cr 125 wont start now!!! (HELP)

Jus*

Member
Feb 16, 2009
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Hi i'm new to this,
Anyway i have just brought my first bike an cr 125 1998. It needed some work doing to it but it would start fine ( Just wouldn't go to good) Needed new reeds, Ive just Put in some v-force reeds, new fuel, oil etc... Now it wont start. i had left the bike for approx 3-4 months without starting it, i cleaned and tested the spark plug and its got a spark, As im new to bikes i not sure what esle it could be, Also i tried to bumb start it and it still wouldn't go. Any ideas lads
 

yz80nbeast

Member
Jan 25, 2007
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clean the carb really good, and if you havent done so already, buy a new plug, my kx125 had spark but not enough, i changed my plug and she started right up first kick
 

Patman

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Dec 26, 1999
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IndyMX said:
take apart the carb and clean it thoroughly..

yz80nbeast said:
clean the carb really good,...
Would you like a cracker Polly?

When you say it has a spark, can you describe the spark? What color? Is it small or very noticable?

You left the bike for 3-4 months, where did you leave it? Inside or outside? Do you live in a wet or corrosive environment where the electrical connection might be more prone to corrosion? Is the plug wet with fuel? When you take the carb apart to clean is like IndyMX smartly suggested be sure tou understand how it goes back together. I suggest getting a factory Honda service manual or at least look at an exploded parts diagram such as bike bandit or Service Honda have. Don't bother with a cheap house brand spray cleaner use something like CRC, Berryman's, or Syntec to make sure everything is really getting cleand and not just spread around.

For a bit more detailed info than even what I provided check out http://www.eric-gorr.com/carb cleaning and jetting.pdf which is from Eric's book which SHOULD be required reading for anybody that owns a bike. The book is full of great info and is priced very reasonably.
 
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Jus*

Member
Feb 16, 2009
4
0
Hey thanks alot guys, Yeah the bike was left in dry conditions, The sparks seams white in colour and can see it very well. i will try that out and let you know how i get on
 

GarbatyA4

Member
Sep 4, 2008
110
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Ok, After you kick it 5-10 times, check to see if the plug is wet? if so, then your bottom end is flooded.

Remove the plug, let it sit for a day or blow it out with compressed air (make sure its really clean and no crap falls in side and wear safety glasses)

buy a new plug (stock heat range)

hook up spark plug to spark plug boot and rest against the motor. Crank a few times by hand to see if u have a nice solid white,blueish,purpleish spark. Orange and small spark is bad coil usually.

close fuel petcock.

loosen clamps to rotate the carb, drain the float bowl.

open fuel petcock, allow floatbowl to fill again.

take bike off the stand, and lean it over from side to side to see if gas is flowing over. (full of gas)

Kick start the bike, it should run. If its flooded bad, you'll need a friend to push you to bump start it.

Good luck. :ride:
 

GarbatyA4

Member
Sep 4, 2008
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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
I truly believe none of the pressure would reach the seals, but, it would only take a small amount of pressure to push past the seals in the bottom end.

I was just saying, give it a quick blast of air. It's not like he's going to hydro-test the bottom end to determine if the seals are going to fail or not. You need a sealed system. Blowing it with air won't hurt it.

:rotfl:
 

Mully

Moderator / SuperPowers
Jun 9, 1999
4,234
114
GarbatyA4 said:
I'm just trying to help... I never tried the compressed air trick... I just left my plug out for a couple nights

Then why post it as a fix????
 

IndyMX

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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
Leak down test, 4 to 6 psi? Average air compressor, 120 psi? What do you think? You may have fumbled on a hillbilly method of seal removal?


If the bike produces 150+ psi on a compression test, how could 120PSI from a compressor hurt the seals?

Not that I agree with the guy, but your argument seems a bit flawed there Bob.

(keeping in mind, that I could be completely out of my mind here..)
 

IndyMX

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Well then, how much does the bottom end see?? I haven't a clue.. but seeing that the top does, you'd imagine that the bottom would be somewhere close.. I don't know.. That's why I'm putting it out there.
 

whenfoxforks-ruled

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Think about how it works, it draws the charge(vacuum) into the bottom end. The piston comes down and displaces the charge through the transfers and into the dome. The piston comes up, blocks ALL the ports, and then it has 150 psi, only then, and spews out the exhaust. Top end compression never gets to the bottom end. There is a bunch of fancier initials, and it is a lot more technical, but? And honestly, if you spewed 150 psi into the spark plug, if the piston is in the correct position, it can go into the bottom end, most would go out the exhaust, and intake. If the piston was up near the top, it would do nothing! This is a 2 stroke isn't it?
 

IndyMX

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True.. my head is back on straight again.. I guess I did sorta forget about that gaping hole that is the transfer ports & exhaust port.
 

IndyMX

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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
4 stroke guys, sheeez! If I do nothing else, and if riding season ever comes again(stupid ice storm and cold, again), you will ride a decently tuned 500.......

HA! Good luck on that mission Bob!
 

IndyMX

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HA! No.. I was thinking more about how hard it's going to be for you to get me on the 500... Unless it's one of those fancy bikes AJ likes building.
 

Jus*

Member
Feb 16, 2009
4
0
hey thanks alot for the info.
I,ve cleaned the carb out changed the spark plug and after about 5-6 kicks it started, it was revving high Cleaned the choke tube out and it stopped reving high but its thowing out alot of white/grey smoke, Would that just be because of the build up of crap because of how its been standing for? (3-4 Months)
 

whenfoxforks-ruled

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White, grey smoke, that usually means you have a coolant leak getting into the combustion chamber. A 125 does need to be cleared out a bit after it warms up, but! Take off the radiator cap while its cool, start it, do have bubbles in the radiator, more when you rev it? That will probably point to a bad head/head gasket. Are you sure that some antifreeze did not get into the bottom end while taking it apart? It should burn off, eventually if that is the case.
 

_JOE_

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whenfoxforks-ruled said:
Leak down test, 4 to 6 psi? Average air compressor, 120 psi? What do you think? You may have fumbled on a hillbilly method of seal removal?
I wonder if that works to get the seals out????

120 psi in the bottom end would probly lodge bits of the reed petals in the air filter, lol.
 
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