Tight woods and the handle bars

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Jan 9, 2004
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#1
I have the standard 32" bars and everyone says they're too wide for woods. I just started woods enduring riding and was curious what's a good width. 30? 29", 28"? I know the shorter I go, the less stability I have on straight aways, but that is not the game in the woods.

Also, anyone add a FMF Rev pipe and not re-jet?
 
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#3
I just put on Moose hand guards and that's a blessing, b/c I bruised some knuckles already with the plastics. But my buddies keep telling me to cut the bars shorter, but want to do it right. One guys is 30" and another's is 29". With my hand guards its closer to 34" and I know that I barely fit through trees at 32". There's got to be a good number that maximizes stability and stealth through the trees.
 
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#4
If you put on bark busters check to see how thick they are where they attach to your bars. I cut just a little more off each side of the bars than that thickness. If you don't you'll end up with even wider bars by darn close to an inch. Use a good pipe cutter and a file to clean it up with. So I cut about 3/4 of an inch off each side. That makes them decent and you'll get used to the width easily. It really helps in the woods.
 

WaltCMoto

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#5
I took 1 inch off each end, but then the hand gaurds add about a 1/2 inch back on. You can always take more off, but putting it back on would be tough.
 
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#6
The funny thing is I brought my bike into the shop for its first lookover/oil change etc, and told them to cut an inch off each end while its there. When all was said and done I spent $1,300 on a new pipe, air box, skid plate, bark busters, WER damper, etc and got the bike home and noticed they forgot to cut the bars. That was the number one reason I brought it in. Don't get me wrong, they did a great job with everything at a great price, but now I want to make sure I get the bars right when I bring it back to get the vforce reed cage.
 
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#7
Do yourself a favor and buy a good set of bark busters. Mine are from Enduro Engineering and are very adjustable at the inside where the cross bar is. When you cut the bars you end up with less room and some of the different models are very difficult to fit on with all the other stuff there....like the brake handle and master cylinder, cables....etc. Some don't have that extra adjustablility and don't always come out real nice. They don't always lay flat making them look like they point up or down too much. I'm sure someone else could point out a good set too.
 

agitt73

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#8
$1300 sounds like you bent over and held your ankles for $600 worth of parts
 
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#9
Didn't get bent at all. I did the math before I bought. The steering stablizer and FMF rev pipe with turbine silencer is over $600 alone. If you can do better, then let me know. Plus they threw in goggles, lube, and a kryptonite chain and lock worth well over $150. I didn't mention a lot of other stuff. Add in aluminum throttle, snake lines, and other stuff. I was figuring $1,700 based on the cheapest prices I found for parts on the internet. No I didn't get bent. Labor was $320 which I will gladly pay this time of year when my garage is 5 degrees and I'd rather be snowmobiling.
 

agitt73

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#11
i guess i do get discounts i always cut my bars to 29" with my bark busters
my width is barely over 30" if they are the stock bars there is a steel rod welded in the center of the bar that can be a pain to get out
 
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#12
you should have a good set of renthal fatbars, fork springs adn revalve, wave rotors, new tires, spark arrest, graphics kit, big bore kit, polished swingarm, black wheels, adn a scotts and a nice oring chain a skid plate, pipe guard, maybe even a high quality front sproket, kevlar brake pads, brake snakes, stainless lines, talon hubs, ims tank, adn finally a larger fanny pack. cus this man cant feel his rear!!!
1300 but the labor and the vforce are paid for, heck we might even jet it and give you some handle bars. (Maybe he wont know their bent in instead of cut.) but look at how good she'll run now.
$1300 still no bars or handguards. $320 for labor adn Id rejet it in the dang livin room.
Ill bet the salesman/partsman is the mechanic too.
we all understand, dealers are on this earth for a reason
heck hes your friend.
give me $1300 dollars and I might b happy too see you again next week 2

you should do some pushups on the floor adn see what the most comfortable distance is for you to do them. then measure from outside to outside and this is were your grips should be. comfort 1st, good handle bars second, enduro engineering or cycra makes those fatbars better.
you really dont want to know how weak those stock bars are.
better luck next time man
 
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#13
29 " is what I'll do then.

To all mocking $1,300. My parts were only $908 and I have one heck of a great woods bike right now. Worth every penny. By the way the moose skid plate is sweet.