Wierd clutch problem yz125

[brentn]

My brother's YZ 125 (03) has a strange clutch problem..
When the bike is off, you can put it in first and pull the clutch all the way in and the clutch is still engaged and the bike will not move.

If the bike is in idle, and you pull the clutch in all the way and pop it into first, it stalls but does not lurch forward at all.

If the bike is running and you put it in first with the clutch all the way in and give it high revs it will not stall, and when he of course lets the clutch out slowly he gets going no problem.

I checked his clutch cable and it seems to be ok, the tensioner on the lever is in fact all the way out so that the cable is nice and tight. I also checked the engine where the clutch cable hooks up to the clutch arm (is that the right name for it?) and it is defenitly moving quite a bit when you pull the clutch all the way in and out...

At first I thought that maybe his cable has stretched, but it's tight and looks like it's engaging fine, but it's not.

What could be wrong internally? Cause I'm thinking that this is probably the issue is something with the pressure plate maybe... I have no idea now.

Have any of you guys seen this kind of issue?

I really appreciate the help.

 

[Matt90GT]

your clutch plates are stuck together.

When is the last time you changed oil in the tranny?

First thing to do is dump the oil, open up the clutch cover, remove the pressure plate and all the clutch plates. Pry them apart, clean them and then reinstall back into the basket. Fill with oil and you should be fine.

 

[brentn]

awesome, thanks buddy. The bike has been abused, and my brother doesn't know jack **** or cares to know jack **** about maintaining it. He hasn't changed the tranny oil all summer, since he got the bike, when me and my other brother do our oil changes every time we go out for the weekend.

Is there a specific torque setting for the pressure plate bolts on this model of bike? Or should I just tighten them up and use some blue loctite in a criss-cross pattern?

Thanks for the help

 

[BSWIFT]

This is not a strange problem. Fairly common.
1st, you should have a small amount of play in the cable, about a dime thickness.
2nd, turn the gas off and lay the bike down on the left(gear shifter)side.
3rd remove the clutch cover and inspect the basket. The oil will remain in the bike.
2 posibilities.
First is "notched" clutch basket fingers. This can be repaired if it is not too severe. Remove the preasure plate, fiber, and metal plates if these are very rough, you'll need to go ahead and drain the oil and lightly file the clutch fingers. The plates need to freely expand when the clutch is engaged, the notches fight or prevent the expansion of the clutch pack. Check all of the plate splines and tangs for sharp edges and file lightly. Clean everything thoroughly and reinstall. Fill with oil and ride. If the notches are extreme, the real cure is a new basket, preasure plate, and clutch plates.
Secondly change the oil using a vicosity suitable to ambient temperature in which you ride. I personally use ATF Type F and change it often. @ a 1.59 a quart I can change it frequently. I've experienced better shifting and less clutch noise using ATF Type F. I you don't like this idea, use what is recommended by Yamaha, Yamalube. Great oil but a bit pricey in comparison. Whatever oil you use, change it ever 2-3 rides. You'll see improvement and your clutch will survive a bit longer.
Matt's advice is probably the FIRST thing to do.

 

[Johnisenberg]

I have a 1999 yz 125 an I was wondering does oil have to be in the case for clutch to have pressure because I tore mine apart an put new clutch cable an have no clutch pressure I just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong before I put oil in it.

 

[High Lord Gomer]

I have a 1999 yz 125 an I was wondering does oil have to be in the case for clutch to have pressure because I tore mine apart an put new clutch cable an have no clutch pressure I just wanted to make sure nothing was wrong before I put oil in it.

That has nothing to do with oil. If by "no clutch pressure" you mean that when you move the clutch lever you don't get any resistance and the clutch doesn't disengage....

A new clutch cable will require adjustment to get it to function properly. In addition to the adjustment at the clutch perch there is also an adjustment in the middle of the clutch cable. It is a metal section where one side can screw into/out of the other and has an extra nut to lock it into position. It sounds like the outer covering of the cable is not long enough so loosen the lock nut and screw the two halves apart until you get tension. Once you get it set to the correct length, tighten the lock nut again.

Ideally you want to the adjustment at the clutch perch in the middle of it's range and have 1 or 2 millimeters of slack that gets taken up before moving the clutch lever begins to disengage the clutch.

Let us know how it works!

 

[Johnisenberg]

I got pressure now but when i pull in clutch it not releasing at all if I shift it in higher gear it get easier to move but for some reason the clutch is not engaging is the clutches bad?

 

[High Lord Gomer]

First...what all did you take apart and what items did you replace?

If you replaced the fiber clutch plates and didn't soak them in oil beforehand, they could very well not allow any/much movement.

 

[Johnisenberg]

No it's a Hinson clutch I just bought the bike it's a 1999 yz 125 it had oil in it I got put top end in it an I was trying to figure out what wrong with clutch I got pressure but when I pull in clutch it not releasing an if I shift it up in like 6 it moves a little easier but still don't release all the way I was wondering what could cause it so I could replace it

 

[High Lord Gomer]

Ahh...so you didn't take the clutch apart at all, just drained the fluid when you changed the top end?

In that case, put transmission fluid back in it and start it up. It may be that it just needs to have in it to get back between the plates and it won't drag so much once warmed up.

It is also quite possible that the basket is notched and the grooves are keeping the plates from separating when you pull the clutch lever. I put together a step-by-step set of instructions a few years ago for replacing clutch plates in an FZ1.

http://themxtrack.com/Fizzy/FizzyClutch.html

In it are some pictures of an ok clutch basket:

http://themxtrack.com/Fizzy/DSC01865.JPG

as well as a damaged one

http://themxtrack.com/Fizzy/DSC01597.JPG

 

[Johnisenberg]

I haven't changed top end yet so it not running but the clutches had oil in the case they were soaked with oil an someone had spring to tight an I wasn't getting any pressure but now I do but it not releasing the clutches it might be because basket notched it had notches in it an I filed em a little bit but might need it more I tried turning the steel plates when I had it apart an it was little rough to spin the plates so I don't know if clutches an plates are bad an springs or if it the basket but I filed it pretty good so I'm thinking it plates or clutches or springs because it won't release an it got new clutch cable an I adjusted it all the way out an it still don't disengage all the way

 

[Stevepalmyz125]

So ive got a question. I've got a 99 yz125 rebuilt top and lower end along with the clutch pack and cable. Now when I start it up and drop it in 1st it dies as if I didn't even pull the lever. I've done EVERYTHING. I don't know what else to do. SO MUCH MONEY into this thing and have yet to ride it. Please hello

 

[Okiewan]

Did you replace the clutch basket as well?

 

[The Redrider]

Basket is worn out. The fingers in the inner and outer baskets are alloy and wear little notches which cause the plates to lock in place. You could file em' smooth but don't take off too much material. Its a long process, and you must clean the surfaces clear of alloy shavings. Those fingers must be smooth as glass on both the inner and outer clutch hub. Or as Okie says time for a new basket kit...

 

[Stevepalmyz125]

The basket looked just fine when I put the pack

 

[The Redrider]

Did you put the plates in the correct order? Is the lifter and its components installed correctly, you would be surprised if you omit something, just a few milli meters off and you will have issues. Pull it apart and verify that every thing is working correctly, if something is worn replace it, if the cable is out of adjustment, re adjust it. If it ran and drove fine before you messed with it, then it should be ok when you repair it. If you have to, pull every thing apart and start from the beginning, take your time and don't omit anything. Hope y'all have your shop manual handy for reference, other wise your spinning your wheels...

 

[Wozman]

My yz125 is the same way , just get used to putting it in neutral to push it when not running..