99 Honda CR250R Rebuild help/advice

[GOIN'_HUGE]

Sup guys,

This is my first post so be easy with me. I have my CR250 for a little over 8 months now (1st dirt bike), I have loved every minute of riding it. The kid I bought it off of (for only $1000) had got it from ebay and had it for a little over a year. He had never rebuilt it , he thought that the guy he got it from hadn't rebuilt it in about 2 years. Don't get me wrong, it runs great, its fast as all get out, and I have NO problems with the speed, powerbands or gears, fluid levels and no leaks.

However, I am having a couple of issues so a friend talked me into buying a Wiseco Piston, Rings, and Full gasket set. The issues that I speak of are:

1. Takes a good 5 mins of kicks (with the choke on) to start it cold. Very little compression when trying to kick start it.
2. It NEVER idles.
3. The clutch is all or nothing. It is VERY touchy. Very easy to stall on.

My question is. I have been checking out the forum for a couple of days now, and most of the topics I see on the rebuilds speak about replacing bearings as well. Is this needed in my situation? And is what I am doing going to fix the problems listed above (obviously I need to open up the clutch to see whats the deal) if so great, if not.. What should I do.

Thanks for all you help in advance, and I apologize for the length, 1st post, 1st rebuild on the 1st dirtbike so Im a little nervous on doing it. :blah: :blah:

Also, my friend said there was a site that would walk me through step by step in the whole process of the rebuild, he deleted the bookmark, but would anyone out there know what site he is speaking of? We can not find it again....

Thanks
Goin' HUGE

 

[Reesknight]

You need to buy a service manual. Clymer is pretty good and will walk you step by step in replacing the top end. If its been 3 years since the last top end, I wouldn't even start it again till its replaced. If the piston skirt breaks, we're talking major damage. Replace the top end, put a new spark plug in it, and sounds like you could use new clutch plates. The manual will tell you how to replace all of it. Good Luck!

 

[Cman250]

Hey im sort of in the same situation as you. Im goin to be rebuilding my 02 CR this summer. If your looking for topends this should fix you up with everything you need in a affordable package http://www.motosport.com/offroad/product/WISECO-PROLITE-PISTON-KIT/?prodId=2522&nav=&sMMY=&cat0=DIRT

As far as the issues with your clutch, it seems as though new clutch plates, and maybe a new clutch basket would do you a world of difference.

 

[lestat357]

im rebuilding a 98. and i bet you will need most if not all new bearings the simplest way of checking wheel bearings is putting the bike on a stand and wiggling the wheels side to side if you can you need new wheel bearings good luck

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

I would inspect the bottom end very good, or just rebuild the motor and be done with it. The link above to motorsport had complete engine kits for a reasonable price. Models vary, you can go straight to wiseco, do not be looking at the clutch basket just yet. That will need carefully inspection also. and definitely get a good shop manual, preferably from honda. http://www.wiseco.com/Catalogs/DirtBike.aspx, Go there and download the file for your bike.

 

[zaneyzrex]

1. low compression - do a compression check and im betting its REALLY close to the 100psi no go starting point .
2. clutch basket sounds notched - pull clutch, pull basket, fill tabs on basket to get rid of notches, clean , reassemble , adjust clutch lever/cable correctly
3. how noisey is the top end, 2 strokes rattle like crazy on top when they get alot of wear. its your choice to keep riding if the rattles not to bad.
4. get a service manual and it will explain all
5. you dont have to worry about bottom end if the rod has NO UP AND DOWN MOVEMENT (it will move side to side that is normal) and the crank spins free w/ no sticky pionts/roughness. before you split the cases make sure the crank has no up/down movement at the bearings. if so then yes you need to split the motor and put in new crank bearings. might be worth your time anyways but thats your choice. those bearings will LAST A LONG TIME if you dont run the engine hot/no oil.
6. have a machinist check the cylinder and make sure its not overly worn at the exhaust side and you dont have any heavy score marks. if its way out of round have it replated and use your stock size piston rings.

 

[GOIN'_HUGE]

Thanks everyone for your advice. I will be going today to get a manual for it. It might be a while before my next post, but I plan on working on it after work everyday till I get it in the condition it should be in. Again I greatly apreciate it guys.

GOIN' HUGE

 

[dirt bike dave]

I had a '99 CR and loved it.

Sounds like you do need a piston and rings. However, the only time mine was hard to start was when the reeds went bad. They will warp and/or crack over time. If your bike has good compression and runs good once it is going, there is an excellent chance your reeds are causing the starting problem.

For mine, the starting drill when cold was to turn the gas and choke on. Lay the bike over on its left side for a good 10 seconds to get gas in all circuits of the carb. You want to see a bunch of gas flowing out of the overflow tubes onto the ground.

Pick it up. Do not touch the throttle. Kick the bike SLOWLY over a few times to prime it. After three slow kicks, find Top Dead Center by feeling the compression with the kick starter. As it gets easier to move the piston,you have just past TDC. Return the kicker to the top of the stroke, give about 1/16 throttle and KICK. Do not twist the throttle anymore than 1/16 open when kikcing (just a hair open). Starting your kick from TDC gives the motor maximum speed on the next compression stroke, increasing the chance of firing.

FWIW, OEM Honda parts are not that expensive at service Honda.

 

[m4i2k2e2]

i have a 99 cr250r. i had to rebuild my clutch. as stated before clymer is a good manual. i have one and its amazing. the clutch was not hard at all to re do. i got all the parts offline and, was not bad at all. open the cover and see whats wrong. make sure you buy your gasket along with the clutch kit. take pictures of how everything was before. your also going to need a 27mm socket. for the nut. i do not know about the top end. i havent done one myself yet. good luck.

 

[2strokerfun]

your also going to need a 27mm socket.

And having an air or electric impact wrench makes use of that socket a breeze.

 

[Reesknight]

And having an air or electric impact wrench makes use of that socket a breeze.

Definately beats the ol toothbrush between the gears trick! :cool:

 

[m4i2k2e2]

my sprocket was worn. i put a pipe in one of the holes of the sprocket and swing arm. i used a rag to protect the swing arm and, i put it in gear. an impact wrench would of been so nice.

 

[tony91]

I'm not sure of a link, but Eric Gorr's book OFF-ROAD PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK would be invaluable. About a week after buying a 92 CR250(same motor as yours.. a darn good one too), I had to do a total rebuild. I had no clue what I was doing. Eric's book was a life-saver though. The book has tons of great tips and tricks, and better even, model specific info. Sorry if this sounds like a commercial, but it was that helpful when I was a newb. Also, check out a Helm service manual here. I'm sure the Clymer will do the trick, but these are the "Genuine Honda" manuals. Good luck.

 

[GOIN'_HUGE]

Nice... Thank you guys for all of your advice. I actually have finished the rebuild.. The piston is perfect fit, I worked on the clutch cable itself, and it seems to feel better (I will know more when I run it). Work on it all around.. Even painted the plastics for fun.. Anyway, the only problem I am having now is that the compression is soooo good, it is killing my foot to try and kickstart it. I must have spent over an hour trying to start it tonight and it would only tease me.. Ran for about 2 secs each time, and could not get it to fully turn over.. Any suggestions? Advice? Has this happened to any of you before? I am sure everything is correct.. I even went back and double checked all the steps...

 

[tony91]

Ran for about 2 secs each time, and could not get it to fully turn over..

Can you kick the kickstart lever through its stroke?

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

Timing or sheared key? Double check that the magneto plate and the rotor are properly installed.

 

[GOIN'_HUGE]

Yes, I can get the kickstart to kick through, it is just REALLY tough. And as far as the timing, it was working good before I replaced the piston and did not remove or touch any of those parts so they should be working properly.. A quick addition to this, I pulled the spark plug to make sure that the fuel mixture was getting to it properly... Decided to check and make sure the cylinoid (s/p) is working properly. I held the plug by the rubber boot (everyone knows that the rubber would absorb the electric shock due to its electrical proplerties) and got the **** shocked out of me. I spoke to the local parts shop, they said that it might be a faulty spark plug wire not allowing it to spark without arching to the nearest source and probably being absorbed into the metal instead of spaking the spark plug. He advised wrapping it thourowly (s/p) with electrical tape and come by new wires tomorrow... So the game is afoot.. I shall try this too and see what happens.. Any advice is welcome and appreciated.

Thanks

 

[tony91]

Yes, I can get the kickstart to kick through, it is just REALLY tough.

How tough? A fresh top-end should make it a bit more difficult to kickover, but not terribly so. Are you sure you don't have ring hung-up or possibly a circlip that popped out?

 

[GOIN'_HUGE]

well that is what i thought might have happened dueto the pressure. so I took out the spark plug and kicked it... it went with considerable ease. I did so many times.. .So it has to be a normal pressure.. I just found out that i might have screwed up the timing. Still waiting on the manual to come in, but need to knwo asap... STUPID QUESTION ALLERT!!!!

Does the magnetic strip need to pass under the sensor when the piston is top dead center? Or at another position...

 

[whenfoxforks-ruled]

That is kind of an odd question. As long as your magneto plate is aligned with the mark on the case. Then take the rotor nut off and see if the key way slot and rotor slot are in alignment by the key. Then your timing should be close enough. Your engine should fire a little before TDC.

 

[GOIN'_HUGE]

ok.. So I am a HUGE IDIOT!!!! The Beast is up and running... Just got back from a quick trip around the block... I ended up taking a 17 mm wrench to the rotor nut, allowing some of the pressure to seep out, then BAM!!! I kick it and there we go... Did this about three times, and no it starts with one to two kicks.. Thank you guys again for all of your help and advice!!!! I will post pics of the painted beast in a few days, I need to put a clear coat on it on Tuesday.. After that, expect to see "the bleeder".. lmao

 

[m4i2k2e2]

I'm not sure of a link, but Eric Gorr's book OFF-ROAD PERFORMANCE HANDBOOK would be invaluable. About a week after buying a 92 CR250(same motor as yours.. a darn good one too), I had to do a total rebuild. I had no clue what I was doing. Eric's book was a life-saver though. The book has tons of great tips and tricks, and better even, model specific info. Sorry if this sounds like a commercial, but it was that helpful when I was a newb. Also, check out a Helm service manual here. I'm sure the Clymer will do the trick, but these are the "Genuine Honda" manuals. Good luck.

the genuine honda manual, are you talking about the manual that came with the bike? if so there 2 pages long. my clymer is a manual for my exact year make and model and, its over 300 pages long.

 

[tony91]

the genuine honda manual, are you talking about the manual that came with the bike? if so there 2 pages long. my clymer is a manual for my exact year make and model and, its over 300 pages long.

Naa, you'd buy the Helm after the fact and it's a full-on service manual. But don't get 'em in a bunch, I'm sure the cylmer is fine... choices are good too. :p