Clutch Problem Suggestions Appreciated

[PoconoPete]

Long story but I'll try to be concise. 1997 KDX 200. B rider and D mechanic. Bike wasn't staying in gear. Kept jumping into neutral. Open her up removing only clutch cover, magneto cover, clutch basket, clutch, pusher rod etc. and I find small broken return spring in the shift assembly. The small one towards the front of bike not the scissor looking one. Got it all, two pieces, nothing else floating around. While getting in there I had mistakenly loosened the clutch spring nuts. No big deal I figure I'll just toque them back to spec which I did. I replaced the spring and put everything back together properly (I've checked and quadruple checked). Everything is back in order according to the manual. The clutch does not want to work. Pulling the lever just gave me this weird hard resistance like the push rod wasn't moving anything. I go in again and check everything again. All looks OK and button her up. This time I pull the clutch lever and it seems like no resistance at all like the clutch release shaft (the vertical rod) is not reaching or touching the the push rod. I can work it by hand and just feel the light spring tension. I open it up and try pushing hard on the push pin. Nothing moves. Should it? I then back off the spring nut bolts so they are loose (just to test) and I can now compress the spring plate. I put cover on and the clutch pull feels fine from the lever, normal, but clutch isn't disengaging the gears. I torque the spring nut bolts back up because I know they need to be bottomed out and the torque is correct. Now I'm stuck as to what to try next. Is the clutch cover very finicky to correct reassembly? I took care to have the flat side facing the push rod. This is strange because it worked fine before I took it apart. Everything is back in place. I ended up removing the clutch plates and soaking them in oil, checked the basket for wear etc. just to be sure. Torqued spring nuts to 9.3 Nm as required. Is there something in the disassembly or assembly process that I am missing (a gear turned or something not positioned right that I was to do) or is it safe to assume that you simply put it all back together as the schematic shows. I am sure that no parts, washers etc. are missing and that it is assembled correctly. Plates put back in proper order. I don't understand what I'm missing.

 

[Acblind]

From everything that i've read and from my own personal experience with KDX's the way the clutch is designed it only works when the engine is started or when the clutch is warm/used often. I would start it in neutral and then try and use the clutch to see if that's the problem.

I know for me, if I try and use the clutch when the bike isn't running and hasn't been for a day or so it doesn't work at all, but as soon as i start the bike everything works perfectly.

 

[mudpack]

From everything that i've read and from my own personal experience with KDX's the way the clutch is designed it only works when the engine is started or when the clutch is warm/used often.

A normal KDX200 clutch works all the time. It may drag a little when first used after cooling off, but it works and feels the same ALL THE TIME.

To the OP, impossible to say what you did wrong from a written description. Have someone who is familiar with motorcycle clutches take a look at your bike. I'm betting he will spot the problem...and it will be minor...in a few minutes.
These clutches are very straight-forward and do not require any tricky steps to put them back correctly. How many shims did you put back on the pusher pin?

 

[julien_d]

There is a thrust washer which must be installed on the correct side of the basket, or else you will get no pull action which is what you are describing. Check that there is a thick washer between the basket and inner clutch hub. I think that is the one that if left out will behave as you describe.

 

[PoconoPete]

Thanks for the replies. Clutch always felt normal before, cold or hot. Even cold I could pull the clutch and roll the bike in gear with only minor drag. No problem starting in gear also not like others I have read. One shim on push rod the same one that was there. Same goes for the washer between the basket and clutch pack. I made sure it was there as well as the washer behind the sleeve (nearest tranny).Will be getting the mechanic next door to look at it if all else fails. Thanks for the tip that everything is straight forward and nothing tricky. That answers a major question. Is there any way to test the clutch pack to see if it is working properly? Should I be able to push the rod in by hand or only with the leverage of the cable?

 

[PoconoPete]

Update

Update- Talked with friend who had similar problem with older KDX. He confirms you have to play with the clutch a bit and make sure cover goes on right (Which I did but to no avail). Said it drove him crazy too. Also says that I shouldn't be able to push the rod without using the clutch cable. So I will give it another go tonight and hope that by taking it apart and reassmbling one more time it does the trick.

 

[PoconoPete]

Problem Solved

Seems the last clutch plate in the pack slipped off the spline on ressembly and I ended up warping it. I should have noticed that the plates weren't tight when putting things back together. I now know if the plates wiggle, as though there is one plate missing, then something is wrong. I've learned from this and it will now cost me money. Question I now have is since the clutch worked Ok before and it looks like only that last plate warped can I get away with just replacing that plate and saving a ton of money (for now)?

 

[julien_d]

Question I now have is since the clutch worked Ok before and it looks like only that last plate warped can I get away with just replacing that plate and saving a ton of money (for now)?

Yep.

 

[PoconoPete]

Cool thanks. I ordered the one plate. Was told to sandpaper the other plates. Gonna give it a try and make sure it goes in right this time.

 

[julien_d]

So this was a steel plate then? You neglected to mention. You can sand the old steels with fine grit, but NOT the friction plates, obviously.