I finally have my parts ordered, a new flywheel and stator, among other things. When I put the new stator in, how do I adjust it, so the timming is correct? It has the three slots, for the screws that hold it on, but where do I turn it? :bang: Thanks for any help!
Timing adjustment
- Thread starter KDXMan1
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canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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The timing spec (on a 'regular' 'H' model) is 2.0mm BTDC, or 21º @6000rpm.
So, you need to know a couple of things. Where is the flywheel positioned @ 2.0mm BTDC and where the flywheel is positioned at 6000rpm.
You can mark the case/flywheel index point using a dial indicator. Find TDC. Positive stop method works best. Mark 2.0mm BTDC.
Hook up a timing light. Make the marks match up @6000rpm.
Just a guess, but the static or mechanical timing is set to max advance. The CDI delays it as required at lower and upper rpm. It's after 6K that the power valves should open, and then the timing is retarded from the 21º number.
The CDI isn't capable of making the timing happening sooner than the mechanical setting...but it CAN make it happen later.
howzzat?
So, you need to know a couple of things. Where is the flywheel positioned @ 2.0mm BTDC and where the flywheel is positioned at 6000rpm.
You can mark the case/flywheel index point using a dial indicator. Find TDC. Positive stop method works best. Mark 2.0mm BTDC.
Hook up a timing light. Make the marks match up @6000rpm.
Just a guess, but the static or mechanical timing is set to max advance. The CDI delays it as required at lower and upper rpm. It's after 6K that the power valves should open, and then the timing is retarded from the 21º number.
The CDI isn't capable of making the timing happening sooner than the mechanical setting...but it CAN make it happen later.
howzzat?
canyncarvr
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- Oct 14, 1999
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I din't mean to imply that the numbers I listed fit your bike. I have no idea what a kdx400 even is.
The method is the same regardless of bike. If you know the timing spec, there 'ya go.
If you don't, start in the middle as cicone said (well..DID say anyway). If you hear any pinging (assuming decent gas and properly jetted), retard it some. If you don't hear any, advance it some.
If it tickles you pink the way it runs when it's set to middle mark....leave it alone.
The method is the same regardless of bike. If you know the timing spec, there 'ya go.
If you don't, start in the middle as cicone said (well..DID say anyway). If you hear any pinging (assuming decent gas and properly jetted), retard it some. If you don't hear any, advance it some.
If it tickles you pink the way it runs when it's set to middle mark....leave it alone.
- Thread starter
- #7
Howdee guys, thanks for all the help, I bought a used stator, and good thing, it had the old marks from the screws, which was basically right in the midle. And, no, it doesn't have any markings that I could see. I posted a new thread, I guess this thing is not going to run anytime soon! Ya, I definitly need to go and get a service manual. :-)
- Thread starter
- #11
Hey guys, A HUGE THANKS TO ALL OF YOU FOR THE HELP!!! :-) I tried taking the kill switch off, and then kicking it over, 2 kicks and BRAPPP!!!! YA !!! I took off on that thing and it was way too fun, I've been riding it with my buddies all day, wow, she smoked an awful lot at 32:1, so I'm running good oil at 40:1. I've never driven a dirt bike before, only my street bike. Thanks again, this is great!
Can over retarding cause damage???
I've heard the hole in piston result of over advancing. Is there a bad result with over retarding or just power loss??? :think: No one on the pitbull site had an answer. I want to retard my kx500 more but I'm afraid to go beyond the mark on the stator because I don't know if it could cause damage. I geared it way down for woods riding, which made the power tuff to control. Retarding it to the mark gave me the desired result, but I would like to go a bit further if it won't hurt anything. Anyone have any experience retarding beyond the mark???
I've heard the hole in piston result of over advancing. Is there a bad result with over retarding or just power loss??? :think: No one on the pitbull site had an answer. I want to retard my kx500 more but I'm afraid to go beyond the mark on the stator because I don't know if it could cause damage. I geared it way down for woods riding, which made the power tuff to control. Retarding it to the mark gave me the desired result, but I would like to go a bit further if it won't hurt anything. Anyone have any experience retarding beyond the mark???
Green Hornet
Member
- Apr 2, 2005
- 837
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There should be a notch on the stator & a notch on the casing. Alig :cool: n these two and you should be alright
Retarding the timing will soften the bottom end and give you more top end run out. I don't think it will hurt anything as long as you stay within reason.
It seems that you may be working against yourself by gearing the bike down for woods work. You can keep the bike below the big power curve by keeping your revs down as well as reducing your shift frequency by keeping your gearing higher. I'd put a big flywheel weight on it and run my gearing as high as I could as long as I could avoid stalling it all of the time. I think that'd be allot easier on the body, reducing fatigue.
It seems that you may be working against yourself by gearing the bike down for woods work. You can keep the bike below the big power curve by keeping your revs down as well as reducing your shift frequency by keeping your gearing higher. I'd put a big flywheel weight on it and run my gearing as high as I could as long as I could avoid stalling it all of the time. I think that'd be allot easier on the body, reducing fatigue.
Thanks guys. Rhodester: I totally agree with you that I am working against myself. That is the problem trying to make a racing bike into a woods bike I guess. I'm also a pretty slow rider and like a nice slow 1st gear so I can crawl around without slipping the clutch consantly. It's pretty decent with 13/52 sprockets, but I'd like to try 13/55 if I can retard timing a bit further to keep it under control. Thanks again for your help. I think I'll go ahead and turn it maybe another 1/8" beyond the limit mark and see how it responds.
When I was looking for some more bottom end snap in my KDX Eric Gorr told me to advance my timing beyond the most advanced mark. I ended up about 1/2 of a space passed the mark. He said that KDXs had such low compression that I wouldn't be risking anything by going that far (or even more) advanced. With a milled cylinder base and (relieved) head I'm still only running 158lbs compression (if I remember correctly).
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