Truck Stereo

[Moto Squid]

I finally got myself a decent truck, it's a 90 chevy fullsize extended cab. Now it's time to put in one heck of a thumpin system. I'm interested in where other people have stuffed subs and amps. I figure 10" subs are the largest that'll fit under the rear seats. Was looking at the Fosgate 10" HX2's...just one of those would really pound. Thinking maybe two of those with two 760 amps. I dunno really...tell me what you've got and how you like it!!! Thanks :) Oh ya, any pics of sub boxes for an extended cab would be sweet.

 

[Lorin]

There are a few companies that make a pre-formed box to fit underneath the back seat. the ones from Q-forms will hold one 10 inch sub each, while another company makes some that will fit a 12 (I believe with about 1 ft total volume for either), but they are a little pricey (about $200 per box - the sub). With that in mind, I would look into getting one box (probably the 12), with a good, quality subwoofer and try to get at least 250 watts to it. That truck is built fairly tight, and should be able to do quite well with a single sub. I am now running a single 12 in my standard cab truck with around 200 watts, and it works well. I would then use the empty side under the seat to make a nice amp rack,etc., and keep things real clean.

 

[Moteaux]

I agree with Lorin... simple and clean.  I had a Pro-Box (I think) in my 93 and 97 Chevy's and it was band pass box with two 8's in it.  I had a Fosgate Punch 70 going to it with the deck power on the other speakers.  The amp was mounted on the rear wall, but would get hot occasionally as there wasn't enough airflow to it.  It was plenty for me, but more is always better for some people.

Now I have one 10 behind the seat of my F-2fitty with the same Fosgate amp and the deck power running all the rest of the speakers.  Pionerr D6300 deck and Pioneer speakers in the front doors and rear pillars.  Now I have the amp mounted under the rear seat and never have any over heating problems.

Randy

 

[dirty~d~]

The R/F HX2s are good speakers for the money. Just one of those in the right box is more than enough. When I was working in car audio I saw too many times where people would buy top of the line subs and stick them in $60 dollar particle board homemade boxes... talk about trashing the entire concept. Have you tried looking at some of Obcon/RT boxes? They make a few custom boxes for trucks. The only downside with their boxes is they only come in one color... gray. Whatever you do, do not buy a R/F amp to drive that sub. Get a good amp... no I don't think R/F amps are good. I had to deal with more returns on just those amps alone than I did with all of the other products combined. They consistantly would overheat. Hopefully they figured out what was causing it and fixed the problem. They used to be the best punch for the buck, but I think Phoenix Gold now has them beat on that. Plus P/Gs customer service surpasses R/Fs for repairs/replacements.

 

[Moto Squid]

I did some looking at the RT boxes. The options for under the rear seat are: single box, drivers side 10", full width with two 10", and a full width "down" fire box with dual 10". What's the advantage to the subs facing down?? What are the RT boxes made out of that make would make them sound better?? I'm probably willing to spend the $$ (of which I couldn't find any amounts on their site :confused: ) if it will bring out the best in a 10" R/F Power HX2

Here are the specs...I really don't know much :think: so tell me what's good and how much overkill I'd be getting

~FIBERlock cone with Santoprene rubber surround
~frequency response 28-400 Hz
~power range 150-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil)
~peak power 2,000 watts
~sensitivity 83 dB SPL
~dual voice coil design (two 2-ohm coils)
~top mount depth 6-1/2"
~sealed box volume 0.625 cubic feet
~ported box volume 0.75-1.75 cubic feet

How much of an amp to bump something like that??? I guess I should figure out what I need in a head unit...any suggestions?? How about replacements for the factory speakers?? Hehe I want a system that'll knock all that good ol' Wisconsin right rust off :laugh:

 

[Albinohippie]

Here's my system http://www.sounddomain.com/id/albinohippie48. It probably won't help much since you have an extended cab and can utilize that extra space. It works great allthough I wish I had the extended cab because those smaller truck boxes take away some of the bass. It still sounds great though.

 

[Nevada Sixx]

if you dont already have a ton of tapes, i'd get a cd player for sure...that's cool you gonna get a system,, but i hope with all that power you wont jam it close to homes (even off a hwy) late at nite (after 10),,,people like to call the law on those people, and hope they get a dui in the process.

 

[dirty~d~]

I agree about the not bumping near home. It's not the cops I would worry about though. You don't want to broadcast what you have sitting in your garage. ;) Obcon makes a killer bandpass, but I don't think the magnet on that sub will fit it. With that sub using a sealed box is your best bet. You'd better double check how many cubic feet that sub requires for optimal performance. You put it in a box that's too small and you'll have a sub that sounds blown. Otherwise that R/T box should do nicely for you. Don't judge the box by its price. They have low overhead so they can afford to sell great boxes for a lower price.

For head units I've always preferred Alpine, but Pioneer makes a great line of cd players as well. Panasonic makes good looking stuff, but for a while the CQ-DF802U was eating cds. I'm not sure if they've fixed that problem yet. Clarion's mid range models have always been good for the money, but I've usually avoided them cause of their looks. In the last few years they've made some appearance changes that aren't bad on the eyes. If you don't want to change out the head unit, getting a cd changer and an adapter is a great way to go. If all you listen to are cds then there is really no advantage to swapping out the factory deck. Keeping it stock in appearance is another way of keeping people from wanting to help themselves to your stuff. ;) Plus with installing amps for the speakers, the head unit will be even less of an issue.

The best components I've heard to date (for the money) are Crystals... talk about clear, perfectly balanced sound. And their subs pound like you would not believe, but they are a bit pricey. If money is no object, go for Focal components. Then again car audio is all about personal preference and how much you're willing to spend. Kind of like motorcycles. :confused:

 

[Offroadr]

I have one JL Audio 10w6 powered by a RF Power 350 in mono in my truck. Its a crew cab so I am more limited than an extended cab. The seats in the crew cab limit you.

Not real happy with it, I think it should hit harded. The box is sealed and the correct volume. I need to try something else

 

[Moto Squid]

dirty~d the sealed box volume 0.625 cubic feet for the hx2's. I'm going to be switching out everything....I've got the older chevy dash so I have to put the cd player waaaayyyyy over in the middle, good thing for remotes lol. I'll fill the space left by OEM face unit with guages or some nifty switches.

Don't worry about me bumpin the system late at night...It annoys me when others do it. But beware when I'm pullin into school or work ;)

 

[MONKEYMOUSE]

If you don't want the rear seats that barley any one can sit in any ways I have an idea. Go with a plexy faced box. . .there larger and would not fit under the seats witch is why you would have to remove the rear seat(s). But they just about doubble how good the subs sound, at least I think so. And for some good subs check out earthquake subs, there kinda pricy but they will blow you away! But you gotta be carefull they WILL rip apart sub boxes lol (I've seen it first hand). Two 15's in a special made box broke out 3 windows in my friends VW golf :p . Check them out, they had a web page but I can't seem to find it now. . .I'll post it if I do.