Another frozen swingarm pivot bolt

D

Dirt Bike Dan

Member

Aug 18, 2004

63

0

• Sep 3, 2004

• #1

First, let me say I have done a search on this topic, but I still have a few questions.
I have an '83 KDX 250, and the pivot bolt is stuck. It won't move laterally, it won't spin, nothing. I can get the nut off, but not the bolt. I figure it's stuck on the bearings. first question: Is it possible the bolt is stuck where the bolt passes through the engine (transmission, rather)? Second Question: If I have to use heat to help get the bolt out, where should I heat? I don't want to damage the Al. S-arm, or the engine cases. Thirdly, what type of penetrating oil do you recommend? Is WD40 fine? (for easiest removal, I'm sure it will eventually come out)
And finally, when I reassemble, which is better, anti-seize or waterproof grease?

Thanks in advance

 

D

Dirt Bike Dan

Member

Aug 18, 2004

63

0

• Sep 5, 2004

• Thread starter
• #2

Anyone?
Also, what's the easiest method (least time consuming0?

 

YZ165

YZabian

May 4, 2004

2,431

0

• Sep 5, 2004

• #3

PB Blaster. That and a BFH and a BFP.

 

S

slodsm

Member

Jul 20, 2004

78

0

• Sep 6, 2004

• #4

I agree, thats what I had to do to my YZ last week when it froze up on me suddenly.

 

H

hoosierf

LIFETIME SPONSOR

May 6, 2001

325

1

• Sep 6, 2004

• #5

Lot's of WD-40. Let it soak for a while. Hour or two. Heat the area around the bearings with a torch. Pound the crap out of it with a large punch and big hammer. I used a 1/2 drive extension on the last one that froze on my KX. You won't think it's moving, but keep at it. It'll come out.

And by the way, I ruined the extension in the process, so don't use anything good.

 

J

JasonWho

Member

Apr 10, 2002

2,109

0

• Sep 6, 2004

• #6

I have heard others mention PB Blaster. I would drown it, then let it sit for a couple of hours.

Did you find the old thread from the CR guy who had one person banging on one end while someone else had an air impact wrench on the bolt head?

If it is stuck bad, you might damage the end getting it out, so be aware of that. You may need a replacement, whether new or used.

 

W

wasted

Member

Mar 14, 2004

78

0

• Sep 6, 2004

• #7

its funny this was posted, I just tried all afternoon to get the swingarm pivot bolt out of my brothers '90 RM125, I worked on that thing for HOURS and at the end was no nearing getting it out than I was when I started, I was even beating on the end of it with a maul and still couldnt get it to move...
I tried everything... I even tried welding a bolt to the end and using it as a puller to help as I was beating on the other end, and I ended up breaking the weld...

I finally noticed that I was starting spread the frame apart so I quit and got out the cutoff saw and just cut it between the frame rails and swingarm on both sides(there was just enough of a gap at both ends to get the blade in there without hitting anything else)

I had already long destroyed the threaded end and figured that the $30 that a new bolt would cost was VERY cheap compared to the drama I was going through to get that thing out anyway...

I've taken out many swingarm bolts before and had more than one that was terrible to get out, but this was the first one I've had that I actually had to cut out...

 

2

2smoke

Member

Sep 21, 2001

570

0

• Sep 7, 2004

• #8

Hmmmm I helped a friend remove one from a TM250 a month back, We used lots of lizard piss (WD40...Ive not heard of PB Blaster) let it soak....and a heat gun to get some expansion in the metal. That did the trick but...still had to use the good old bash it out method......my god... it took some bashing.

 

Patman

Pantless Wonder

LIFETIME SPONSOR

Dec 26, 1999

19,765

1

• Sep 7, 2004

• #9

Most likely it's corroded where it passes through the engine cases, different metals tend to do that. I soaked mine and abused the heck out of it with an air impact driver then a large hammer and brass drift. I'd suggest coating it with some anti-seize when you install the new one.

 

G

GhostRider32

Member

Feb 10, 2004

473

0

• Sep 7, 2004

• #10

If you've never used Kroil oil, get some. We use it at work for a variety of reasons. It's a creeping penetrating oil that works great for us.

 

T

Tdel

Member

Mar 1, 2004

47

0

• Sep 7, 2004

• #11

I did my 95 RM-250 this past spring. It was the original bolt and bearings, and I soaked it with PB blaster (much better than WD-40). I ended up having to thread the nut on so it was flush with the bolt end and using a socket and extension to pound on the bolt. It ended up taking a 12 pound sledge with me bracing the bike and one of my extremely large law enforcement friends swinging the sledge. After all of that it still took close to an hour. The bearing inserts were even worse, 21 ton press to get them out. Don't pound on the directly on the bolt it will mushroom (become larger than the bolt hole) and you will have to cut the bolt out at that point.

 

D

Dirt Bike Dan

Member

Aug 18, 2004

63

0

• Sep 7, 2004

• Thread starter
• #12

thanks for all the replies. I think i'm going to try to beat it out while using an impact wrench on the bolt.

 

H

hoosierf

LIFETIME SPONSOR

May 6, 2001

325

1

• Sep 9, 2004

• #13

Don't forget the heat. Torch it, always helps.