DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
0
:o I can honestly say that in all my life with bicycles and motorized ones, I have never undone and re-attached a master liink n a chain. That is until yesterday. What the #%?& is the right way to do it :confused: ? . I think I bent the clip on mine and had to take it back off and try again and it still doesn't attach to my liking (it's loose). Anybody got some tips they can pass on? The chain is stock O-Ring for a 220.
Also I just put a new 48 tooth sprocket on it and it seems to me there's not much clearance between the sprocket and the chain guide. In fact I just inserted the chain into the guide, turned the wheel and when the sprocket caught the first link I just kept turning to feed it through. Is there some adjustment to be made to accomodate a larger sprocket? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance. DVO
 

yzeater

~SPONSOR~
May 21, 2001
1,995
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First of all, I consider master links to be the devil. I usually spend 40 minutes trying to put it on, and then all of the sudden it pops on. As for your chain guide, I think that you just need to ride a little bit. This should cut your chain guide a little bit, therefore making it work like new!!
 

dirtbikeguy

Member
May 6, 2001
35
0
Once the chain is on I can install an O-Ring masterlink for my KDX200 in about 2 minutes. Use a Motion Pro chain press for about $20 and you'll never get frustrated again.
 

David Trustrum

~SPONSOR~
Jan 25, 2001
1,396
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Masterlinks are always a pain, you need a new clip.

If I can I use the rivet link & can still get the rear wheel out on my bike (you will probably need a shop to install it by the sounds).

If you must use one, use some RTV to cover the link & help retain the clip. Also closed end first as you spin the wheel & the chain enters the guide.
 

JMD

Member
Jul 11, 2001
1,402
0
I used to dread removing masterlinks, too. But now, I'm "Dr. Strangelink--Or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying . . . And LOVE the link."

Try this; it has changed my whole life, and it can change yours. Rotate the wheel placing the masterlink just forward of the top of the sprocket. Remove the clip with a pair of vise-grip pliers. These pliers must have good, sharp jaws. Open them up to use just the last bit of travel. The left jaw rests inside the back pin (the pin farthest from the countershaft) of the m-link, and the right jaw pushes the split end of the clip. This is why the jaws must be sharp--there is very little thickness to the clip against which to register. But there is enough. Use the last bit of travel to squeeze, and the clip will part and move forward. (It works best using the last bit of travel in the pliers, because that way the jaws are close to parallel, and they tend to slip off the pin or the clip less easily. It takes a while to get the knack, but it's worth it.)

Once the clip is loose, remove it with a screwdriver or a scribe or any small pointy thing--maybe your brother-in-law's head. If you have a chain that does not use a press-on m-link, you're finished with removal. If it is a press-on (the best, because they are more secure, and with an O-ring chain, they make replacing the link easier. I'll explain why below), place a good chain breaker on one pin of the m-link, and push it out a little. Don't try to push it all the way out, or you may bend the link. Then switch to the other pin of the link, and push it out. Usually you can push the whole thing out now.

That's it for removal. Trust me, the chain breaker is the way to go with press-on links. Otherwise you're stuck prying and swearing, both of which can be effective when used in conjunction with a little blood, but the chain breaker is the preferred method. Use the kind with two long handles (about six-inches; to me that's long--never mind why). You don't want to mess around with the miniature models that require wrenches. Save those for emergencies on the trail, when your overall misery will mask the minor torture of using those little things.

Now, for replacement. If you don't have a press-on link (DID and the newer Regina O-ring do), you've had it easy up to now, but you're in for some trouble. The problem with the non-press-on links is that it's hard to compress the O-rings enough to get the clip on--you have to squeeze the plate tightly against the link, and get the clip on, all with only two hands. It's a struggle. I use a little hex nut just big enough to fit over one pin, and I squeeze it with the vise-grips, to compress the link. I do this to both pins, until I think the rings are compressed enough to get the clip on. Usually they pop out again, and I have to try again. But eventually you will get them compressed. You may have to get a pair of needle-nosed vise-grips to hold the very edge of the inside of the link, allowing you the room to get the clip on. You then put the clip on by doing the reverse of what you did to get it off: you use your other vise-grips to grip the inside of the front pin (closest to the countershaft) and the round head of the clip. Always put the round head toward the front. If you get your pliers' jaws to grip the clip and the pin just right, you squeeze (again using the last bit of travel, to keep the jaws parallel), and the split end should open and pop over the rear pin. Voila, you're done.

For press-on links, you use the same method as above. The key is the hex nut. It allows you to press the plate down without the pins' getting in your way. The press-ons are easier to replace, because once you get the plate pressed down, it stays there, allowing you to use both hands to get the clip on.

This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. I can now remove a link in about two minutes, and replace it almost as fast. But there is no reason to replace your masterlink every time you break the chain, if you don't pry the clip off and bend it, as most people do. Hope this long-winded missive helps.
 

DVO

Member
Nov 3, 2001
231
0
Thanks guys, good ideas.
JMD: once I figured out some terms like countershaft etc, your explanation made a lot of sense and what you call long-winded, I call detailed. (And that is what I need). That little socket sounds like a great idea too!:D

By the way,
-what is a DID chain?
-and a rivet link?
-do I need to buy a new link or do clips sell separately?
Thanx again. DVO
 

Mike Hubert

Member
Apr 22, 2001
164
0
I too have wrestled with master links, try this. Put the new master link together with both ends of the chain on the rear sprocket. Put a small block of wood over both studs of the assembled link and tighten with a c-clamp, the clamp will compress the link and the posts will extend into the wood, remove the clamp and the spring clip usually goes on with ease.
 
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