Tie rod welded on???

[wanaride]

I tried to disassemble the tie rods and suspension linkage last night for a greasing, but I couldn't get the nut off of the front tie rod bolt!

I tried a socket wrench, and when that didn't work, I went to a 12" crescent wrench, and all it was doing was rounding off the nut. And this bike is less than a month old!

Besides penetrating oil, is there something special required for this? (Please be gentle, I'm an electrical engineer, not a mechanic, but I'm trying...)

The service manual says to jack up the bike to do this. My mongo milk crate gets the rear wheel off the ground but I can't get to the tie rod while on it...does the rear wheel have to be off the ground to do this?

 

[Robcolo]

Those nuts are torqued to 60 lb-ft. -- really tight! Use a 6pt [12 pt sockets ruin fasteners] socket on the nut and a box end wrench on the bolt head. Turn the nut, not the bolt head. Crescent wrenches are for Harleys only.

 

[JasonWho]

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[canyncarvr]

You ARE holding the other end, right? ;)

You unload the suspension (put it on mongo) because you can imagine that taking apart what's holding the bike up in the first place might be better off done whilst it isnot performing its designed function?

Taking the nut off wouldn't be a problem, but you sure don't want to try to remove the bolt unless the rear suspension is completely unloaded. That means nothing pushing OR pulling on it. So, while it's mounted on mongo, slip some 2x4s or such under the rear wheel to put the suspension components in 'neutral'...no pressure up OR down.

On your crate, there isn't any reason the pull rods won't come off fairly easily. It's not like you're trying to take the clutch off and the rear wheel is spinning.

You are using metric tools...not 'close enough' SAE?

Removal of this fastener should NOT be a problem.

Taking the pivot bolt out of the swingarm when IT hasn't been serviced for a few years...now THAT'S likely a problem!

 

[wanaride]

I tried a 17mm socket wrench with no luck, but the bike was NOT on the crate when I tried it because the tie rod was ON the crate and I didn't think it would come off like that.

I went to a home improvement store and only saw 12-pt sockets (3/8" drive). I guess I need to go to an auto parts store and look there...

 

[canyncarvr]

Part of the problem is the 3/8" part. Even if the thing was torqued properly a 3/8" ratchet likely isn't going to be long enough to get it undone.

Re-read the breaker bar comment from jw. As he said, a 15" or so long 1/2" drive handle with a 6pt socket will handle most anything.

Besides that, it takes less force to get the job done. Lean on the 3/8" hard enough to get that nut unstuck, and when it snaps loose you'll very possibly ram your knuckles into something you'll wish you hadn't!

That 15" bar won't have that problem.

Sears (or most any other hardware place I'm sure) has a nice breaker bar WITH a ratchet head that ANGLES to boot.

You need one-a those!

Of course you'll need a nice set of (sae and metric) sockets to match.

bummer ;)

 

[wanaride]

OK, a quick trip to Sears and I'm the proud new owner of 6-pt metric sockets. Bike is on the crate, I get the nuts loose with my 3/8" ratchet (and a squirt of WD-40), and now...

I can't get the tie rod bolts out of the left side of the bike because (1) the cylindrical "chain guard" (on frame) is in the way of the forward most bolt, and (2) the chain and chain "flapper" (on swing arm) is in the way of the rear most bolt. I must be missing something because I thought this was supposed to be easy.

What am I missing???

 

[wanaride]

OK fellow KDXers, sorry to be such a pain. I finally got the tie rod bolts out, and WOW, the new bike maintenance section of the JustKDX site is spot on...there was NO visible grease on those needle bearings or sleeves!

I now know what my problem is...well, besides being mechanically clueless...the freakin' crate that the bike sits on is totally blocking my access to the linkage. The curvature of the lower frame (and the weight distribution) causes the bike to slide down on the crate such that the linkage is entirely ON the crate, no matter how I wiggle or jiggle the bike.

I almost had a stroke trying to wedge my hand between the crate and the chain to get the tie rod AND bolt in there. I finally reached my stopping point, and now I plan to get a motorcycle jack first thing tomorrow. Maybe I can finish the job then...I bet the linkage will be much easier to maintain when I can actually REACH IT!

I think I will follow Canadian Dave's advice and tackle the steering stem bearing next...well, when the blood pressure drops some anyway!

 

[KelvinKDX]

Originally posted by wanaride
... I plan to get a motorcycle jack first thing tomorrow. Maybe I can finish the job then...I bet the linkage will be much easier to maintain when I can actually REACH IT!

I did the milk crate & board thing for a while - a couple years ago my wife welded me up a bike lift (with some advice from Canadian Dave).  Works fantastic.  Remeber she's no Electrical Engineer - she's a programmer studying to be a nurse.  :p
Just remember Wannaride - once you've done these things they seem so much simplier the second time around.

 

[wanaride]

What a difference a MSR aluminum lift stand made! The linkage was back together in no time, and now I have a $20 MSR blue crate "seat" to match.

If only my wife could weld...the right tool makes SO much difference!

 

[canyncarvr]

re: Can't get the bolts out

You might consider putting the pull rod bolts in from the opposiite direction next time. It doesn't make any difference which way they are put in, and it's easier taking them out away from the chain and its associated hardware.... imo anyway. You can choose the orientation that suits 'ya.

You'll be miles ahead if you use the right grease. 'Right' in this case being the stickiest, nastiest stuff you can find. Not nesessarily characteristics of good grease I guess..but your basic one-each moly-di you find at your basic one-each auto parts store isn't going to do a very good job. If cleanup after the job consists of a simple wipe of your hands on a rag...you probably don't have the right grease.

A grease used in marine applications (waterproof) is likely a good choice. Don't use something specified for use as a 'general purpose' chassis grease. You'll be replacing lower shock bearings on a regular basis.

There have been good results posted from using a belray marine application grease.

Make sure the pull rods are seated properly on the shoulder of the bolts...not against the shoulders. With the seals freshly cleaned and greased, it's easy to miss this (bolt shoulders are a tad on the short side) resulting in 'realignment' of the fasteners after you ride for a bit...the pull rods will be banging against the bolts, your suspension will be slopping around and you'll be buying more parts.

Moderate attention to detail on re-assy will be sufficient in preventing such a problem.

Congratulations on getting it done! See? It was pretty easy wasn't it?

 

[riverz]

Sorry, don't have anything to add but I would like everyone who's been posting to this thread to know that I found all of your information very useful. I've only been riding for three months and I'm always looking for tips. Perhaps it's time to subscribe.

 

[wanaride]

Riverz, FWIW, I was in the same boat you are in now. I have received MUCH more help from this web site than I got from my service manual. :worship:

There is an incredible amount of useful info here, and not just on KDX's either...if it has anything to do with a dirt bike, you will find real-world info about it here. That is why I subscribed...you just can't beat this site for OUTSTANDING info!!! :yeehaw:

 

[wanaride]

Oh yeah Riverz, one more thing, don't even waste your time with a "milk crate" bike stand...bite the bullet and spring for a "lift stand". You'll be glad you did!

 

[KdxChode]

If you have an air compressor go get a cheap impact gun for next time. Makes the job sooo much easier. I would never use it for assembly though, just for taking apart those really tight bolts.

 

[KdxChode]

some other useful tools you might want to pick up along the way are:

allen or hex sockets for removing front caliper(pretty hard with a regular allen wrench)

Small set of T-Handles available at bike shop for about $20 (great for spinning off all those 8 mill bolts.

A socket big enough to fit the rear axle

Ft/lb torque wrench for putting that suspension back together

In/lb torque wrench for the 10 mil nuts on front axle (it can really ruin a great day when you break one of those studs).

Most everything else I use would be in your standard metric tool box

Metric sockets 3/8" and 1/4"
ratchets
set of metric combo wrenches

If you got the rear suspension apart and back together and get the steering stem done you should be set for maintenance. Those are the hardest parts, everything else is a simple minute here and there so go have fun riding...