1999 KX250 Transmission oil

[inotocracy]

I've ordered a service manual, but need to replace the transmission oil before the weekend. Anyone here know how much and what kind I should use? I've got some Belray 80w in the garage, would that suffice?

ps: been googling, haven't found any answers.. still searching.

edit: found a forum discussing the topic. Guy has a manual and it says to use belray 80w, but doesn't say how much. Anyone know how much to use?

 

[RM85rider123]

yes, you could use bel ray 80 or 85W. The amount of oil to put in might be shown on the crankcase somewhere.

 

[jdager]

there should be a glass window on the right side of the bike. I usually refill it till the window is about half way or a little more full when the bike is sitting level, not leaning over on the triangle stand. make sure you give the oil time to drain down and level out before reading it, and then check it again after running it for a few minutes. I just use a good quality like 10w40 weight oil, and change it regularly. not sure if all of that is exactly correct, but it is what I do and it has worked out just fine, Im sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.
Jim

 

[jdager]

from my understanding, it is much more important to use a good quality two stroke mix oil in your gas, where as the type of oil used in the transmission is not AS important since you are changing it often. I am sure there are expensive oils out there that are probably much better than regular motor oil, but I dont know if the benefits outweigh the cost

 

[inotocracy]

Cool, never noticed the window but I'll give it a look, thanks for the tips. Wouldn't be a big difference if I used the 80w over the 10-40w? I've got some Belray already that i used on my 96 CR250 so wouldn't mind putting that to use (couple unopened liters).

 

[jdager]

from what i have read, and again, I may be wrong, but I think that 80w transmission oil is about the same as a 10w30 or 10w40 motor oil. I think the transmission oils and motor oils are measured in different ways, but I think those are about the same so I think you should be fine

 

[Sandman 2.0]

Automatic Tranmission Fluid type F works great in any 2 stroke tranmission. It is designed for wet clutches and has high shear strength. It can be had at walmart and autozone for short change so changing it out often is very inexpensive. 10W40 or 10w30 also works fine but you will most likely notice improved clutch action with the ATF.

 

[inotocracy]

Thanks for the tips guys! I'll check the crank case for the amount and look into ATFtF.

 

[dirtfreak200]

clutch saver sx

 

[bwood]

We used Honda Gear Oil 85W90 or 80W85 (I can't remember the exact weight). I got it at the Honda shop for about $6-$7 a quart.

 

[inotocracy]

Oh my! I made a major booboo. When changing oil on my bikes I'll usually borrow my neighbor's torque wrench.. well he wasn't home today. Can you guess what happened? Yes, the drain bolt snapped. I got it to where it was snug and barely gave it a little push and it snapped right off. :bang: :bang: :bang:

So, since this hasn't ever happened to me before.. how much do you think it would cost to get the remaining part of the bolt out?

 

[Airbus]

If there's some of the bolt shaft you can get to, try slotting it with a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. You might be able to turn it out with a flat blade screwdriver that way....try that before spending money...

 

[inotocracy]

I was wondering about that, thanks for the tip. Got another question.. the oils been changed, the bolt is all the way in there (well, where the head stops).. think it would be alright to ride for a day? Its been so long and I really wanted to ride this weekend. I don't think it would pop out but would it be possible to make it a bit harder to get out in the long run?

 

[inotocracy]

Cancel that, not gonna go ride. Need a replacement lever for my ASV so rather than pay for it I'm just gonna wait for the replacement to arrive in the mail.

 

[bwood]

I wouldn't ride it until it was repaired. If the head is gone, the remaining part of the bolt probably isn't tight. It is the base of the bolt head that you are torquing down against the bottom of the engine. You might try to gently make a small dimple in the end of the bolt and use a 1/8" drill bit in reverse to grab it a pull it out. What ever you do don't do anything that might screw the bolt in further.

 

[inotocracy]

I don't have a dremel, but I do have a power drill. So running the drill in reverse with a 1/8 bit directly in the center might turn it out?

 

[inotocracy]

Read a bit more and I should be using a left hand drill bit (extractor) in reverse, thanks again guys! Once I get my replacement plug in I'll give it a shot. Will update!

 

[inotocracy]

Got my replacement drain bolt & washer, and extractor bits. Still waiting on my manual and I can't seem to find the torque spec, does anyone know? A common spec seems to be 13 or 14lbs but that isn't specific to my bike. Anyone know for a 99 KX250?

 

[bwood]

That sounds about right. I tighten until it feels snug enough not to leak and safety wire it.

 

[inotocracy]

I got my replacement bolt in, new ASV brake lever, new grips and of course a new torque wrench ;) so I took the time and got to work. Those reverse drill bits worked like a charm! At first I got a bit spooked cause it was drilling in a ways, then it caught and unscrewed, here is a pic of the drain bolt stub about half way out (when I started it was inside quite a bit)...

And here she is extracted:

Oh I'm so proud :D time to ride!