2000 RM 125 Clutch / Shifting Problem.

the earlier rm gearboxes were know for weakness-you need to dissassemble the engine and look for damage, they tend to allow the shifter to go too far and it does major damage.

Yes:) seriously it could be something small or a whole gearbox-you need to get in have a look around.

VinnyTAMU said:

well I took the bike out this morning and rode the bike down the street. The bike still has the problem of when shifting to 1st with the clutch pulled in still stalls the bike. How can I fix this?

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This is usally notched clutch baskets. Search here for "rm 125 clutch basket" or "clutch creep" and you should find many threads on this. Just open up the clutch cover, and you can see if the basket is notched. If the baskets are notched you can file them (if they are not too bad), or buy a billet basket or steel inserted basket.
The shifter sticking up or down, I don't know, but I think Marcus has said, you'd have to split the case and look around.

I don't know if this will help at all but my 2000 RM250 had selection problems which got worse quite quickly, and then the shifter stuck and refused to find any gears at all. I ended up splitting the cases and discovered the dogs on several gears badly worn, having been sure that the shift forks were bent I checked carefully and they were perfect. Also, the little engagement dogs in the shift drum were very worn, so I replaced these also. The first thing to check before completely splitting the cases are the two screws which hold the shifter drum mechanism, these can sometimes work loose and cause problems, and it would be great if you could just loctite them and solve the problem ! As regards the clutch drag, I think that they all did that from new. I replaced the stock basket with a Hinson, but it still did it, although the old basket was worn anyway so the change was worth it. However just recently I replaced the clutch fibre plates and was pleasantly surprised to find that the bike can now be started in gear, there's no jerking and grabbing on the line, and the pull is easier also. I guess the old plates were past due. One other thing is to be very careful if trying to draw file the fingers in your existing basket, if you do not file each one exactly the same then the load will not be evenly distributed to individual fingers, and you may well end up with a bigger bill than ever. If the basket is badly notched, best to junk it and invest in a quality replacement. The Clymer manual is pretty good if doing this work yourself, as I discovered after I had done mine ! They have a good illustration of the order of gears, circlips, washers etc and the way they all fit together. When splitting the cases you shouldn't need to remove the crank from the ignition side, and on the 250 anyway its not too hard to remove the crank from the clutch side with the usual applications of heat/cold etc and a tool you can make yourself. Hope this helps.

I can't really give an estimate any use because things over here tend to cost more than in US. A Hinson is a good buy, I think I would be inclined to do the clutch first and see what happens. If you do split the cases you shouldn't need to use a shop press to reassemble, but you will need a freezer and a heat gun.

I would use std plates, as alot of the aftermarket stuff is junk.

I never ever shift with the clutch.