I have a 98 KDX220 and had to put in a new clutch wheel ( the plate with the 4 posts the springs go over) I put in all new Kawasaki friction discs and the steels are brand new. I soaked the friction discs in motor oil before putting them in. I put it all back together, adjusted the clutch lever to have just a little play. It will not disengage all the way. Even with play in the clutch handle. The clutch lever on the case has a little free play as well so It's not the cable. Took it all back apart ...its all perfect. Read the KDX manual. But first let me say I have replaced 25-30 clutches. This one two times since new. Ok, so the manual says install the six (6) friction plates in the grooves and the last one in the tangs in the groove. KDX's always put the last one in the small "tang" in the top of the basket. I did all that. Here's the problem.....six and the last one make 7 ! It had 8 in there and I replaced it with 8. Looking at the picture in the manual, it shows 7 in the grove and 1 in the tang. So....just for grins, I put it back together with 6 and 1. Suprise, doesn't work. Ok, have you ever had new clutch disks grab like this? I let it sit overnight hoping the oil would soak in and help. Any ideas? My next step will be to put the old friction plates in and see what happens. I've never used transmission fluid on the friction plates, would that make a difference? It's grabbing enough while it is pulled in to keep the bike rolling. I took out all the slack and it made no difference. Help!!!
Clutch help needed!!!
- Thread starter dwiggins
- Start date
High Lord Gomer
Poked with Sticks
- Sep 26, 1999
- 11,788
- 35
It sounds like maybe the inner basket is dragging on the outer basket. I would go back through and make sure that all washer and bearings are there as expected.
Also look for any scrapes or unexpected wear on all of the parts to see if it is dragging where it shouldn't.
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=1998&fveh=8589
I would specifically check for 92045 and 13081. Also 92200.
Also look for any scrapes or unexpected wear on all of the parts to see if it is dragging where it shouldn't.
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fich...Motorcycles&make=KAWASAKI&year=1998&fveh=8589
I would specifically check for 92045 and 13081. Also 92200.
- Thread starter
- #3
Yeah, I thought I might have missed a washer but it was all there.
I think I will take it apart one more time. Mic the friction Plates and see if they are just to thick . Maybe go one new... One old .....see what happens. Good idea to look for some wear marks.
I think I will take it apart one more time. Mic the friction Plates and see if they are just to thick . Maybe go one new... One old .....see what happens. Good idea to look for some wear marks.
Did you check to make sure that there was no grooving in the outter basket? Did you try to ride the bike straight after installing the new clutch?
My bike's clutch sticks, but only on the initial take off when I haven't ridden it for a few weeks. Sometimes I need to tap the rear brake with the clutch lever held in to help free up when it sticks. The basket on mine is perfect, and it has a brand new h/d clutch kit in it, so I can't see any reason at all for it to do that. I suppose it's just what some kdx's do?
My bike's clutch sticks, but only on the initial take off when I haven't ridden it for a few weeks. Sometimes I need to tap the rear brake with the clutch lever held in to help free up when it sticks. The basket on mine is perfect, and it has a brand new h/d clutch kit in it, so I can't see any reason at all for it to do that. I suppose it's just what some kdx's do?
motopsycho87
Member
- Dec 26, 2010
- 152
- 2
The exact same thing happened to me once before, turned out the actual plates were far too oversized (I'd bought Kyoto). Invest in a pair of vernier calipers and measure them.
Also, a lot of clutches it is possible to skip a tooth on either the internal mechanisms or even simpler on the actual lever protruding from the case.
Worst case, put your old plates in if they worked atall just to see whether it is the plates or something else.
All being said, the KDX clutch is a bit snatchy, you have to have it adjusted well to get full dis-engage out of it, you haven't done something silly like change the lever recently?
Also, a lot of clutches it is possible to skip a tooth on either the internal mechanisms or even simpler on the actual lever protruding from the case.
Worst case, put your old plates in if they worked atall just to see whether it is the plates or something else.
All being said, the KDX clutch is a bit snatchy, you have to have it adjusted well to get full dis-engage out of it, you haven't done something silly like change the lever recently?
- Thread starter
- #6
There was a little "notching" on the hub where each tab sits so I used a file and cleaned each one up a little. I do that every time I put one in. I haven't messed with the lever, but did check it out and its working fine. I did put a little extra oil in the trans thinking that with everything dry it would end up ok. I read in the service manual that it might make it drag. I'll lower it to the right level and see what happens.
When I started it the first time, I took it for a ride around the yard. Then parked it at the bottom of a jump and slipped the clutch while giving it throttle thinking it may have a dry plate sticking. Didn't change a thing. rode it for 5 min. pulling the clutch in and reving it about 50 times. Still drags. Think I'll try the old friction plates. I will measure them first. I do have a set of calipers. I'll post what I find.
When I started it the first time, I took it for a ride around the yard. Then parked it at the bottom of a jump and slipped the clutch while giving it throttle thinking it may have a dry plate sticking. Didn't change a thing. rode it for 5 min. pulling the clutch in and reving it about 50 times. Still drags. Think I'll try the old friction plates. I will measure them first. I do have a set of calipers. I'll post what I find.
I have had a similar problem on a diferent bike and it was the washers that hold eack spring one had moved sidways enough to touch alloy and cause the pressure plate to tip sideways. (can't remember if kdx has individual washers or a cicular plate for all springs)
- Thread starter
- #8
Pesky, the KDX has one center piece that holds the bearing and covers the springs. I thought I was dragging something too. I took out every other new OEM friction plate and replaced those with the ones I took out. They were only 5-6 months old. They all looked good. The clutch wheel was groved out so I ordered new frictions with it. Good news is it works perfect now and I still have 4 new and 4 almost new friction plates to use. Thanks for the help guys.
