WR426 set up

You can order everything from www.bajadesigns.com

Acerbis mirror...about $10
Hyd brake switch.....about $19

The WR has a dual filament tail light. All you need to do is put power to one brake switch wire and run the other to the third wire coming off the rear light.

Other recommendations...
Pull the bike apart and grease everything. My WR was dry.
Check the spokes often. Mine seem to always loosen.
Be careful when tightening the oil filter cover bolts.
Get a torque wrench and a manual.

Have fun

How often do you change the oil in yours?

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I change mine every 2 - 3 rides.

What all did you do to yours?

Is the grey wire even worth the trouble?
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removed the air box lid
FMF Q
IMS tank
Scotts damper
suspension revalved and new springs
03 yz cam

I have a Canadian WR. It doesnt have the grey wire or throttle stop. So I cant really say if it makes a difference.

The banjo bolt brake light switch is the best thing to go for in my opinion. so simple and unobtrusive to install and protect. look in dennis kirk, white bros, or parts unlimited catalogs for it.

I seen a neat clamp for you clutch perch that has a boss that the rearview mirrror threads into I belive white bros carried them. Yamaha XT mirrors are a good thing to fashion your ideas after. the left mirror had a a normal thread post the right mirror had a counterclockwise thread , not only did the mirrors fold in over the handlebar cross bar but if you happen to lay the bike down the mirrors withthem out they would spin with its single post threading instead of snapping.

UFO makes a liscense plate hangar that will bolt on the back of motocross fender that has turn signals built in. I believe acerbis has hand guards with turn signals. You can get a cheap handle bar switch for around 50$ that will have all the functions for legal lighting.

I have made my own d/s kit and it is a lot of work and this is a quick rundown of the cost

liscense plate holder with turn signals 50$
2 banjo bolt brake light switches 25$
12v lead acid video camera battery 50$
handle bar switch 50$
regulator rectifier 25$
front turn signals 15$
countless trips to radio shack for electrical tape, connectors , wire , zip ties, wire loom,solder,heat shrink tubing , cable clamps etc etc 100$ nickel and dime at a time with a lot of extras stuff now settingin the garage<spools of wire,cable clamps etc>
plenty of hours making a harness then rewiring it just becuase I didnt like the way it looked or wanted something else.lots of stupid stuff that was unnessecary like not finding a color wire that matched the switch harness so I woudl dissamble the switch and change it s color to match.

I have over 265$ in parts from my quick probably inaccurate guesstimate I still have no horn or rear view mirror yet with plenty of hours of working on the bike and doing homework<made my own lighting coil> tied into the bike. In my opinion call BAja Designs, Electrix or Dakar and see if they have a kit for what you want. for 400$ to 500$ dollars for the complete kit that you could install in a sat. afternoon cleanly sounds like a very reasonable way to go.

I am 5'11 200lbs and with a stock wr tank and seat I like the Jimmy Button bend bars for setting back and cruising/un aggrasive trail riding but they are uncomfortable for standing up in the attack position for me. these handlebars are wide with lots of sweep back plus the way the rise is bent ,if you use bark busters ,street legal lighting switch, and a hydraulic clutch you cannot cut them down for tight woods and expect everything to fit nice. The cr high bars are a very nice compromise for all I want to do haven't tried anything else though.

Originally posted by slow426
I took the baffle out of the exauhst, am gonna remove the air box lid.

Have the yz throttle stop, and yamaha gytr exhaust insert on order.

I'm pretty sure it has a 165 main jet in it already. The jetting seems to be fine the way it is. I've read up on the bk mod, and the grey wire removal. Would it be ok to just clip the grey wire. Is it even worth it (is there an increase in performane?). I'm too chicken to do the bk mod.


Any other suggestions or hints.

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I've had great success running a YZ needle in uncorked/uncovered WRs. It may run pretty cleanly w/ the WR needle, but you don't know what you are missing. Twelve dollars well spent IMO. Changing the timing doesn't affect the jetting in my experience, although the idle characteristics are different and may need some speed and fuel screw changes. I think WR timing does have its advantages in a smoother power delivery.

The '00 needs the BK mod desperately, the '01 badly, and the '02 barely. I woudn't go without it, it is no harm/no foul type of mod, the '01 has an overly generous accelerator pump and your throttle response should be markedly improved once you cut down the pump operation by about 50% (or more). The carb body is very soft and not hard to drill or tap at all. Only marginally more difficult than screwing in a light bulb. I don't really see how you could damage your carb trying...

A lot of guys also disable the air cut valve, but I haven't had too many problems with leaving it intact. If you have issues at low throttle settings that you can't readily deal with then you should consider plugging the ACV vacuum port.


Hope this helps.