Clutch-Side Seal Replacement Hints

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#1
I believe the clutch-side bottom-end bearing seal went again on my son's '90 (2nd time). last tiem the dealer did it for $200; I'm going to do it myself this time, & plan on buying a clutch basket holding tool, seal, & clutch case/cover gasket.

The machinist @ work cut some soft aluminum stock to wedge between the primary gears to assist in removal of the nut behind the basket.

He said to drill two pilot holes into the seal, insert two wood screws, then carefully pull the seal out; using propane to warm up the case for removal & insertion of the new seal would help.

Any other suggestions?
 

HLT

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#2
On the clutch side, you won't need to drill pilot holes. There will be a spacer behind the main drive gear that slides off when you remove the gear. There will be room to hook something behind the seal and pull it out. I use two small screwdrivers with the tips bent 90 degrees just for that purpose. The pilot holes are needed on the stator side. You also don't want any heat as you will have a lot of oil that could catch fire. The seal will go in fine without it.
 
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#3
What does Buy mean?

Clutch holding tool? You mean a friction & steel bolted together? Or a steel with a handle welded to it.

Use a hot air gun if you are afraid, but localised heat on the primary gear nut will help break down any threadlock used there. Re apply some too is a good idea.
 
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#4
OK, no heat. But I suspect some grease would be good, followed with a piece of PVC pipe as a driver to push the new seal parallel to or all the way in the seat.

David: there are two major clutch housing components: an innear and outer (basket). The innear, smaller one has a huge holding nut, and the whole part spins freely.

The outer clutch basket is meshed/locked in sync with the primary, kick starting, & transmission; I need to remove the former innear part, then outer basket to finally remove the primary drive gear, then remove & install the seal.

The tool needed (I'm told) holds this innear component so the nut & prevents it from spinning.

HLT: When you say "get behind the seal" do you mean the innear or outer perimeter (from the middle area of the seal)? I will suppose you mean outer from the middle, as it has two lips: one with the spring/ring (inner), the other more like a hard collar (outer).

Thanks for the insights.
 
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#5
placelast, it is very easy to fashion a clutch holding tool with some old plates. Take a used fiber plate and a used metal plate, and bolt them together. Insert this "tool" into the clutch housing. Block the primary gears as you planned, or simply put the tranny in gear and have someone hold the rear brake. This will allow you to easily remove the big nut holding the inner clutch hub, and the nut on the primary gear as well. Dave's advice on the heatgun and the thread compound are right on.
 
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#6
John.

I think what David is saying is, if you take an old friction and steel clutch plate and drill and bolt them together, this will work for a clutch holding tool rather than buying one. This will lock the hub assembly with the outer cage and by wedging the aluminum stock in the primary gear, you will be able to remove the hub nut. Be sure to loc-tite this nut when re-installing it.

You can usually pop the crank seals out with a sharp pointy object. (Be careful with sharp pointy objects):confused: Just puncture the side of the seal and pry it out. When installing the new seal, be sure not to push it in too far. Only push it down until it is level with the casting on the case. If you push too far, you may have to ruin it to get it back out. I usually use WD40 to lube the seal and the case prior to pressing the seal in since it evaporates soon after use.

If you need any help, give me a shout.
 
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#7
Spanky. Sorry to mimic your post. Looks like we posted at the same time.

Information overload.:confused:
 
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#8
Why thanks, handsome 'ol guy & Spank.

Great economic advice re: using old plates. Thing is, I don't have any plates out of spec. - haven't been on smokers long enough to wear any out, so it looks like I'll be buying the tool (tomorrow @ White Bros.)

"Be sure to loc-tite this nut when re-installing it." (Primary drive gear)

Which of 3 colors do I use?

(young & learning)
 
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#9
Originally posted by placelast
Great economic advice re: using old plates. Thing is, I don't have any plates out of spec.
I'll bet if you ask nicely, your dealer will gladly give you a couple of old plates.
 
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#10
Originally posted by placelast

"Be sure to loc-tite this nut when re-installing it." (Primary drive gear)

Which of 3 colors do I use?

(young & learning)
John. I use red loc-tite on primary nuts.

(young & learning) BWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Excuse me, I think I just had a senior moment.:scream:
 
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#11
Originally posted by Ol'89r


John. I use red loc-tite on primary nuts.
:think Out of "elder" respect, I'll pass, even though left field is wwwwwwiiiiiiiiiiiiiide open! ;)

Late breaking news: the seal in process of being replaced (still waiting for the wrench) was installed backwards @ the KTM dealer, possibly by a learning mechanic, which lead to this failure 17-months later; am surprised it lasted this long.

The 1st sign of failure was in July (Big Bear ride), where it looked like overly-rich jetting, but upon checking the oil level of late, confirmed my suspicions the seal was gone.
 
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#12
Originally posted by Ol'89r


John. I use red loc-tite on primary nuts.
:think What about fruitcakes?

Late breaking news: the seal in process of being replaced (still waiting for the wrench) was installed backwards @ the KTM dealer, possibly by a learning mechanic, which lead to this failure 17-months later; am surprised it lasted this long.

The 1st sign of failure was in July (Big Bear ride), where it looked like overly-rich jetting, but upon checking the oil level of late, confirmed my suspicions the seal was gone.
 
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#13
The Motion Pro tool - an odd-looking thing (how is it suppose to work?) - finally came in, so when I was @ the dealer I told them they put it in backwards; they volunteered to replaced it & did so *while I watched*...
 
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#14
Originally posted by placelast


:think What about fruitcakes?
Gee John, I don't know. I try to stay out of Orange County.:p

You say it wasn't running right at Big Bear? Sounded like it was running pretty good when you blew by me on the fire road.:scream:

Glad you got it done. When are you and Jr coming out for a trail ride or to play on the track????????

Ol'
 
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#15
Originally posted by Ol'89r
You say it wasn't running right at Big Bear? Sounded like it was running pretty good when you blew by me on the fire road.:scream:

Glad you got it done. When are you and Jr coming out for a trail ride or to play on the track????????

Ol'
My son's bike had the mis-installed seal ( :think or was that him that diced with you? Lol.)

We'll cerrainly come out after the next rain (er, pass on the summer/fall thunderstorms.....zzzzzaaaapppp! Boom! Quite a story, there.)

Track? Isn't that's what's left when riding thru mud? Last time I tried MX - hey, I'm almost as crotchety-old as you, certainly more cranky - some pimple & oh, few-odd hair-sprouting-faced kids gave me some baaaaad eye; haven't been back since. Don't blame them: my moto skills are wanting, & don't find it fun either...thanks for the invite, tho.