Chain Reaction

[Tripp]

When I used to ride as a kid, dad always took care of the bike maintenance (if any at all...I didn't care about that stuff!) I've recently got back into riding and bought a new 02 YZ125, and now that I'm the adult, I'm the one that has to deal with the maintenance. I have several question involving the drive chain.

1. Everyone says the stock chains are crap. Why? Now I'm sure if you're racing professionaly you need all the help you can get, but for a novice, isn't the stock chain O.K? Someone please shed some light.

2. What's the best way to clean a standard chain? I recently got it extremely muddy in red Georgia Clay. Currently it's soaking in mineral spirits, but it seems I have to scrub it with a tooth brush to get it clean and it's still not smooth between the links. It binds more than I'd like. (Yes, it is the stock chain...could that be the problem?)

3. Has anyone used KawaChem Racing Chain Lube. It's a blue spray, but it's non tacky and ends up dry. It doesn't seem to attract dirt, but I don't see how it lubes. It does have ester in it if that helps.

4. What chain lube are you guys running and do you use different lubes for different applications. Woods vs MX, etc... Also, what types are these lubes? Tacky, wax, wet, sprays that dryout, etc...

5. Outside of stretch being out of spec, how do you know when the chain is shot? The links on mine for instance, don't move as easily as they used to, but I don't know when it's time to ditch the chain.

6. Are there any web links I can check out to tell me all I want to know about chains and more?

Any other tips you can give me on chain maintenance to extend it's life will be appreciated?

Thanks

 

[Jaybird]

Tripp,
Stock chains tend to be of lesser quality than bought chains of the same brand. OEM's often do deals for such things and those deals may not include using the best equipment that there is to offer. Regina chains tout having solid bushings and rollers. I got a bike with a Regina chain as OEM equipment and it had formed plates for bushings and rollers. Formed platebushings and rollers are sub-standard.

If you got mud or clay on the chain it should wash right off. This tells me that the lube you are using, albeit a dryer type lube, is helping to make a mess on your chain. A good dry-film lubricant will not create a messy paste of things that is hard to get off.

You have to get conventional petroleum lubricants out of your mind when dealing with lubes that use dry-film technology. Dry-films may have some oils and esters in the carrier, but for the most part lubricity is handled by solids. The solids (molybdenum disalfate, graphite, teflon, etc...) adhere to the molecular structure of the friction surface. In other words the solids are attracted to the little craters and bumps that the surfaces have. These solids will often times repel each others molecules and when they are adhered to the metal, this is what carries the load. Conventional petroleum lubricants have to create a film over the friction surfaces to be able to carry load. Normally this film must be about .002 of an inch thick to carry any sort of heavy load or shock. Problem with petroleum lube is that the film must constantly be replaced, and it tends not to be able to carry as much shock load as a solid lube can. Dry-film's using solids will protect for a much longer period of time without replentishing, than petroleum films will. Also, these days you will see many thick, tacky lubes....these are designed to help keep the lube in place. It works better than petroleum without any tackifier in it, but it makes one heck of a mess. And once it attracts dirt...(don't believe any lube that claims it doesn't attract dirt until you see it for yourself, they lie) the result is a grinding paste that will actually help to wear out the chain.

I use a dry-film lubricant that I helped develop. It will be on the market soon.
Honda has a good dry-film moly that works well.

If your chain is binding, then there must be a problem. Any time one kinks or binds, it's a good bet that there is a problem with that chain. More than likely oxidation has occured inside the friction areas that you can't see. Learn how to properly measure your chain. However, a chain that has internal problems may not have grown past spec even though it is trash.

www.ustsubaki.com

Always clean your chain after every ride, and never put it up wet. If you use a thin bodied, penetrating, dry-film lube, it should work to disperse the water. If not, then use a product like WD-40 just after washing and just before lubing. Never ride for more than two hours without re-applying lube.

 

[Tripp]

JayBird, thank you SO much for the detailed reply. That clears a lot up for me!!!!