Another beginner keeps looping!

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Dec 30, 2003
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#1
Hi Guys,

I ride my RMX 250 on the trails here in the UK but I am getting adicted to the local MX tracks. I love clearing a 30ft table top on a neutral throttle at the end of a straighaway so I arnt afraid of big air (ha ha!) but my main problem is clearing 20-30ft table tops after corners with the throttle wide open in 2nd, when I do the bike just wants to loop, what am I doing wrong?, I am aware that a, im no good and b, the handle bars are not forward enough (different top yoke?) and c, the rear wheel is trying to turn the bike.

Any help or advice greatly appreciated.

SteveO
 
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#2
Search the forums there are some good answers to your questions such as preloading suspension to get more distance and such. JUST REMEBMER TO LEAN FOWARD! Oh yea and there are advanced techniques such as brake tapping in the air, but it sounds like you are going over pretty small jumps, so brake tapping could be a lil to complicated, remember to keep practicing and dont be afradi to get over the bars (LOOK AT BUBBA AND WHEN HE RACES LOOK AT HIS PCITURES ) that's my $.02, I hope it helps, even though i am not that great.
 

High Lord Gomer

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#3
The more power you are applying, the farther forward you should be. That goes for jumps as well as on the ground.
 
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#4
If at all possible, you may want to practice getting more momentum throughout the corner. This would allow you to go a gear higher. Other than listen to the previous advice you have been given, it's advice to take to heart. :thumb:
 
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#5
Cheers guys, I carnt wait to give your advice a go, just waiting for the tracks to open (about another month or two, darn winter!)

However, getting the weight forward might be a problem, I find it tiring getting weight over the front when trail riding up steep climbs due the cramped cockpit space on the RMX, I have turned the handlebars as far forward in the clamps as I dare but I would prefer to replace the top yoke to one that positions the handle bar further forward, any recommendations?
 

High Lord Gomer

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#6
Be careful rotating those bars too far forward. As you rotate forward, the ends come up and put your wrists in an awkard (and weak) position.

If you get forward in anticipation of accelerating (instead of in reation to it) and get back in anticipation of braking, it is much less tiring.

When trying different handlebars at the shop, remember to hold them down near your stomach (where you'll be using them) rather than straight out in front of you.
 

muddy226

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#7
You need to accelerate hard to the face of the jump and then roll off the throttle to a neutral position just as your front wheel is clearing the lip of the jump. This sounds easy, but isn't, when I try to do it I either chop the throttle too hard and endo, or hang on to the throttle just too long and then have to find a way of getting the front wheel lower than my head again ! The only way is practice, and once you have got it right a few times you will find that it comes naturally and you can do it without thinking. This is what to aim for, as I always find that having to think about it usually results in problems. The other way which some of the more advanced riders do is to use the clutch for the same effect, i.e pull the clutch just as your front wheel clears, thereby cutting drive. I found this very difficult so gave up on it, but more able riders seem to make it work. As usual, start small until you feel comfortable enough to go bigger. :thumb:
 

High Lord Gomer

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#8
Originally posted by muddy226
You need to accelerate hard to the face of the jump and then roll off the throttle to a neutral position just as your front wheel is clearing the lip of the jump.
I have to disagree with this approach.  Making any changes on the jump face can be disasterous if your timing is a little off one way or the other.  These include, but are not limitted to:
  • Blipping the throttle
  • Backing off the gas
  • Shifting gears
  • Sudden body position changes
All can have very different effects if you ar a little too early or too late.

I would suggest proper body position to counteract the additional power you are using.
 

fuzzy

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#9
Also keep in mind that your RMX has a wide ratio trans. 2nd gear is more like 1st on a motocross bike....Try third gear to help avoid looping...The RMX will more than likelyperform better short-shifting...
 
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#10
On the steeper jumps in particular you really need to be forward on the bike. I mean head over the number plate, ears over the triple clamp. (The exception is agressive sear bouncing, but that's a different story). Once I take off I let the rear of the bike come up and the front end drop for landing doubles and tables.

Sometimes on really steep, abrupt kickers you must approach a little slower so you don't bottom out harshly and get a bad rebound affect, then roll the throttle on pretty quick up the face as the bike stabilizes after hitting the initial jump incline.

I feel the brake tap is a last resort. If your body position is good you should be able to weight shift to keep the proper attitude. I will admit I have had to panic rev on occasion when the front is a little low, or when coming up short, but not in awhile.

I usually have the power on upon takeoff and landing. I practice the same jump over and over. This is a lot easier than doing it only once a lap. I look at the track as one obstacle at a time. I try not to think about what lies ahead or what is behind. Just the here and now, in my field of vision (I do try to look way ahead).

I often blip the throttle at take-off to get just the right launch speed and acceleration especially if I need to compensate for speed miscalculation approaching jump.

I sometimes ease off the throttle and lets my legs flex up so the bike will come up under me as I approach the lip to keep the bike lower to get the bike back on the ground and driving much faster.
 

linusb

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#11
I would suggest proper body position to counteract the additional power you are using.
Yeah, but you have an unfair advantage with so much more body to compensate with! :laugh: :laugh:
 

High Lord Gomer

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#12
Ouch! Someone pull that tire iron out of my back, will ya?

Don't make me go slam your bike into the landing of a double...AGAIN!
 
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#13
When I was learning to jump on my 250, i kept ejecting off the back on steep hits. It turns out I was trying to 3/4-pin in 2nd, so that explains that. Later, I could clear a lot of big hits in 2nd, but at first the power was overwhelming and the bike would just loop out.
 

tedkxkdx

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#14
Corndog, You can come over to my private practice track. I don't have ropes and stakes like other UK tracks so you can do different distances to the 11 jumps I have and do a single jump in repetition. Call me at 01733-271-037.
Ted