ugh. another cr jetting question.

[crmx91]

blah. okay, its a 2003 CR125 when i bought the bike they gave me the "correct jetting" stuff(needle/main/slow/clip position and air screw turns. So, I break the bike in and then proceed to change out the jetting.. i do so and yes its like 5000 times better but the inside of my side panel is still wet/black with oil. I dont know what the deal is. the stock settings are:

Air screw opening 1 3/4 turns out.
Slow jet #30
Jet needle 6DGY21-69
Needle clip position 3rd groove
Main jet #430
Float level 0.29 in (7.5mm)

What I put in:

Air screw - 1 1/4
slow jet - #40jet needle - 6DGY22-71
clip position - 2nd groove from top
main jet - #410
i dont even know anything about a float level thingy..

so HELP .. haha..
Im in the houston area about 200 feet and prolly 80-100% humidity
IM about to start running C-12
PC pipe/shorty is the only go fast engine mod i have made.
any suggestions like i said im tired of the blub and the mopping up of the oil. thanks..
and yes my plug is black and sooty

 

[Faded]

Why would you jump from a #30 pilot all the way to a #40? That is a pretty big step and I would suspect it's a big contributor to the problem. Also, running straight pump you will be a spooge candidate. With the switch to C-12 the consistency in gas will allow you to jet closer to the edge and help you elimate your spooge problem. First things first though, before you mess with the jetting you'll need to answer a few simple questions:

1. Is my float level correct? Call the dealer, get a manual, do what is needed to set your float level to factory specs. If you recieved an owners manual with the bike it will outline what you need to do.
2. What gas am I going to run? Decide what you need/want and stick to it (C-12 is a good choice).
3. What mixture am I going to run? Whether it be 32:1, 40:1, etc. make sure it's consistent everytime.
   [/list=1]
   
   If you get a definate answer to these questions and everything else is in order (fresh silencer packing, fresh top end, clean powervalve) then you'll be able to start jetting correctly. All these variable can play a major factor in chasing jetting problems.

 

[crmx91]

I have the owners and service manual and the float level is correct, also i want to run C-12 at 32:1 with HP2 oil. im not sure why the jump from 30 to 40, all i did was put in the new jets that honda of houston gave me. my powervalves are clean and i have about 3 hours on my new wiseco piston and rings. everything is in tip top shape except the jetting.
so where do i got from here? i was thinking about going to clip poistion 1 on the needle?
thanks for the reply faded

 

[Faded]

CRMX91,

No problem. Your next best bet would be to read this post:

http://www.dirtrider.net/forums3/showthread.php?s=&postid=648171

You also need to mix up some C-12 and get an idea of what it's going to do when you run it. It will be futile to go any further without running your preferred premix (I'm guessing your still have pump in your bike and not C-12). After you ride a little on the C-12 take notes on how the bike acts. This is the information that we'll need to move on.

It would be helpful in disecting the needle code in the mean time. See if it says what the difference is between the needles in your manual (look in the jetting section). It should say something like this:

Needles affecting 1/8-1/4:

6DGY21-68 (richer)
Stock: 6DGY21-69
6DGY21-70 (leaner)....etc.

Needles affecting 1/8-3/4: (listed rich to lean)
6DGY22-68
6DGY22-69
6DGY22-70
6DGY22-71

Again, IMHO I'd run some C-12 and go from there. The inconsistency of pump will make it hard to dial in and next to impossible to rid yourself of the spooge.

Good luck.

 

[Studboy]

I would put the #30 pilot jet back in also. If it ran on it fine before, why would you go bigger??? My guess is the slower speed circuits are your problem regarding the spooge.

 

[Faded]

Originally posted by Studboy
I would put the #30 pilot jet back in also. If it ran on it fine before, why would you go bigger??? My guess is the slower speed circuits are your problem regarding the spooge.

This will most likely net you a lean condition at 1/8-1/4 with the needle they've supplied (if the needle code is along the same lines as the CR250's). You might try a #37.5 or a #35 pilot.

Originally posted by crmx91
...all i did was put in the new jets that honda of houston gave me...

He trusted the dealer.... :|

 

[crmx91]

i looked it all up and found out that going from a 30 slow jet to a 40 is going RICHER.. what?/? anyway.. i put the old # 30 in. im trying to get hooked up with a local C-12 dealer and then ill be able to tell how it all works.. my needle it leaner than stock and the main is leaner.. and the airscrew i have no idea about.. i fart with that stupid thing all of the time. anyway.. i think its on about 1-2 screw out right now. but there is one small problem. i wont have any wheels for my bike for at LEAST 2 weeks(they are being sent to tcr to have them anodized, laced, and trued.- yeah baby) anyway.. i can start the bike up on the stand but i cant actually ride the bike...

 

[crmx91]

is the pilot the same as the slow jet???? also will going back to the #30 slow/pilot jet make my bike run lean?
thanks again

 

[Faded]

Originally posted by crmx91
is the pilot the same as the slow jet???? also will going back to the #30 slow/pilot jet make my bike run lean?
thanks again

Yes. pilot and slow jet are one in the same. Going back to the #30 pilot with your current needle (6DGY22-71) will probably result in a lean condition at 1/8-1/4 throttle because of the overlap in the circuits (your needle is probably 2.5 steps leaner than stock at 1/8-1/4 and 0.5 steps leaner at 1/4-3/4s...not 100% as you've not answered my question in the previous post). Reading the other post I linked to would help you to understand the overlap of the circuits.

 

[crmx91]

what was the question? i thought i got all of them. i have the stock needle should i put that one in (71 in now and 69 stock, of should i go to the 70??)
im reading the article.

 

[Faded]

Originally posted by Faded
It would be helpful in disecting the needle code in the mean time. See if it says what the difference is between the needles in your manual (look in the jetting section). It should say something like this:

Needles affecting 1/8-1/4:

6DGY21-68 (richer)
Stock: 6DGY21-69
6DGY21-70 (leaner)....etc.

Needles affecting 1/8-3/4: (listed rich to lean)
6DGY22-68
6DGY22-69
6DGY22-70
6DGY22-71

Just need to confirm this. If this isn't the case then what does it say?

 

[crmx91]

oh haha mine says:

the jet needle controls fuel/air mixture over 1/16 to 3/4 throttle

 

[crmx91]

thats ^^ all it says. it doesnt have a list showing lean to rich needles..

 

[motometal]

I think the premix oil makes a big difference.  I have had bikes jetted pretty crisp that still spooged, and the premix oil is suspect.  some types burn off more completely at a given combustion temp.  I'm trying Mobil mx2t soon, as i've heard good things about it.

 

[Faded]

:think: Hmmm, going to have to see if we can figure this out...

Motometal, I've been running the Mobil MX2T all year with very good results. Spooge is minimal with the correct jetting even with pump gas.

 

[crmx91]

baaa! its alive and well.. i rode my bike today (i blew off the rim stuff cus i go crazy if i dont ride enough) and going back to the stock pilot/slow jet cleaned it up a BUNCH. no more sputtering and blue smoke(well not much) just a clean sounding brap:) Im going to lakeside motocross on monday(labor day) so ill let you know how it runs once i take it outside of my yard.
BTW is HP2 a good "anti-spooge" premix oil? my local shop charges 7 bucks for a pint so im looking for something a little cheaper and maybe a little better? what is this mobil 1 MXP2??

 

[Faded]

(click) Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oils

1 pint = $3.48 @ Autozone

 

[crmx91]

woohoo. we disced up our practice track this morning and it rained all day yesterday. So i fired up the bike and right off the bat i could tell it was running better. i scrubbed the inside of my sidepanel last night to clean off ALL the oil so i could see if i spit any out today. well i took off and i finally realized that people are wasting their money on reeds and pipes and stuff. just getting the jetting right felt like i gained some ponies. After an hour of ripping through sand and laom(our track is awesome after a rain) i pulled in to give her a washing. I didnt spit a drop of oil out. i was so freaking happy. i pulled the plug and it was a perfect tan. awesome, ive never seen a plug thats tan on my bike. haha. putting the stock #30 pilot back in was the ticket. it didnt blubber and it didnt surge so all is well. thanks faded and everyone. I have another question, when i start running C-12 and it gets colder in the winter what will i have to change to richen it back up? thanks again.

 

[motometal]

I would go one or two sizes richer on the main, one clip position, and adjust the air screw just rich enough so it won't bog.  This should be very safe.

Keep in mind that the pipe internals and silencer packing hold a lot of oil.  I'm actually surprised that your bike didn't continue to spooge for a bit even though you leaned it out.  I would guess that you were also working the motor pretty hard.

 

[crmx91]

our track is mostly sand and extremely wide open 2nd gear is used for one turn only so yeah im riding it pretty flat out. im going to local track wed. night after school(also a sandy track) and ill check out the spooge factor their too.
thanks for the tips on jetting for winter motometal.