My top end job was going good until I went to put the little "claw" gear on top of the advancer shaft. The little dimple on it isn't even touching the gear on the cylinder. It's like the shaft has been rotated clockwise some. The advancer will rotate clockwise smoothly and snap right back into place when you let go. Everything seems to work smooth but that advancer just rests in the wrong place. Is there a way the the alignment could have been messed up at the bottom of the shaft? I don't know how I messed it up but it's definately wrong now.
Twisted KIPS Advancer Rod?
- Thread starter KdxChode
- Start date
man, I would be careful with that, you might want to pull your right hand side cover and make sure it isn't broke down in there. It happened to mine and I have no idea how or when it happened. There was a piece that has 2 allen head bolts that hold it to that shaft down under the cover that was broke.
But, on mine that "claw gear" you are referring to lined up fine on mine, even though it was broke down in there.
Good luck!
But, on mine that "claw gear" you are referring to lined up fine on mine, even though it was broke down in there.
Good luck!
Part number 13236 was broke on mine.
I also had to replace 59051, it was almost melted alittle, it is a nylon gear.
Here is a link to a page out of a microfish for it:
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0...ne_covers.cfm?man=ka&groupid=4860&parent=4730
I also had to replace 59051, it was almost melted alittle, it is a nylon gear.
Here is a link to a page out of a microfish for it:
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0...ne_covers.cfm?man=ka&groupid=4860&parent=4730
Green Hornet
Member
- Apr 2, 2005
- 837
- 0
My Governor Holder bent inside the engine cover. That is what the rod connects to. Just repaired this week. Get the $7 part, new gaskets for Clutch Cover & Right engine cover. A trick, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE Water Pump Impeller. I did and it WAS NOT NEEDED. Hold the shaft with an adjustable wrench, when you slide the rubber boot down the lever you will see the indent for the wrench. I bet my check thats your problem. IT WILL BEND and most likely has. Replace it.
HA, I knew you were not the only one GH!
KDXChoda- :laugh: -
Did you slip the rubber boot down to expose the flat edges for a wrench like the manual suggests when removing the left handed nut? Were you aware that it is a left hand nut?
If not, chances are you broke something and/or the alignment is off. You will have to remove the cover to see.
KDXChoda- :laugh: -
Did you slip the rubber boot down to expose the flat edges for a wrench like the manual suggests when removing the left handed nut? Were you aware that it is a left hand nut?
If not, chances are you broke something and/or the alignment is off. You will have to remove the cover to see.
Green Hornet
Member
- Apr 2, 2005
- 837
- 0
Phil-I could not find that in the manuel (holding the rod)
Only saw it on CD Tips
Only saw it on CD Tips
- Thread starter
- #7
I knew all about holding the the shaft while removing the nut. The only thing I can think of that would cause it to break was too many beers maybe. Oh well, I'm gonna tear it apart and see whats up.
Also...Do you really need to line the "claw gear up with the gear on the cylinder? Wouldn't it be in the right spot if you fully closed the exhaust valves then put the "claw" gear on?
Also...Do you really need to line the "claw gear up with the gear on the cylinder? Wouldn't it be in the right spot if you fully closed the exhaust valves then put the "claw" gear on?
Green Hornet
Member
- Apr 2, 2005
- 837
- 0
If the assembly IS NOT BROKEN, it will fit ONLY ONE WAY. The claw will sit into the DING on the rod.
Green Hornet said:
I'm sorry GH, you are absolutely right, there is nothing in the manual. I must have read it somewhere else. Man, that is an important step worth mentioning in the maual.
KdxChode said:
Sure.... blame it on the beers ;) . Providing everything else is in correct alignment inluding the remaining parts of the KIPS, with the exhaust valve fully closed the claw will only fit one way. You may notice that there is not a notch ( or mark of any sort) on your mating gear (only on the claw), if this is the case this will be your only option anyway.
reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
I figured I might as well dredge up this old thread instead of starting a new one, as it already has a useful block of information...
In my ongoing saga of pulling a 95 KDX from the grave (a $800 craigs list special that is now approaching $2000), I have the motor rebuild done and just buttoned it back up last weekend, which lead me to some questions about the KIPS valve shaft alignment.
Question 1: If the manual warned about supporting the shaft with a wrench, I totally missed it. So of course I over rotated the stupid thing. Not being a complete idiot, I was already suspicious of the whole flexy mess, and was not applying much torque. After I felt it "pop" a little, I stopped and just pulled off the right side engine cover. The post had popped out of the little springy advancer assembly, but I stopped before wrenching it against the case (the next thing it hits). The post shows some visible grooving from time, but is still 99% intact. The allen screws are still tight, the shaft does not appear bent or twisted, everything looks fine. I'm assuming that the damage comes when you don't stop and dismantle after the first "snap" when it pops out of that spring loaded collar, so I am assuming I didn't damage anything. Tell me if I am nuts.
Question 2: If there is an alignment procedure for that top gear when puttting the side cover back on, I can't find it in the manual (not the first time something has been there and I have missed it). I see a dot by one of the teeth in that little claw that engages the kips gear, and the whole overall range of play looks perfectly reasonable. I engaged that gear with the KIPS valve "closed" (blocking as much of the exhaust port as possible) and it looks like rotating the claw will cause the port to open completely about the time it gets to the other end of the teeth. So everything looks plausible, but they do have that dot on there, and I suppose it is supposed to line up with something... but what? Is it a precision deal, or just "the dot should be where the first tooth touches the gear" type deal? Any pictures?
Thanks!
In my ongoing saga of pulling a 95 KDX from the grave (a $800 craigs list special that is now approaching $2000), I have the motor rebuild done and just buttoned it back up last weekend, which lead me to some questions about the KIPS valve shaft alignment.
Question 1: If the manual warned about supporting the shaft with a wrench, I totally missed it. So of course I over rotated the stupid thing. Not being a complete idiot, I was already suspicious of the whole flexy mess, and was not applying much torque. After I felt it "pop" a little, I stopped and just pulled off the right side engine cover. The post had popped out of the little springy advancer assembly, but I stopped before wrenching it against the case (the next thing it hits). The post shows some visible grooving from time, but is still 99% intact. The allen screws are still tight, the shaft does not appear bent or twisted, everything looks fine. I'm assuming that the damage comes when you don't stop and dismantle after the first "snap" when it pops out of that spring loaded collar, so I am assuming I didn't damage anything. Tell me if I am nuts.
Question 2: If there is an alignment procedure for that top gear when puttting the side cover back on, I can't find it in the manual (not the first time something has been there and I have missed it). I see a dot by one of the teeth in that little claw that engages the kips gear, and the whole overall range of play looks perfectly reasonable. I engaged that gear with the KIPS valve "closed" (blocking as much of the exhaust port as possible) and it looks like rotating the claw will cause the port to open completely about the time it gets to the other end of the teeth. So everything looks plausible, but they do have that dot on there, and I suppose it is supposed to line up with something... but what? Is it a precision deal, or just "the dot should be where the first tooth touches the gear" type deal? Any pictures?
Thanks!
Remove the shaft lever nut using a 10 mm wrench, it has left handed threads.
NOTE: Before loosening the nut make sure to secure the exhaust valve actuator shaft so that it can NOT turn. If the shaft turns it can damage the assembly or even break
Quote from the cyclepedia online manual.
NOTE: Before loosening the nut make sure to secure the exhaust valve actuator shaft so that it can NOT turn. If the shaft turns it can damage the assembly or even break
Quote from the cyclepedia online manual.
reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
For the record, mine turned out fine. The first "pop" isn't the expensive one :)
I noticed something interesting... I could have sworn my 95 rod retainer mechanism (keeps the rod from moving up and down) was a little microscopic ball bearing... In fact I seem to recall crawling around under the workbench looking for it at some point.
I'm cleaning up a friends KDX-220 now, and his was completely missing that part (guess the previous owner didn't feel like crawling under his bench ;) ). So I look it up on the parts diagram for the 220, and it looks like his uses a stell rod instead of a bearing. Not a bad idea... that bearing gets stuck in the goo in there until you stop paying attention, then pops out when you are not looking. At least a rod could only roll away in one direction ;).
I noticed something interesting... I could have sworn my 95 rod retainer mechanism (keeps the rod from moving up and down) was a little microscopic ball bearing... In fact I seem to recall crawling around under the workbench looking for it at some point.
I'm cleaning up a friends KDX-220 now, and his was completely missing that part (guess the previous owner didn't feel like crawling under his bench ;) ). So I look it up on the parts diagram for the 220, and it looks like his uses a stell rod instead of a bearing. Not a bad idea... that bearing gets stuck in the goo in there until you stop paying attention, then pops out when you are not looking. At least a rod could only roll away in one direction ;).
