All clicked in time for heavier fork oil

[sr5bidder]

so my forks are all the way clicked in and I'm thinking of going from 5w to 10w and starting out at 10 clicks out.


I'm thinking heavier fork oil will slow compression like tightening the shim stack clickers.

only thing I'm second guessing about is the rebound dampening...hmm wonder if it will work out..

shimm stack mod done about 1year ago i theink

watcha think peeps??

 

[dirt bike dave]

Heavier oil will have a much bigger impact on the rebound than on the compression.

What problem are you having with your current set up?

If it is too soft and bottoms out too easily, raising the oil level will make a big difference in the 2nd half of the travel, but you should still be plush for the first few inches.

If it clearly does not have enough compression damping, I think you will get better results playing with the shims compared to changing the oil weight.

 

[sr5bidder]

well all clicked in with the shim stack mod is about perfect...but I'm all clicked in and would like to do something to keep my current permormance and be back in the middle of the adjustment range just incase I need to go a little more on compression

there is little info on here about the shims other than to take 2 or three out and I already did that. maybee time to look at gold valves...fredette was using the conventional forks in a isde video I watched and if he can win with them I have no reason to believe I can't make them work for my humble skills..

 

[Dirtdame]

I have the Gold Valve kit in my 03 220. It made a world of difference. I also went up from .35K springs to .38K. The stock springs are too soft even at my light weight, especially after the forks have the plush dual stage shim stacks and gold valves installed. The stock forks work great on everything from rocky technical stuff to big whoops once they have been properly tuned with the Racetech kit and the springs for your weight. :nod: :cool:

 

[sr5bidder]

forgot to mention I have race tech 38's installed aswell.

did you install the gold vale yourself Dirt Dame?

 

[Dirtdame]

forgot to mention I have race tech 38's installed aswell.

did you install the gold vale yourself Dirt Dame?

Yes, the kit has an access code in the paperwork, along with a master valving chart. You just go to the Racetech website and get your information about the valving after you put in your access code and all your stats. The code for the right formula will come up. Look at your master chart and circle the codes on it that match the codes on the website. I have used Racetech for forks and shocks on two bikes, and these kits work great. Be very sure to get your sag JUST the way the instructions tell you to, as it really affects the overall ride and handling of the finished product.

 

[dirt bike dave]

FWIW, I put gold valves in the fork and shock of my '91 KDX250 and it did help a lot.

I followed the RT questionerre and tables, but then decided to use a little less high speed compression damping in the fork than the stack RT recommended.

 

[glad2ride]

Stick with 5 weight oil. Check the oil level.

How old is the oil?

What is your weight with all your gear on?

The Gold Valves will allow a lot more adjustability and fine tuning than the stock valving.

 

[sr5bidder]

the oil is just over a year old

185#-190#

 

[dirt bike dave]

What is your oil level? Measured from the top with springs out and forks compressed.

 

[sr5bidder]

I wish I could remember Dave :bang:

I have not taken them apart yet, I am taking the kdx up to pretice copper saturday to test it out on the rougher less maintained trails and rocks to be sure the maxed out setting is good up there too.

 

[dirt bike dave]

Raising the oil level will mainly effect bottoming resistance and how stiff the fork is during the last half of the travel.

If you are never bottoming out or using all your travel, you can lower oil level.

All 3 of the KDXs I've owned had too little fork oil from the factory, and the forks were improved by raising the oil level.

FWIW, you can measure oil level with the forks on the bike. Just remember to loosen the pinch blots at the top of the fork tube before you try to loosen the fork caps, lol. I learned the hard way that the caps come out much easier when the pinch bolts are loose, lol.

 

[glad2ride]

What specific problem are you having? Are you bottoming out, blowing through the stroke, or what??

 

[julien_d]

My understanding is that he likes the way it's performing at current settings, it's just that the compression clickers are all the way in, leaving no room for additional adjustment if riding conditions change.

Am I understanding correctly?

 

[Dirtdame]

The problem that I had with my KDX was that it spiked in the middle of the stroke. If you look at what the later model KDXs have for valving, it's called an inverted shim stack and all the shims are the same diameter and thickness, so there is no progression in damping. Once you put in the Gold Valve kit, you end up with a better flowing piston valve and a dual stage tapered shim stack. It sure got rid of that spike or hard spot in the middle of the stroke, while making the bike more plush in the rocks and resistant to bottoming on big whoops.

 

[sr5bidder]

My understanding is that he likes the way it's performing at current settings, it's just that the compression clickers are all the way in, leaving no room for additional adjustment if riding conditions change.

Am I understanding correctly?

yes your picking up what I'm laying down :cool:

 

[sr5bidder]

Raising the oil level will mainly effect bottoming resistance and how stiff the fork is during the last half of the travel.

If you are never bottoming out or using all your travel, you can lower oil level.

All 3 of the KDXs I've owned had too little fork oil from the factory, and the forks were improved by raising the oil level.

FWIW, you can measure oil level with the forks on the bike. Just remember to loosen the pinch blots at the top of the fork tube before you try to loosen the fork caps, lol. I learned the hard way that the caps come out much easier when the pinch bolts are loose, lol.

I think I'll give that a try...I'm tempted to mix up some 10w and some 5w but they are from spectro and the company that uses "shock therapy" in their branding..just cant remember the brand right now.. supose I can use a clear glass and just a little from each container and see if they blend well together

 

[sr5bidder]

Hey I seached my self....seems I have 10wt in there now..maybee ..this was from a bit over a year ago

"yes I have 38 springs in the front and 10wt oil (I want 42kg fork springs if someone will comit to taking the 38's for $60)"

 

[mudpack]

...I'm tempted to mix up some 10w and some 5w ....and see if they blend well together

They will blend without problem. Mixing is okay if you already have both 10 and 5 weight fork oil...otherwise, just buy some 7.5 weight. PJ1 makes oil in that weight.
You might just try putting the correct amount of fresh 5 weight in, too.

 

[sr5bidder]

but if I'm running 10w now?

 

[julien_d]

I'd guess you need to go to the 42's. Had you modded the shim stack before? If you have removed any shims, you could try putting some of them back in.

 

[sr5bidder]

hell no JD.... I aint putting the shims back, it will make the high speed hits shake the junk out of my insides. I'm good for now where its at, just thinking ahead is all

 

[glad2ride]

If you have fresh 5 wt oil, with the oil set at the top of the level mentioned in the service manual, with the clickers turned all the way in, then you need stiffer springs based on what you have mentioned.

The clicker being turned in all the way means you need more low speed compression damping. The shims are for high speed, mostly.

 

[glad2ride]

Fork oil that is over one year old could be a problem.

I think the .38 springs are too soft for your weight in full riding gear.

Get some fresh 5 wt oil and some stiffer springs.

 

[sr5bidder]

read: I have 10w oil,38's and clicker all in

agree maybe time for 42's + gold valves; waiting to see if kx125 swap is likely (hybrid)