I was unable to E-mail MX-TECH from your ad so I would like to know you recommendations for suspension setup for a 185 lb rider in the roots/mud and some rocks in PA woods on a new 250F. I haven't ridden it yet, but assume that it will not be right for these conditions.
YZ250F
- Thread starter cjKTM
- Start date
I'm in the same situation. I also have a 250F and will be racing Harescrambles in NJ,PA,MD,NY. I need some suggestions on how to setup my suspension. I do not want to send it out to be worked on. I am 185lbs and I have rode the bike twice and it is very stiff. I know that it needs to be broken in for awhile, but it will still be to stiff. Any help would be great
Jeremy Wilkey
Owner, MX-Tech
- Jan 28, 2000
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- 0
If you guys are doing tight rcky woods it's posible stock springs are ok. What do your sag numbers indicate.
Anyway the componets on your bikes do break in but it is a minimal impacting variable.
Try running tbings softer but the bike was set-up for the average motohead....
Regards,
Jer
Anyway the componets on your bikes do break in but it is a minimal impacting variable.
Try running tbings softer but the bike was set-up for the average motohead....
Regards,
Jer
Jeremy Wilkey
Owner, MX-Tech
- Jan 28, 2000
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CJ,
Your ok..
Jer
Your ok..
Jer
Ivan Liechty
Member
- Aug 18, 1999
- 138
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Jer, what about the midvalve on the YZF 250?
Does it have one? I heard someone talking about the YZF's and saying that he removed the shims from the midvalve and that allowed the oil to move easier and he was able to use more of the suspension. He said that it was a good mod for Enduro/HS riders.
According to him the mid-valve helps racers who have large g-outs and a lot of whoops like on an SX track or something.
Does it have one? I heard someone talking about the YZF's and saying that he removed the shims from the midvalve and that allowed the oil to move easier and he was able to use more of the suspension. He said that it was a good mod for Enduro/HS riders.
According to him the mid-valve helps racers who have large g-outs and a lot of whoops like on an SX track or something.
Jeremy Wilkey
Owner, MX-Tech
- Jan 28, 2000
- 1,453
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Ivan,
ALL KYB 32125 (YZ) have midvalves.. They have been changed to float more than the 2000 which will make them less streesed and more likely to survive the ravages of time. However they are less effective which is bad. IMO removing the mid-valve is the bigest hack thing you can do... It proves you don't know what your doing..
The midvalve is tunable and some aplications need more or less but never none... It gives you midspeed compression, therby you don't have to make the base-valve as stiff fro low speed control and highspeed reponce..
Now before I get jumped on here I speak from exsperience on this issue.. Yes I am a mid-valve remover survivior
I have been free of mid-valve removal since I figured out how forks work..... LOL
Regards,
Jer
ALL KYB 32125 (YZ) have midvalves.. They have been changed to float more than the 2000 which will make them less streesed and more likely to survive the ravages of time. However they are less effective which is bad. IMO removing the mid-valve is the bigest hack thing you can do... It proves you don't know what your doing..
The midvalve is tunable and some aplications need more or less but never none... It gives you midspeed compression, therby you don't have to make the base-valve as stiff fro low speed control and highspeed reponce..
Now before I get jumped on here I speak from exsperience on this issue.. Yes I am a mid-valve remover survivior
Regards,
Jer
Ivan Liechty
Member
- Aug 18, 1999
- 138
- 0
So with a mid-valve what would work best for a combination type rider. In general terms would someone who rides 50/50 MX and woods benefit more from a change in the shims of the mid-valve or the bottom shims? More bottom and less mid-valve or some other type of combo?
Don't worry, you are still getting my forks when I get the $$ up but I am trying to learn a little
Don't worry, you are still getting my forks when I get the $$ up but I am trying to learn a little
Jeremy Wilkey
Owner, MX-Tech
- Jan 28, 2000
- 1,453
- 0
Ivan,
First you don't have to applogize for that question.. I will answer it wether I'm getting them or RT or someone far worse for that matter...
Now IF I where doing a set of YZ forks for your condtions I would
1.) Make them work sooner.... (Speed Range)
2.) Make them work more.... (Coeficent increase) (allows me more latitude with the high speed compression, and low speed on the base valve..) (If you rob from petter you had better pay paul for something better..LOL)
3.) Looking at the big picture let me reiterate.. ALL these systems work in unison in terms of the ride qulaity and independelty
in terms of componets. I think the wisest plan is to exaim them as componets and make changes that will provide the best combination in terms of overall performance.
IE The KX has a mid-valve a little firm evenb for my tastes, The YZ has a stock mid-valve so soft i wonder why they even bothered putting it in.. However these forks still don't have a (borrowing from Mendalavin Genitcs)phenotype that would be so obvoius.. This illistrates the importance of the sytem set-up...
Regards,
Jer
First you don't have to applogize for that question.. I will answer it wether I'm getting them or RT or someone far worse for that matter...
Now IF I where doing a set of YZ forks for your condtions I would
1.) Make them work sooner.... (Speed Range)
2.) Make them work more.... (Coeficent increase) (allows me more latitude with the high speed compression, and low speed on the base valve..) (If you rob from petter you had better pay paul for something better..LOL)
3.) Looking at the big picture let me reiterate.. ALL these systems work in unison in terms of the ride qulaity and independelty
in terms of componets. I think the wisest plan is to exaim them as componets and make changes that will provide the best combination in terms of overall performance.
IE The KX has a mid-valve a little firm evenb for my tastes, The YZ has a stock mid-valve so soft i wonder why they even bothered putting it in.. However these forks still don't have a (borrowing from Mendalavin Genitcs)phenotype that would be so obvoius.. This illistrates the importance of the sytem set-up...
Regards,
Jer
Ivan Liechty
Member
- Aug 18, 1999
- 138
- 0
The biggest surprise here is that I actually understand what you are saying. Not to a point where I could repeat it with any sense of intelligence
Thanks Jer.
Thanks Jer.
Jeremy Wilkey
Owner, MX-Tech
- Jan 28, 2000
- 1,453
- 0
Vic,
No I have not mixed my YZ's or KX's.. What is it that confuses you? I thinking this is going to be a good thread.. I got exited when I saw your question...
I think I know where this is going but I'd rather not assume.. Please fire away..
Regards,
Jer
No I have not mixed my YZ's or KX's.. What is it that confuses you? I thinking this is going to be a good thread.. I got exited when I saw your question...
I think I know where this is going but I'd rather not assume.. Please fire away..
Regards,
Jer
- May 5, 2000
- 4,008
- 0
Jer- My ' 98 YZ 250 forks were very harsh on braking bumps. A local tuner radically softened up the base valve, after which I could detect NO difference in the fork action. He determined that the problem was with the overly stiff mid valve and that the best thing to do would be to remove it. This created other problems (surprise!), but did make the forks work much better on braking bumps (we spoke briefly on the phone about this, a few years ago). That's why I was surprised to read your comment about the YZ valve being so soft. Maybe things have changed, since then? Or, maybe the correct approach would have been to stiffen the base valve so as to take some of the load off of the mid valve?
[This message has been edited by Vic (edited 02-09-2001).]
[This message has been edited by Vic (edited 02-09-2001).]
SUnruh
Member
- Aug 24, 1999
- 49
- 0
Vic,
i'm confused by your post as well.
on my '98yz250 the forks were a nightmare.
the initial travel was very harsh. the mid was soft and then they would bottom harshly. almost as if the entire action was 180 degrees opposite of what it should be. this was for harescamble racing. i would cringe on square/braking bumps and it felt like my radius/ulna were gonna snap. finally i bit the bullet and set it off to Factory Connection (not knowing any better). they re-valved (removed the mid-valve too) and it was worlds better. since then i've ridden mx-tech showa's and sent it back to FC for a "you can do better" redo. they did, but still not awesome. i had Shocknut do my '01YZ250F. best i've ever ridden.
i'm confused by your post as well.
on my '98yz250 the forks were a nightmare.
the initial travel was very harsh. the mid was soft and then they would bottom harshly. almost as if the entire action was 180 degrees opposite of what it should be. this was for harescamble racing. i would cringe on square/braking bumps and it felt like my radius/ulna were gonna snap. finally i bit the bullet and set it off to Factory Connection (not knowing any better). they re-valved (removed the mid-valve too) and it was worlds better. since then i've ridden mx-tech showa's and sent it back to FC for a "you can do better" redo. they did, but still not awesome. i had Shocknut do my '01YZ250F. best i've ever ridden.
