2003 kdx 200

kdx are sensitive to this problem.you must inspect this bearing every ride and grease verry often.to give you a idea i replace this bearing twice a season.

to inspect put your bike on a stand and check for loose by moving swing arm up and down.

at your point you should not ride the bike anymore.You have to dissasemble the thing and bring it to a machine shop to insert a sleeve in the broken hole or buy a new one.

Bearings don't come well lubed from the factory.
If you have ridden alot through water or power washed your bike and sprayed it directly onto the linkage area, you have had water come into the bearings, rust and crumble to bits.
How to fix this. take the linkage off the bike and get new bearing. Place it up near the hole and see what roundedness has occured and nicks of metal are in the way. Maybe it is just nicked and a small file can help you out. If you have rounded it, well maybe your toast. Someone may have a fix like jpweld but I am not sure it it will withstand pressures placed on it.
This would be a good time to also take the whole swingarm off and inspect those bearings too. To check if they are toast even before you take the s-arm off, raise the bike so the s-warm is hanging there. With the linkage bit off, raise and lower the swingarm(tire off too) and if any grinding is felt when moving it about, you know you have some more money to shell out.
The needle bearing for the shock is the most vulnerable one of the bunch but it sounds that since it is totally gone, you have more troubles to go through.

I avoided this problem and avoid replacing the bearings by installing greasing zerks on the wishbone, suspension linkage and swingarm pivot. I posted some pictures on the web. Of course, I remove the zerks prone to damage and install a pressure plug for riding. No mo problemo.

Good luck.

http://groups.msn.com/KDXRidersCommunity/zerkyourkdx.msnw

No-one else seems to have a problem with this.....I'm lost somewhere.

re: 'I noticed that the bearing and bushing in the connection of the rear shock to the swingarm assembly where totaly gone!'

This is a reference to the bottom shock mount, correct? Where it bolts to the unitrack? The unitrack has the bearing press-fit. Is this, 'Both sides of the s arm are sealed by plates' a reference to the bottom of the shock?

What does that have to do with, 'The S arm is toast ..'? Is the 'S arm' the swingarm? For $120?

Huh?

There is no bearing and bushing. There is a bearing and a sleeve. The bushing is on the TOP of the shock. What about the grease seals that fit on either side of the lower shock mount bearing. Where were they? They aren't going to disappear.

I haven't priced a unitrack knuckle. $120 sounds cheap considering what oem kawi prices usually are.

AND I don't think you'll get everything you need bearing-wise for $65. You need seals for the shock mount, the pull rods and sleeves for everything.

Even bolts for crying out loud if that has been the 'bearing' surface. Last bolts I got for my devol pullrods were $15/ea..and the nuts were $5!!

Something is very wrong with this picture.

Welcome to the club. If the shock mount bearing was destroyed and the bolt/sleeve was riding directly on the rocker arm, then the rocker arm hole is probably galled and elongated. If it is, then the rocker arm is toast and you’ll need a new one. About $125 two three seasons ago when I had to buy mine. Sometimes you can find one on ebay, but don’t count on it. You’ll also need a Pivotworks bearing kit (~$78) which is cheaper than buying all the bearings, sleeves and seals from Kawi. The small shock bearing needs to be inspected and greased 2 –3 times a year. It will last a good while if you keep to that minimum schedule. The swingarm and larger rocker bearings will last indefinitely if you take care of them. Water is the enemy. Never ever spray a pressure washer directly at the rocker arm.