Wake-up mods

[KayDeeXer]

I am currently running a 2004 KDX220 with an fmf gnarly woods pipe, turbine core II silencer, and a cut out airbox. I re-jetted the bike to where i think it should be. Just from these simple mods I have noticed a big difference in power. Is there any other simple modifications that will wake the KDX up even more?? I love the bike and couldn't be happier with it, but it is always fun for me to mess around with things and see what the bike can do. I mostly ride in very tight trails, so i don't want to get too crazy with power. Any input on the mods you have liked after doing them to your bikes would be great!!

-KayDeeXer

 

[Fred T]

I am currently running a 2004 KDX220 with an fmf gnarly woods pipe, turbine core II silencer, and a cut out airbox. I re-jetted the bike to where i think it should be. Just from these simple mods I have noticed a big difference in power. Is there any other simple modifications that will wake the KDX up even more?? I love the bike and couldn't be happier with it, but it is always fun for me to mess around with things and see what the bike can do. I mostly ride in very tight trails, so i don't want to get too crazy with power. Any input on the mods you have liked after doing them to your bikes would be great!!

-KayDeeXer

Try some new needle jets, straight taper like CEK, CEL will work I think, it's been a while. The stocker is a tad lean at 1/4-2/3 throttle. Boyesan power reeds help too.

 

[Feanor]

KayDeeXer,

I have the same year KDX-220, but I went with the Desert Rev pipe on it rather than the woods pipe as I was thinking that I would feel a need to rip it up in the sand dunes as well :)

I've modded the airbox lid and have the same TC2 silencer as well... Isn't is amazing just what a performance pipe will do for the 220? :)

Though its a little bit more work to install it (though not by much) I also got a Boyesen Rad valve and would HIGHLY recommend it for no other reason than that it smoothed out the power curve from idle to WOT... If the motor makes more power because of the RAD valve then I'm not good enough to detect it, but what I really love is that (on my bike) instead of the power coming up predictably to a sudden "hit" the bike has the same power at WOT, but the power is far more linear as you roll on the throttle, more like a 4stroke...

not certain how the rad valve accomplishes this but, but it makes riding the bike (especially in sandy or slippery conditions) far more predictable.

I would think if you are a tight woods rider, that you would also love the the way the power comes on with the valve installed...

Its not cheap, and I think a possible alternative is to go with just the Boyesen reeds if you want give it a shot...

Good luck to you!

Feanor

 

[john_bilbrey]

You can also go with the RB Designs carb, they are rumored to do more than a pipe. Most folks here that have one swear by them.

 

[bradf]

I have all the mods listed (FMF -30), and the RB carb was the best, but I am thinking it needs the rest to be effective.

 

[KayDeeXer]

Thanks for all the input!! Yea...I was amazed at what a couple hundred dollars did to my bike!! I will have to check out the Boyesen rad valve, it sounds like something I would definately benefit from. A smoother power band in the tight woods would definately be nice. The RB carb sounds like i to does a lot for the bike if it does more than a pipe! Thanks again!!!

-KayDeeXer

 

[Fred T]

Imo

The rad valve will give a disappointing gain for the money, the best bang for the buck is the 607 reeds -crisper throttle response for tight trail riding.

I was under the impression k-d-xer was looking for inexpensive yet effective mods tor tight trail riding. Needle jets and Boyesan power reeds answer that quest. A Rad valve and RB carb will cost in excess of $300 to almost $400. (I would spend that money on suspension) My suggestion will be about $50 for reeds and 2 needle jets. I confirmed my "old" notes and the CEK #3 works best on the 220. Then theres the CEJ,CEL needles to try too. This is assuming you have the pilot jet nailed down already. I think the CEL gives the bike a nice "hit" Stocker was a R1173n and worked best in #2. Try a CEL #2 or a CEK #3. She'll pull better off idle with the correct pilot jet and the Boyesan reeds.

 

[Rhodester]

The RAD valve made my throttle response snappier. Feanor, if it made your power smoother it could be because the RAD valve requires the jetting to be leaner. Too rich of jetting will smooth out the power band compared to "crisp" jetting.

The CEK or CEL gave me a very smooth and somewhat hit-less power band. That would be great for slick or thick conditions. I'm now running a DEK which is more powerful on the bottom end than the CEK or CEL and gives me snappier throttle response too. It makes it real easy to break the rear end loose with the new found power even at low RPMs. Please realize that I'm running a 200 and not a 220.

 

[Fred T]

The DEK is richer up ti 1/4 throttlr thrn slightly leaner from 1/4 to 1/2 and then is the same as the CEK. Maye the rad valve and 35MM carb reflect that needle in a 200.

 

[Fred T]

OK, check this chart out to see how the CEL and CEK will give the 220 some early boost compared to the stock needle. With more air to the motor from the air box mod this will give you some quicker throttle response with them boyesan reeds.
Pilot is 42, main is a 145 and the CEL is in clip#2 and the CEK is in Clip#3 just to show how they are a bit different, clip position will need to be tested between #3 and #2. :cool: