure to jet accordingly!!!! :)
You might be right about single malt scotches which are fermented from peat roasted barley such as Craggenmore But in the case of Jim Beam the white dog that goes into the barrel is clear as moonshine and 135 proof. After 2-8 years in the charred white oak barrels it has its distinctive color and flavor imparted by the carmelized layer below the char and since 20% of the alky has evaporated its about 80 proof.
Be sure to jet accordingly!!!! :)
2strok4fun
Member
- Apr 6, 2002
- 1,085
- 1
Be sure to jet accordingly!!!! true fishhead
improper jetting leads to sleeping in the garage with dogs. :eek:
proper jetting leads to naked jacuzzi parties :moon:
OK back to the subject of fuel, and this is also slightly brewing related.
I have many cornillius kegs (sp) the soda ball lock type, i can use my pressure regulator and nitrogen to dispense fuel from and keep it locked away from any air. does anyone see any problem with this method of storing and dispensing fuel. These are the 5 gal kegs.
chris
improper jetting leads to sleeping in the garage with dogs. :eek:
proper jetting leads to naked jacuzzi parties :moon:
OK back to the subject of fuel, and this is also slightly brewing related.
I have many cornillius kegs (sp) the soda ball lock type, i can use my pressure regulator and nitrogen to dispense fuel from and keep it locked away from any air. does anyone see any problem with this method of storing and dispensing fuel. These are the 5 gal kegs.
chris
dave wright
Member
- Jul 14, 2002
- 7
- 0
Has anyone heard of pro-fuel? A local dealer sells the stuff and I was wondering how it compares with VP C-12. Also, is there any difference between using leaded and unleaded fuels?
Superchief
Member
- Feb 11, 2003
- 103
- 0
when i bought my 03 cr 250 the salesman at the dealership told me all i should run in the thing is race gas. his explaination for this was: the bike is made to run off this type of gas, after all it is a race bike, and will always perform at optimum. while i am located 538 ft above sea level, the bike is a tad on the rich side with the stock jetting (small amout of carbon and yuck at the end of the silencer). waiting to install the pipe and reeds and then i'll worry about jetting. only thing i can say is while the jetting may be a little off, this thing rips from the day i bought it. The throttle response is excellent and the front wheel hates to stay on the ground. while i cant say it would'nt perform this well with less octane i've had no prblems with the c-12. i mix it as recommended with hp-2 oil, c-12 fuel at 32:1 mix ratio. guess you have nothing to lose by giving it a try, what's the worse that can happen, it performs better?
MX-727
LIFETIME SPONSOR
- Aug 4, 2000
- 1,811
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skipro, there is a shop out in Rancho Cordova that had C-12 when I was in there last summer. I'm pretty sure it was Rancho Motorcycle Dismantaling: 916-631-7900.
Also seems I saw some at a shop north of Madison on Auburn, Performance Cycle: 916-344-7911
If that doesn't work, contact the west coast VP rep: (909) 674-9167 or e-mail: vppacific@aol.com
Also seems I saw some at a shop north of Madison on Auburn, Performance Cycle: 916-344-7911
If that doesn't work, contact the west coast VP rep: (909) 674-9167 or e-mail: vppacific@aol.com
dadshillnut
Member
- Dec 28, 2001
- 66
- 0
So I should run Jim Beam at 32-1 with c-12.
So I probably shouldn't be going to the junk yard and using their refurbished fuel out of old cars in the trash heap? Hey they strain the water out of it with a big filter - should be good enough right?
Just kidding.
Rich, I have one for you - oxy fuels in 2-strokes. If someone were going to do that, what type of jetting changes would be needed to compensate for the higher oxygen content? 1-2 mainjets up?
I have a specific reason for asking this, but will hold off on that - just curious what you think might work as a safe starting point.
Nah, I'll tell ya. Someone here locally has (had) a YZF250 and they had some of the new four stroke fuel that is oxygenated - just sold their bike and purchased a KTM125 (2003) but still have a large quantity of their 4 stroke fuel... he wants to run it in the KTM, but I told him he needs to be extremely careful, and suggested he go WAY up on jetting, then slowly come back down till it is running properly - I didn't have any way (and don't) what type of increase might be needed in jet size to compensate for these oxygenated fuels.
MP
Just kidding.
Rich, I have one for you - oxy fuels in 2-strokes. If someone were going to do that, what type of jetting changes would be needed to compensate for the higher oxygen content? 1-2 mainjets up?
I have a specific reason for asking this, but will hold off on that - just curious what you think might work as a safe starting point.
Nah, I'll tell ya. Someone here locally has (had) a YZF250 and they had some of the new four stroke fuel that is oxygenated - just sold their bike and purchased a KTM125 (2003) but still have a large quantity of their 4 stroke fuel... he wants to run it in the KTM, but I told him he needs to be extremely careful, and suggested he go WAY up on jetting, then slowly come back down till it is running properly - I didn't have any way (and don't) what type of increase might be needed in jet size to compensate for these oxygenated fuels.
MP
MP - If you are talking about going from a good quality race fuel like VP-C12 to an oxygenated race fuel like MR2, then 2 steps richer on the main should be plenty for a safe starting point. Fuels like MR2 tends to vaporize really well so nearly all of the fuel that passes through the jet tends to make it to the combustion chamber in a combustible form.
Here's the hook though. If you are talking about going from pump fuel or one of the aromatic heavy cheapo race fuels to an oxygenated race fuel like MR2, then you may have to go a couple of steps LEANER on the main when using MR2.
Seems backwards right? Here's why. Pump fuels, and some of the cheapo race fuels have components that are so reluctant to vaporize that a LOT of the fuel that passes through the jet tends to make it to the combustion chamber in a NON-combustible form (i.e. liquid droplets). If it won't vaporize before ignition then it won't burn. So you end up having to add a bunch of extra fuel to hit your target air/fuel ratio. This is a MAJOR contributor to the spooge problem people experience with these fuels.
So even though the oxygenated race fuel carries additional oxygen, because it vaporizes more completely it takes less fuel to hit the target A/F ratio.
Hopefully this makes some sense, and will help explain why some guys aren't seeing the gains they should from using these high tech fuels.
Here's the hook though. If you are talking about going from pump fuel or one of the aromatic heavy cheapo race fuels to an oxygenated race fuel like MR2, then you may have to go a couple of steps LEANER on the main when using MR2.
Seems backwards right? Here's why. Pump fuels, and some of the cheapo race fuels have components that are so reluctant to vaporize that a LOT of the fuel that passes through the jet tends to make it to the combustion chamber in a NON-combustible form (i.e. liquid droplets). If it won't vaporize before ignition then it won't burn. So you end up having to add a bunch of extra fuel to hit your target air/fuel ratio. This is a MAJOR contributor to the spooge problem people experience with these fuels.
So even though the oxygenated race fuel carries additional oxygen, because it vaporizes more completely it takes less fuel to hit the target A/F ratio.
Hopefully this makes some sense, and will help explain why some guys aren't seeing the gains they should from using these high tech fuels.
Unfortunately they do that everywhere. :|
Mike - I have no personal experience with the Torco products.
Here's my race gas question. I have access to Citgo 110, Sunoco 110, and 66 110. Which would be the best to use? If it makes a difference, Citgo comes from a barrell and the others come out of pumps and are stored in the ground. The Sunoco comes from the local circle track, the 66 from a gas station, and the Citgo from Napa (they sale alot of it).
Phillips 66 doesn't really have a 110 octane fuel but they do have a 110 RON fuel called TT105 (formerly B42) . This fuel is designed for lower rpm fuel injected auto engines with long intake runners. Wrong fuel for your application plus anything that comes from a ground tank is a total crap shoot anyway so that's out.
Sunoco 110 is a good fuel but it's probably overkill plus it comes from a ground tank, so you are on your own. Personally I wouldn't waste my money on it unless you are trying to do nothing more than fight a detonation problem.
I have no personal experience with Citgo 110. The specs look basically right, again it's probably overkill. Bulk tank storage is iffy at best, so you might want to take a look at how he is storing it.
Thanks for your input. FWIW, I'm running it in a 02 CRF450 with a EG ported head, Wiseco piston, and a PC slip-on. The Citgo is stored in metal barrels but outside under a carport. He does sell lots of it. I have bought gas from him one weekend and he will have 5 barrels there, go back next weekend and he's out.
Good luck ;)
FWIW, there are MUCH better fuels for the CRF. If you are going to spend the money for good fuel it's worth the trouble to find one that will provide a noticeable advantage. :thumb:
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