First timer, try to keep it short, alot to say. I bought a used 2001 kdx220 fmf gnarly pipe/silencer, air box mod, ferdette 36mm carb bore/head work?, wiseco piston, stiffer fork springs, vapor trail computer, real clean. Nice right? PO said bike ran great, only put a high output stator on for heated grips and never got it timed rite before weather got cold. I could retime or put stock stator on back to the marks and its fine. Sounded good so I bought it. $1000. Warmer weather, fresh gas time for timing, put stock stator on just to be sure . I must have adjusted timing 20 times. Idle great, low end great no top at all! Just bog. Stator checked out fine, coil fine, ohms were different on regulator/cdi so I bought used ones. Same thing! Took kips cover off, NO movement, CRAP! Top end comes off everything real clean, valve was stuck (exhaust rod). Everything back together kips works great, but still no top end , just bog. Jetting was 45/162 went down to 155 things getting better. Is there anything I might be missing? float is good. HELP! thanks scott
buying used really bites! will it run again?
- Thread starter scooter01
- Start date
sound like your going to get through it fine
make certain your kips is in the closed position while assembling...line the marks up
you can try the needle clip in the second groove from top
repack the silencer if after market
if your not riding it long then top end won't appear...must be warmed all the way to realize full performance
make certain your kips is in the closed position while assembling...line the marks up
you can try the needle clip in the second groove from top
repack the silencer if after market
if your not riding it long then top end won't appear...must be warmed all the way to realize full performance
Not too much on the timing. There should be three marks, advanced, retarded, and stock. Keep it at the stock setting.
I think you're almost there, just keep playing with the jetting. Try a 152 main and see if that clears things up a bit.
Mix any good synthetic oil at 32-40:1. Pick your ratio and stick with it. Don't try changing mix ratio to fix a problem, it will just cause more problems.
Most importantly, make sure it has a wiseco piston and not the stock cast piston. The 220's do not like cast pistons at all.
Carb and head work sounds like RB. Fredette does porting work, but I think RB has the market on that carb bore and head mod.
I think you're almost there, just keep playing with the jetting. Try a 152 main and see if that clears things up a bit.
Mix any good synthetic oil at 32-40:1. Pick your ratio and stick with it. Don't try changing mix ratio to fix a problem, it will just cause more problems.
Most importantly, make sure it has a wiseco piston and not the stock cast piston. The 220's do not like cast pistons at all.
Carb and head work sounds like RB. Fredette does porting work, but I think RB has the market on that carb bore and head mod.
I use lucas semi synthetic (bought at O'rieleys) 40:1 with high test pump gas
check out the #'s on the upper mounting tap (by the tank) on your fmf and compare them to make certain you have the desert pipe and not the woods pipe.
and when it bogs listen to it and tell us if it sputters and smokes or does it sound hollow and flat (whaaaaaa)?
also did you completley disassemble the kips system? just because the shaft under the round slotted cover moves doesn't mean the 2 barrel vavles on the sides are moving they could have broken teeth or may have been installed wrong
check out the #'s on the upper mounting tap (by the tank) on your fmf and compare them to make certain you have the desert pipe and not the woods pipe.
and when it bogs listen to it and tell us if it sputters and smokes or does it sound hollow and flat (whaaaaaa)?
also did you completley disassemble the kips system? just because the shaft under the round slotted cover moves doesn't mean the 2 barrel vavles on the sides are moving they could have broken teeth or may have been installed wrong
- Thread starter
- #7
the pipe fmf gnarly gold #110-020056 how do you tell torque/rev? inside owners manual someone wrote: fredette 36mm main160 pilot45 I have also found groves in the swingarm behind the front flap. Someone was running this on the ice in the cold. I triple checked the kips its rite. how high of a rev can I expect, I have been riding a cr250 and a kx 125 recently should it be that much less?
A 220 does not have overrev like a 125 or 250mx bike. If you are expecting that, you bought the wrong bike. The 36mm carb should help, IF it is indeed a 36mm carb. Even then it will not have the overrev that an MX bike has. It should have plenty of power though. A 220 should lift the front wheel easily for the first 3 or 4 gears.
It really sounds like you have KIPS problems. It's hard to determine from where I sit though. Yes, the 220 revs out really soon. It's king of short shifting. It should have SOME overrev though.
I know you said the KIPS are good, but did you check both the subvalves to make sure one is not stripped, and that they are timed correctly?
I know you said the KIPS are good, but did you check both the subvalves to make sure one is not stripped, and that they are timed correctly?
- Thread starter
- #13
yes took exhaust off and you can see the valves rotating, everything in sync. could this be electrical? I noticed the lights fluttering last night on a test ride. the bike has a vapor trail computer wich shouldnt take much power to activate. When the headlight went out the taillight got bright and computer worked. When headlight came on computer didn,t work. When I bought the bike the tail light bulb was removed. I put the high output stator in I got with the bike, no difference. Swithed voltage regulator, still same. has there ever been a flywheel issue? still searching, thanks guys
try the clip position already!
low/mid rpm then let off and then hit it 1st gear can produce 10-15 ft wheelies 2nd about 20ft 3rd can sometime get me 30ft (I can't shift in a wheely, wish I could)
before my rebuild I had a short top end rev and while breaking in the new stuff I decided to try to change from 3rd clip from top to the second from the top and this was the ticket....have you tried it out?
dont be scared just pick a set of hemostats up to clip onto the cable so you don't have to finger wrestle the spring
scooter01 said:
low/mid rpm then let off and then hit it 1st gear can produce 10-15 ft wheelies 2nd about 20ft 3rd can sometime get me 30ft (I can't shift in a wheely, wish I could)
before my rebuild I had a short top end rev and while breaking in the new stuff I decided to try to change from 3rd clip from top to the second from the top and this was the ticket....have you tried it out?
dont be scared just pick a set of hemostats up to clip onto the cable so you don't have to finger wrestle the spring
- Thread starter
- #15
yep, use the hemostat trick, works great! I,m running a 152 main and it still seems a bit rich on top end even with clip in second from top. I,m going to try a 150 main/ middle clip. Man that seems LEAN, but thats what the bike wants. I dont have room to do a WOT plug chop in the city, but up and down a few blocks gives me a good indication. I'll do that this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #18
YEE HAAA! found the problem. PO put a vapor trail computer on the bike, he hooked a lead into barrel conector to cdi. It was that simple,I pulled my hair out for 4 weeks. The kips valve was stuck so I didn't completely waste me time, but a good running motor might have pulled it loose? Whatever, this thing is insane!! I went back to a 160 main and everything is good. YES IT WILL RUN AGAIN!!!
roadkillrob
Member
- Mar 11, 2010
- 3
- 0
Nice - you got good deal on it with the mods and it sounds like you have a great bike in the end (just 4 weeks of hair pulling is all your out!)
reepicheep
Member
- Apr 3, 2009
- 670
- 2
The KDX has two stator windings, one for the ignition, and the other one for lighting. So it sounds like he just wired into the wrong one. Or maybe your lighting coil is shot, so that wasn't an option.
If that lighting coil is still good, you can put the back light and vaypor back on...
If that lighting coil is still good, you can put the back light and vaypor back on...
scooter01 said:
I had thought of asking how the trial tech was hooked up (winding around the plug lead or tapped into something) but let the thought pass
glad to hear you got her running good with out leaning it to death...you will still want to work on the jetting..if I recall correctly alot of 220 guys end up in the high 140's with jetting
if you spend a bit of time to get it perfect the rewards will be many
- Thread starter
- #23
I just had to ride it the next day! (sun.) put on about 25-30 miles through the thickest crap I've ever seen. My buddy( A very good rider) put me through the test. I think It was a little payback for all my questions and his time helping me. Man, it feels like I went 10 rounds with a heavyweight boxer! A bad get off and a stump left a softball size bruise on my outer thigh. The bike ran flawless, everything I could ask for. Well maybe a new back tire and REAL bark busters. The stock ones work Just for branches at slow speed. I think a 158 main or second clip and this thing would be tuned just perfect. Even my fingers are tired, thanks again to all who treid to help. Maybe my 4 week schooling will come in handy for someone else.
