Who knows the most about changing fork seals???

Custom KDX · Nov 2, 2004

Hey, My left fork seal blew out and that fork lost all its oil. :| I now need to replace it. :think: I tore the whole front end apart, and the fork is sitting on my work bench all drained, springs out, dust covers off, and all cleaned up. I hope you guys have done this before (Im sure you have!!!) and that there is some one who can tell me the next step on switching them out. Thanks

By the way I tryed putting 80psi of air on the air bleed screw and the drain screw. Ya, nothing happened... :bang:

JasonWho · Nov 2, 2004

motorider200 · Nov 2, 2004

Hey I was wondering if you needed to have something to keep the rod assembly from turning when removing the lower bolt.

rethnal · Nov 2, 2004

Isn't there a C clip holding the seal in place? remove it and yank them apart... that's how I remember it on my 92..... Correct me if I'm wrong.....

Custom KDX · Nov 2, 2004

I am just planning to lock it up in a big vise. Hopefully without using to much pressure!

Custom KDX · Nov 2, 2004

Have any of you guys had to replace a fork because of a good sized nick. I put a couple on it during hill climbs and thats sorta what tore up my seals. I cleaned it up with a very small file and some corcus cloth. This guy who was north west champion said that I should replace that fork because it will only happen again. Its about 8mm long by just under 1mm deep. I need a second opinion. Thanks

Custom KDX · Nov 2, 2004

Well, there was a c clip type thing holding the dust cover in place but if that 80psi didn't force them apart then I aint going to try pulling on them to much but ill go try right now, anyway!

rethnal · Nov 2, 2004

Gotta get a good yank on it by compressing 'em and then yanking them apart... 80 psi ain't gonna have more pressure than that!

JasonWho · Nov 2, 2004

motorider200 · Nov 3, 2004

Thanks Jasonwho thats what I thought but wasn't sure. I just changed the oil seals in my dads xr a couple weeks ago and did have to remove the rod assembly to get the seals out. I had to buy a peace of 1" pipe and cut to knotches in the end to slide down into the fork to keep the rod from turning. When ordering the seals I also ordered a seal driver which worked great.

JasonWho · Nov 3, 2004

rethnal · Nov 3, 2004

JasonWho said:
STOP! You HAVE GOT to take the base valve assembly / damping rod out first!!!!

Boy... don't I have egg on my face..... :ugg:

1tontj · Nov 3, 2004

JasonWho said:
I have used the special tools mentioned in the manual and hand tools. Suspension shops use air impact tools to get them out. "I ain't got no" air impact wrench, so I can't report on how well that works. On the cartridge forks, it is the same way, just with a different tool, depending on which set of forks you have.

I do have air, and use the impact wrech to take the fork apart. This works very well and is very quick.

To put it together I use a home made tool (nut welded to pipe) so I can torque everything properly.

Phil

motorider200 · Nov 3, 2004

JasonWho said:
Sorry to be off topic, but did you have to remove the rod nut and spring guide before putting the cartridge holding tool in the forks?

To get the tool (peace of pipe) to fit in I just had to remove the spring and nut at the top of the rod. Again this was on an xr400.

JasonWho · Nov 3, 2004

Custom KDX · Nov 3, 2004

I really screwed up, I think. I was really hammering that tube back and forth. I hope I didn't mess up that connecting rod and stuff. "JasonWho" Where were ya before I did that! :bang: This Sucks...

JasonWho · Nov 3, 2004

tn220 · Nov 3, 2004

You probably didn't hurt anything. thats exactly how I changed my seals the first time. It does make it challenging to get the bushings back in place though. Much better to research it and make the tools to take it apart. It's easier and you can clean everything with it apart. LH

JasonWho · Nov 3, 2004

rethnal · Nov 3, 2004

Sure... blame it on EGGMAN! :) Should have a manual anyway... Right Jason! :laugh:

tn220 · Nov 3, 2004

Hey JasonWho, Yes they were on my 97 220. One of the inner tubes had a small nick I'm guessing was the problem. I used a wet stone out of a knife sharping kit to smooth out the bur and then some 600 wet sand paper then some 1200 to polish the spot. Someone told me you could take the caps off and remove the springs and then hold the inner tube in one hand with the outer tube in the other hand and extend them against eachother lightly and this would pop the seals out, after you remove the keeper ring and dust cap of course.By lightly I mean get a little harder each time until you see them start to move. The dust cap was easy to get out with a small screwdriver It's defiantly better to take the forks all the way apart so you can clean them well. you need to use a bushing driver either way when you put them back together. Sometimes when someone you trust tells you a faster easier way it's tempting to give it a try. I knew what the manuel said but I know from my dad being a mechanic for years it's like everything, sometimes people find easier ways that wasn't thought of before....I still feel better taking them apart.LH

JasonWho · Nov 4, 2004

canyncarvr · Nov 4, 2004

Yeah...I want to hear about separating the fork tubes by taking the top cap/spring off and then 'tapping' the tubes apart.

Do as Jason said.

You will likely have to pound the pi$$ out of 'em to get them apart. That will damage the sliders (bushings) in the process. As long as they are apart, you might as well replace those parts anyway. They aren't cheap.

You don't need a 'holder' if you have air to get the base valve out..most likely.

Be sure to (try to) make sure the valve is going to come out without spreading out a bunch of squished fork metal in the process. After a couple years of getting pounded, the fork leg will likely be pretty well molded over the valve. Don't just rip it out with an air tool or you may well fracture the fork body.

80psi isn't diddle as far as the force applied vs: the force required to get those seals out.

Good luck.

Custom KDX · Nov 4, 2004

I got em' out last night, after spending 15 bucks on a 14mm hex head for my impact wrench. That buzzed the buttom bolt out in a couple seconds. Then the tubes pulled right apart. No Prob. :yeehaw: I didn't damage anything when I was previously pullin on it. :|

That guy who cleaned up that nick in the tubes... did that same seal go bad real fast again or was it fixed. Also how big was that nick.

tn220 · Nov 4, 2004

Canyncarver, I never said that I separated the tubes completely. I said I got the seals out this way and no I didn't pound them in the process. They popped out with reasonable effort and I said more than once that the best way is to take them apart meaning to do them like the manual says. If you disagree or don't understand someones post theres a way of stating that without belittling them.

Yeah...I want to hear about separating the fork tubes by taking the top cap/spring off and then 'tapping' the tubes apart.

Jasonwho, I should have said "bushing" not "bearing" driver. Sorry for the confusion.I'll try to edit the post..LH

Who knows the most about changing fork seals???

Similar Topics

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency