1998 kdx 200 front disk brake is weak and will only lock the wheel at walking speed. We have bled the line but the brake still does not work like the one on my 1994 kdx 200 (it did before). It will lock the front wheel when the bike is elevated and the front wheel is spun by hand. Any suggestions are appreciated.
weak front disk brake
- Thread starter lsfoster
- Start date
David Trustrum
~SPONSOR~
- Jan 25, 2001
- 1,396
- 0
Well that’s not right obviously.
Take the calliper off & the pads out. See if you can pump the pistons out a little. If one or more is seized there is your problem.
The sliding pins should be free as well & the pads may be contaminated with oil from bleeding the brakes or a previously leaking fork seal. You will never clean them.
Is the disc warped or discoloured?
[note; I spell in English if some of the words look funny]
Take the calliper off & the pads out. See if you can pump the pistons out a little. If one or more is seized there is your problem.
The sliding pins should be free as well & the pads may be contaminated with oil from bleeding the brakes or a previously leaking fork seal. You will never clean them.
Is the disc warped or discoloured?
[note; I spell in English if some of the words look funny]
dirt bike dave
Sponsoring Member
- May 3, 2000
- 5,349
- 3
As David said, contaminated brake pads or grooved pins are possible.
But it could also be a really hard to get air bubble. On one of my old KDX's I tried the conventional bleeding methods about a dozen times and still could not get full braking power. So I removed the master cylinder/hose/caliper from the bike and hung it straight on a wall for a few days, tapping the line with a screwdriver handle a few times to dislodge the air bubbles. It worked.
But it could also be a really hard to get air bubble. On one of my old KDX's I tried the conventional bleeding methods about a dozen times and still could not get full braking power. So I removed the master cylinder/hose/caliper from the bike and hung it straight on a wall for a few days, tapping the line with a screwdriver handle a few times to dislodge the air bubbles. It worked.
endurohero
Member
- Apr 16, 2003
- 49
- 0
After your positive that your pads and pins are almost new and your disc is straight , watch the deflection of the disc when the brake is applied, you can do this with the bike stationary just squeeze the brake and look at the disc if it moves in or out then your caliper carrier is bent (the part that bolts to the fork leg, that holds the caliper in place) so the brake pads arent allowed to conact the disc parrallel, it doesnt take much to affect braking.If you ride in an area with deep ruts it is possible to bent this part without bending the disc.
