03 CR250 Newbie Questions

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Oct 10, 2006
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#1
I am getting ready to pick up a 2003 CR250. Its in fantastic shape! I did the pre-buy inspection.........bearings, sprockets, steering, tires, rims, brakes, etc.........everything looked good and solid. Took it for a ride and it ran very smooth. It had been sitting for a bit but it fired fairly quickly.

The rest of the family has bikes that are pretty easy to maintain and keep running smoothly .......PW50, TT-R50, and a TT-R125............but I had a few questions about keeping this bike running smooth. I don't have alot of experiences with bikes except changing plugs, oil.........never had to do any jetting or other maitenence.

What is the right fuel mixture you guys are running in these? What type of oil are you mixing and with what octane? The only mods to the bike are an FMF silencer and handlebars. I will probably go with a pipe eventually.

Could someone also explain a few simple terms to me? What exactly does a sterring damper do??? And what is "over-rev"?

Thanks for the help! This is a great site with great people! :nod:
 
Joined
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#2
i have a '96 cr250 and I run HP2 at 32:1 mixture with 93 octane gas. A steering damper helps slow down all the little jerks and over-corrections that riders make while trying to steer through rough terrain.
 
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#3
Welcome to the site and congrats on the new bike. I also have an 03 CR250R and love it. I run 32:1 using Mobil 1 Racing 2T Synthetic. I also use Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w-40 Synthetic in the tranny. I have used other products in the past, but these are readily available at my local Autozone and have worked great so far. My current mods are a Pro-Circuit Works pipe and R304 silencer, Applied triple clamps, Renthal Bars, and V-force reeds. I do mostly trail riding so I didn't go very crazy with it. Jetting has been a little hit and miss so I just ordered a JD Jetting kit for the bike. I have heard great things about the kit and for $75.00 I thought it was a good investment.

A cut and paste from Scotts explaining a Steering Damper:

What is a Scotts Steering Stabilizer?

It is a compact, fully adjustable, hydraulic shock absorbing stabilizer that mounts to your steering head area right above your handlebar mount. By helping to stabilize the front end of your motorcycle, the rear of the motorcycle will track straighter allowing the rest of your suspension to work the way it was designed to. In addition, the Scotts Steering Stabilizer eliminates that sudden thrust affect of having the handlebars pulled from your hands after unknowingly hitting sharp edged rocks, tree roots or rain ruts. It has also been proven to help minimize rider fatigue and the dreaded arm pumping situation that occurs while wrestling the front end of your bike. Dirt Rider Magazine said, "A Scotts Steering Stabilizer is the single greatest improvement you can make to your motorcycle". Once mounted, it eliminates the unwanted phenomenon known as “Head-shake” that is commonly found on off-road production motorcycles. This is more predominant now a-days due to the steeper head angles you find on production bikes. It helps keep your motorcycle going straight in the whoops and smooths out the rocky sections by preventing those handlebar wrenching jolts and more than likely will help keep you a healthier, happier rider.

How does it work?

Basically, it operates under the same principle as your front forks. Valving inside the unit reacts to the slightest of jolts that are transferred through the forks and crowns of your motorcycle. Internal circuitry and hydraulic valving absorbs the energy that would have been received through your handlebars. The link arm which connects the stabilizer to the frame, reacts instantaneously, absorbing any unwanted movement. Your suspension was designed to handle the vertical movement of your motorcycle. Scotts Steering Stabilizer completes your suspension package by controlling the unwanted horizontal movement that is continually transferred to your handlebars.


What is over-rev?

Its going way past the RPM's where the bike makes most of its power.


Hope that helps... :cool:
 
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#4
Mobil racing 2T at 32:1 here.........I'm just sorting my 03 out for trail riding......consider also a flywheel weight, lower gearing and Rad guards.....price out a radiator and you'll soon see why you should have them. It's sounding to me like a steering damper would be a good investment.
 
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#5
Great info! That's exactly what I was looking for! I appreciate your responses! Once I get used to the bike somewhat I will look at getting a sterring damper. Sounds like a more than wise investment. I am looking foward to getting it out in the woods and maybe a little track riding.
 
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#7
I have the same bike as well. I run mbile racing 2t with 94 octane Chevron fuel. I just bought a jd jetting kit as well because my jetting is finicky. I bought rad guards after my first ride because i realized the hard way how easy it was to damage the rads. I also bought a carbon fibre pipe guard and i'm running the stock pipe and silencer. I geared mine down to a 51 rear for tight woods riding, but if i was to do it again i would have bought a 50 rear. I love my bike as well. Take it apart and grease the rear linkage and head tube bearings and enjoy ripping it up. Oh, forgot to mention i sealed the airbox joint where it meets the boot (used hondabond i think). 02 models had a leak here. I did mine just for cheap insurance.
 

psycho

King Rot-Gut
N. Texas SP
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#8
Gratz on the new bike. I think you'll find the '03 CR250 to be a worthy stead. I have enjoyed mine with minimal failures. I have been running the Silkolene pre-mix with 93 octane. I the gearbox I have been running Bel-Ray Gear Saver. Enjoy it!!
 
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#9
In my 03 I am runnig Belray H1R at 32:1 ratio (stock spec.). Mobil 1 10W40 automotive oil in gearbox - 95 octane pump gas.

Jetting: I lowered the needle 1 clip, and 1 size leaner pilot jet - compared to stock specs, I am at sea level stock spec. temperature range.

Good luck with the bike
 
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#10
Well,
I picked up the bike yesterday! Exciting to finally get it home!

BUT, After getting it unloaded, I fired it up to take a few hot laps around the neighborhood just because I was so pumped to ride it.

I fired it up and it ran for about 15 seconds with the choke on, then died. I tried to get it fired again, but to no avail. Maybe I should have took the choke off right after it fired?

I figured I flooded it so I let it sit for about 30-40 minutes, then tried again, but still couldn't fire it. Could it be fouled plug? I know the gas has been sitting for a long time, but it fired and ran fine when I first looked at it a few weeks ago. I noticed a small bit of gas dripping from one of the tubes underneath, is this normal? I figure it can't be that tough to figure out since it did fire right up.

I was going to do a thorough cleaning today........drain the old gas and refill with 32:1, change the plug, tranny oil, adjust and lube the chain, and begin to try and figure out the suspension settings.

But to be honest, I don't have much experience with these bikes, only the kids little bikes that are a piece of cake to maintain.

Any suggestions or insight to get it fired?
Again, thanks for the help!
I will post pics once I get it cleaned up!
 

IndyMX

Crash Test Dummy
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#11
New gas and plug, it should fire right up...

I'd think about tearing down the carb and giving it a good cleaning though. Chances are it's gummed up from sitting with old gas in it.
 
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#13
Cooldude,
What is the reason for running 40:1 versus 32:1? I hear both ratios being used. Is there an advatage to using 40:1 over 32:1?

I have never had to take off or take apart a carb like this before and it seems a bit scary.........I have the manual and it seems pretty straight forward.........is it really that big of deal? At this point I don't want to screw something up before I even get to ride!

I figure its just the plug and gas.........

Also, what is the best way to drain the old gas? Just pop the line off the petcock and let it drain? or is there another method that works better?

Thanks for the tips!!
 
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#14
I was looking at the manual again, and if I am reading it correctly, I can just slip the boots off each side of the carb, then just rotate it and pull the float bowl plug and drain the carb...........does that sound right?

I am going to put a new plug in, new gas, drain carb, and hopefully it will be good to go. Taking off the carb doesn't really look as scary as I thought once I read through the manual half a dozen times reading the procedure........
 
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#15
The carbs on modern 2-strokes are fairly simple. You obviously have the manual, which is great. I would suggest pulling it apart and cleaning it. If you're going to loosen the clamps and turn it to take the bowl drain out, it's only another ten minutes tops to take it out. If it has sat it's definately worth doing, just my 2 pennies.