Can't get bike to start

[CJS1]

Can anyone give me a few pointers?

I finally got the stator to give me a spark. Do the slots on the stator adjust the timing?

I have spark I tried putting a little gas in the cylinder. I tried putting some gas in the carb but it does not want to start up.

It is so close.

Any info would be great. :worship:

 

[skipro3]

Be sure you have a new plug and that it is gapped correctly. Sometimes a used plug will spark outside the pressure of the combustion chamber but when in the motor, not work.

 

[dsndblm]

Ditto as Skipro3 said on the plug. I have never had luck getting a plug that fouled to work for any period of time. Even cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner only got a few seconds of fire. Check the carb and make sure it is clean. Blow out every hole with carb cleaner and compressed air. Unless someone has messed with the timing I would leave it alone.

 

[tshs1997]

also check to see that the woodruff key on the flywheel isnt sheered.

 

[carney]

Did you ever get your magnet situation straightened out? e.g. Is it possible that the spark is being triggered 90, 180 or 270 degrees off from where it should be?

 

[tedkxkdx]

if the stator is put on backwards it will fire at wrong time and make bike run in reverse. That causes the reeds to break apart. Stator resistance must also be tested. If it is lower than 250 at Resistance X 10 (RX10) you need a new one. All the blown ones I had read 150.

 

[canyncarvr]

re: key

You can check its position by simply sticking a small screwdriver (wire will work, too) into the keyway on the crank.

It's not too hard to displace the key when the flywheel is put back on.

If you're asking about timing, I would presume you don't know where the stator (that's the assembly..the coil is part of that assembly) was before you took it apart? Maybe it was already in pieces and you don't know where it was?

With the question about magnets, this is an ongoing problem?

Of course, magnets have poles (+/-). I would suppose that is critical. I've not put in a rotor magnet backwards to find out what happens.

**edit**
Just read your post on magnets.

Is there no question as to the placement you used? No question at all?

Any placement change.....heck, even different magnets in the exact same place as 'old' ones will likely change spark timing.

You might try manual activation of the crank while a timing light is attached (plug doesn't have to be installed in the head. Hang it off to the side someplace...make sure it is grounded). Use a drill motor or some such. Make a mark (felt tip is fine) on the rotor.

Make a note of the physical orientation of the spark occurrence..where on the case the mark is when the timing light flashes.

Now measure the distance from TDC the spark occurs (use the positive stop method to find TDC. If you don't know what that is, ask. Don't use a dial indicator).

If you know either the spec of distance of piston travel (noted as 'Xmm BTDC') that spark is supposed to happen, or a º number (noted as Xº BTDC) you can figure out if it's in the right spot.

Not picking, but if magnets were just installed I'd assume they are not correct. At the least, your timing has changed and needs to be reflected by stator postion.

Oh...of course the marks you refer to are likely completely bogus with the add or replacement of the magnets. At least consider them to be most probably no longer correct.

 

[CJS1]

I have a new plug and the stator is put back where it was before as noted by the marks left by the screws. I really think the problem is the carb I have taken it all apart and cleaned the whole thing a few months ago. It almost runs seems the same as if it wasn't stored properly in the winter and is so close.

What should the plug gap be set at?

 

[canyncarvr]

I don't understand 'almost runs'.

Does it or does it not.....run?

You are not using fuel that has been sitting in the tank over the winter, correct?

Gap spec is around .026-.028". A healthy ignition system won't have trouble with .030".

 

[CJS1]

Sounds like it is the timing that is out. I am going to try adjusting the timing tonight. Each time I kick it it goes put put put put. This would mean that it almost runs. I should know more tomorrow.

 

[CJS1]

It finally started!!! It was the source coil wires that were reversed so we swapped them and it ran. I just need to adjust the idle and the timing a bit and then it will be ready to ride on the weekend.

 

[JasonWho]

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[cicone]

It finally started!!! It was the source coil wires that were reversed so we swapped them and it ran. I just need to adjust the idle and the timing a bit and then it will be ready to ride on the weekend.

My terminology isn't great---exactly what/how was miswired??

 

[canyncarvr]

Sometimes (I don't know why) it is imperative to have the - connected to the - of the coil, and the + connected to the +. It being nothing but a coil of wire why would it make any difference?

But it often does.

Some systems come wired 'backwards' on purpose. Some modification 'tips' have you changing those connections around. (There is a fairly new machine out like that, but I don't remember which).

Haven't poked around looking for anecdotal or specific information about this phenom. If I find something I'll edit this post.

**edit**

I've attached a diagram of an ignition circuit that shows a handy picture of the ignition coil. There are three connections to a standard ignition coil, the + and - for the primary and the hi-tension secondary (the sparky part). Nothing is going to happen in the secondary if there is no reference point..and that reference (in the case of this diagram) is the - of the input!

Think of it as hoses with water (voltage) pressure (current) applied. This diagram gives you a visual on the power needing to 'flow' from the + to the -. If you attach the input power to the - side of the primary, the only flow you would have is from leakage thru the coil to the + side as opposed to a 'clear shot' of flow to ground (from + to -).

Now...why sometimes the inputs ARE reversed to improve some systems, I don't know. I'm sure if you could see the diagram of such a system it would be intuitively obvious.....even to the most casual observer!

 

[cicone]

Some systems come wired 'backwards' on purpose. Some modification 'tips' have you changing those connections around. (There is a fairly new machine out like that, but I don't remember which).

Haven't poked around looking for anecdotal or specific information about this phenom. If I find something I'll edit this post.

I hears ya on that one. When replacing my coil with a new Electrex, the diagram didn't jive with the associated text---go figure??

 

[CJS1]

I got the bike running and had it out on the weekend. I heard people say that KDX 200's are fast but holy crap that was kinda scary. Then it died and I could not get it running again. I think it was the plug. Does anyone run a hotter plug than a BR9ES? I think I might sell it and get a four stroke like my quad it is way easier to ride and less messing with.

 

[JasonWho]

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[CJS1]

I like to bike its a little to fast but the problem is that I would like to ride a little slower that winding it out all the time to keep the plug clean. I will keep working on the bike or any bike I have because that is part of the run. I just never thought that a KDX 200 would have so much torque.
I will try an 8 and finish tunning the bike a bit.

 

[JasonWho]

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