Tips For Replacing Headset Bearings??
- Thread starter COLOKDX
- Start date
Pete Payne
MX-Tech Suspension Agent
- Nov 3, 2000
- 933
- 38
COLOKDX,
Sure you can hand it . All you need is -- most importantly--patience, dissassemble the front end . Then drive the old races out of the frame. Take one of the old races and grind down the OD of the race so it will easily slide into the frame. Use this inbetween the new race and hammer to drive the new race in without damaging it.
To get the bottom race off of the steering stem, press the stem out of the bottom clamp , this will get the bearing off of the stem . Then press the stem back in , then press the bearing onto the stem. Grease everything good and reassemble . Hope this helpsw . ---Pete.
Sure you can hand it . All you need is -- most importantly--patience, dissassemble the front end . Then drive the old races out of the frame. Take one of the old races and grind down the OD of the race so it will easily slide into the frame. Use this inbetween the new race and hammer to drive the new race in without damaging it.
To get the bottom race off of the steering stem, press the stem out of the bottom clamp , this will get the bearing off of the stem . Then press the stem back in , then press the bearing onto the stem. Grease everything good and reassemble . Hope this helpsw . ---Pete.
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
To remove the seats from the frame if you can’t get them out with a punch, a mig weld around the face will shrink the old seat so it drops out.
Grind a couple of notches in the frame for the next owner to get a punch in.
Grind a couple of notches in the frame for the next owner to get a punch in.
Steering stem race removal
You know Dave, grinding the frame to make a 'step' is a great idea when you have the bearing out. I had to take a Dremel rotary tool and cut thru the race and then cold chisel it out. What a &*)*^%$%^ job. If you grind away a little of the frame when it comes time to get the races out next time you will have a little 'step' to drive the race out with. Be sure to clear a little space on at least 2 opposites sides, preferably 4 if you can.
I like the MIG idea for races without the step. The MIG bead will give you something to grab with your punch so you can drive it out.
Thanks,
Larry
KDX 200 'A' series racer!
You know Dave, grinding the frame to make a 'step' is a great idea when you have the bearing out. I had to take a Dremel rotary tool and cut thru the race and then cold chisel it out. What a &*)*^%$%^ job. If you grind away a little of the frame when it comes time to get the races out next time you will have a little 'step' to drive the race out with. Be sure to clear a little space on at least 2 opposites sides, preferably 4 if you can.
I like the MIG idea for races without the step. The MIG bead will give you something to grab with your punch so you can drive it out.
Thanks,
Larry
KDX 200 'A' series racer!
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
colo said '..garage mechanic..'.
How many of those have presses suitable for removing steering stems? Well..I don't, anyway. Maybe everyone else does.
'Sides, I wouldn't want to move the stem in MY bottom clamp for anything I didn't have to.
If you have a compressor, use your die grinder to cut the bottom bearing off. Don't have a die grinder? Heck...you NEED one..this is a good excuse (uh..REASON!) to buy a new tool. Be careful..you don't want to grind thru the stem! Don't get too rambunctious about it.
Or..use a vise (and some leather for protecting the metal of the clamp) and a crummy screwdriver, you can beat it off, too.
No vise? No compressor? Take it to a shop and have them remove it. You don't want to mess this up!
You can easily place the new bearing on the stem with a piece of 1 1/8" pipe. Thread the 'pound it' end, put a cap on it (better for pounding on) and a decent pounder (2 1/2# sledge works. Something like a 16oz claw hammer isn't going to do too good a job with the mass of the pipe)
FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL for install of the unit. If you don't know how to install a tapered bearing, learn how before you do this! 'Tight' is not good. Wrench 'snug' isn't good, either!! While supporting it ROTATE the stem back and forth, tighten the spanner nut to a few inch pounds (hardly more than hand tight), then HOLDING THE STEM IN, loosen the spanner, retighten by hand.
Oh..before you do any of this (good I put this at the end, huh?) make sure you use some decent grease. The moly-di-sul junk that is 'multipurpose' is NOT what you want to use. Use a not good, not better, but BEST waterproof (say from a marine wheel bearing application) stuff you can get...say Hydrotex Parsyn 70. I haven't used belray, but have heard of good results with their marine application stuff. If it's not a sticky mess to clean up, YOU USED THE WRONG STUFF!
You won't believe the crap handling you've been dealing with! A new bottom bearing (replacing a snickity one) is GREAT!
How many of those have presses suitable for removing steering stems? Well..I don't, anyway. Maybe everyone else does.
'Sides, I wouldn't want to move the stem in MY bottom clamp for anything I didn't have to.
If you have a compressor, use your die grinder to cut the bottom bearing off. Don't have a die grinder? Heck...you NEED one..this is a good excuse (uh..REASON!) to buy a new tool. Be careful..you don't want to grind thru the stem! Don't get too rambunctious about it.
Or..use a vise (and some leather for protecting the metal of the clamp) and a crummy screwdriver, you can beat it off, too.
No vise? No compressor? Take it to a shop and have them remove it. You don't want to mess this up!
You can easily place the new bearing on the stem with a piece of 1 1/8" pipe. Thread the 'pound it' end, put a cap on it (better for pounding on) and a decent pounder (2 1/2# sledge works. Something like a 16oz claw hammer isn't going to do too good a job with the mass of the pipe)
FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL for install of the unit. If you don't know how to install a tapered bearing, learn how before you do this! 'Tight' is not good. Wrench 'snug' isn't good, either!! While supporting it ROTATE the stem back and forth, tighten the spanner nut to a few inch pounds (hardly more than hand tight), then HOLDING THE STEM IN, loosen the spanner, retighten by hand.
Oh..before you do any of this (good I put this at the end, huh?) make sure you use some decent grease. The moly-di-sul junk that is 'multipurpose' is NOT what you want to use. Use a not good, not better, but BEST waterproof (say from a marine wheel bearing application) stuff you can get...say Hydrotex Parsyn 70. I haven't used belray, but have heard of good results with their marine application stuff. If it's not a sticky mess to clean up, YOU USED THE WRONG STUFF!
You won't believe the crap handling you've been dealing with! A new bottom bearing (replacing a snickity one) is GREAT!
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
Just your fingers & a bit of time to work it in & around. Excess will squeeze out. In an enclosed space there is a danger of too much grease, but a steering stem there is heaps of area to squeeze out into. Make sure the seal at the bottom is new, as this wil extend the life a zillionfold.
Oh the mig trick is better than lumps to punch on.
It shrinks the race so it falls out in no time.
On the floor.
No touching, I swear.
No mig? Me neither, but wrestle the bike in the van & take it to a friend’s. It’s worth it just to see it happen.
I have used a small angle grinder on the btm stem bearing. Do a little at a time & a light smack with a hammer will crack the last bit through.
Oh the mig trick is better than lumps to punch on.
It shrinks the race so it falls out in no time.
On the floor.
No touching, I swear.
No mig? Me neither, but wrestle the bike in the van & take it to a friend’s. It’s worth it just to see it happen.
I have used a small angle grinder on the btm stem bearing. Do a little at a time & a light smack with a hammer will crack the last bit through.
canyncarvr
~SPONSOR~
- Oct 14, 1999
- 4,005
- 0
Greasing a tapered roller:
Start with a clean bearing. Clean a new one if you are putting in a different grease (seeing as you don't know what's IN the thing to start with, assume it's different).
Place a lump of grease in your (clean) palm. Holding the bearing in the other hand..if it's big enough, place your index finger through the inner race.
Starting at the edge of your grease, drag the edge of the bearing (the space between the outer/inner races through the grease, rotating the bearing a bit as you go, until you observe grease coming out of the outer race between the rollers. You can use kind of a 'slap' effect through the grease to help force the grease through. The pressure of the bearing against your palm is enough to move the grease through the bearing.
A good idea to use a latex glove on your hand with the grease. Or a piece of plastic food wrap..maybe even a piece from a plastic bag. This will make cleanup a lot easier. Gotta keep those nails nice looking! ;)
BTW..DON'T use any 'general all purpose chassis lube' moly-disulphide junk. Get some sticky, nasty, up-to-the-job grease...say some waterproof marine application stuff. I've been using Hydrotex Parasyn70. Riders have posted good results from something from belray (a marine wheel bearing grease I think it is).
If it cleans up easily with a wipe or two from your shop rag, it's junk for grease. If after wiping, cleaning, rubbing, using handcleaner it's STILL around..you probably have the right stuff!!
Start with a clean bearing. Clean a new one if you are putting in a different grease (seeing as you don't know what's IN the thing to start with, assume it's different).
Place a lump of grease in your (clean) palm. Holding the bearing in the other hand..if it's big enough, place your index finger through the inner race.
Starting at the edge of your grease, drag the edge of the bearing (the space between the outer/inner races through the grease, rotating the bearing a bit as you go, until you observe grease coming out of the outer race between the rollers. You can use kind of a 'slap' effect through the grease to help force the grease through. The pressure of the bearing against your palm is enough to move the grease through the bearing.
A good idea to use a latex glove on your hand with the grease. Or a piece of plastic food wrap..maybe even a piece from a plastic bag. This will make cleanup a lot easier. Gotta keep those nails nice looking! ;)
BTW..DON'T use any 'general all purpose chassis lube' moly-disulphide junk. Get some sticky, nasty, up-to-the-job grease...say some waterproof marine application stuff. I've been using Hydrotex Parasyn70. Riders have posted good results from something from belray (a marine wheel bearing grease I think it is).
If it cleans up easily with a wipe or two from your shop rag, it's junk for grease. If after wiping, cleaning, rubbing, using handcleaner it's STILL around..you probably have the right stuff!!
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