Coolant in Case

[wardd]

I'm looking for some advice....

I've been unable to get my 2001 YZ250 started since replacing the top end. Also installed aftermarket FMF Torque reeds.

The bike will fire briefly when a new plug is installed, but then not again unless I change the plug. It appears there is moisture, but possibly not gas, on the plug when inspected. Since it has air, gas, and spark, I'm not sure what else to check.

One possibility(probable): when I initially removed the head, the coolant was not completely drained. Some leaked out the bottom of the cylinder, and possibly into the case at the crank opening.

Could this be the cause, and how do I get it out? I've tried to burn it out, but can't keep going through new plugs just to get a short fire. If I strip it down again, could I possibly siphon any water/coolant out along side the crank? Is there a better way?
I certainly don't want to split the cases, if not necessary.

I'm afraid I may be done riding for awhile....
Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.... Ever heard of anyone else doing something so dumb? Very frustrated......

Wardd.

 

[Layton]

If you think you have coolant in the bottom of the engine remove the spark plug and ground the wire.

Turn the bike upside down and crank the engine. If there is coolant in the case it will come out the spark plug hole.

If some comes out countinue to crank the engine until no more is coming out, put the bike back right side up and then turn the bike upside down again.

Repeat this process until NO coolant comes out of the engine.

The reason you keep setting the bike back on it's wheels is that the piston, when it is upside down, traps some coolant in it like a cup would. It takes many tries to get all of the coolant out.

Put in a new spark plug and see what happens.

Hope this helps.

 

[Buzz Bomb]

You might also want to pour a little bit of two stroke oil into the intake side of the cylinder after flushing it out. This will keep your crank lubed up. BTW, how much coolant was in there? It must have been a lot if it can keep the bike from running. Make sure your head gasket isn't leaking and letting more and more coolant into the engine.

 

[wardd]

Just stripped the bike down again last night. After removing the cylinder, I flipped the bike completely upside down and slowly raised and lowered the crank. About 1/2 pint came out. Also drained about 1/2 pint from inside the header pipe, most likely from kicking it over and over.

Cleaned everything, since reeds, power valves, etc... were all covered in coolant. Flipped bike back and sprayed wd40 in crank area to help lube and displace any water residue left behind. I think I should have it now. I'll use some two stoke oil as well. Good suggestion!

The coolant in case was not due to a leaking gasket, just my stupidity:eek: . Make sure coolant is COMPLETELY drained before removing top end.

I'm drying out the new base gasket, since it was wet with coolant as well. Since the bike has not been started with the new gaskets, I'm hoping they will be ok. Will get her all back together tonight and try to fire her up again.

Thanks...
Wardd.

 

[Layton]

At least you found the problem.

You really didn't have to take the engine apart again. Just removing the spark plug would have done the trick. The only difference is, you have to flip it several times because of coolant being trapped on the underside of the piston when the bike is upside down.

If you ever drown the bike in a creek this is the same procedure that you would follow except that you have to also check the air filter for water.

Good thing you mentioned in your first post the possibility of coolant getting into the case.:eek:

 

[wardd]

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Not Done Yet....
Ok..... the saga continues......

Put bike back together and it runs just like new. One problem though.... The clutch now seems to slip big time. At least that's what I think it is. The operation of the clutch via the lever seems fine. However, when on the gas the bike revs to the moon but stops pulling very early. Does that sound like a clutch problem?

I did replace the crank case oil, but could I have gotten coolant on the clutch plates? Would that cause them to slip, thus, creating what I am experiencing??? I'm just guessing here....

Thanks again for the help and expertise....

Wardd.

 

[Durt Cycler]

Sounds like it's time for some new clutch plates. Is there play in the lever to perch?

 

[wardd]

Fixed but not Completely Resolved

It appears that the plates and springs are well within spec. Both I and my Dealer measured/examined them, and everything seems in tact.

I did remove some really thick grease/gunk from the end of the push rod, which I suspect may have been inhibiting it's function. I neglected to measure the pushrod length before reassembling, only to inspect the ends for damage, so it may have shortened due to wear(know issue with YZ's I'm told).

I was able to resolve the problem with the bike slipping by simply playing with the clutch adjuster. There is virtually no free play on my bike, and when I adjust for just the smallest amount of play, the bike will move forward slightly when in gear and the lever pulled all the way in(does not completely disengage). I worked more with the wheel adjustment up by the clutch lever itself. I installed a Works aluminum 'on the fly' clutch adjuster, and it seems to be very tempermental. That does nothing for the clutch lever free play, but the bike runs great and that's what is most important.

Thanks for the help.
Wardd..

Problems like these sure make you learn more about your bike!