Da'gone Girly Bars

[moridin]

Actually I can lp`ace the blame firmly on myself and those goon buggies that destroy our trails. I found myself with an 18" rut on either side (goon buggy trail) with a rounded hump in the middle. Well I close both ruts as the front was tracking left and the rear was tracking right. That didnt last long as I went down hard and tweaked my bars once again.

I find myself twisting my bars in the triples on a per-ride basis now. SOmetimes it is hard to see where the tweaking is occuring - but after loosenting the triples and also the rubber mounts - giving everything a good snap - all is fine.

This is starting to get old. I have finished too many events with bars 1/2" or more out of whack. May seem minor, but it drives me insane.

Anyone else have any suggenstions for solutions?

I was thinking of going to fat bars - do the fat bar setups remove the rubber mounts etc? I think that is where my problem is occuring.

sn

 

[css_elfers]

Fat bars require you get all new mounts which are around $120 plus the fatties which are another $100. I just got the renthal 7/8 and went down in a rut last weekend and nothin happend. I had the fatties on my 300 exc and went down a couple times, those never bent either so I would say ur choice.

Elf

 

[moridin]

It isnt the bars themselves as I have Moose 7/8 which IMO are pretty decent bars for $50.

It has to be that rubber mounting setup that I just dont seem to like. Once I loosen the nuts on the bottom of the trees and tweak - everything appears ok.

So does the fat bar mount replace the whule upper clamp?

sn

 

[crazymike]

I don't know why, but I can't seem to bend my stock bars leaving no excuse to buy new ones.

I've crashed hard so many times it's not even funny but the bars remain straight :p

Maybe I will have to have a trailer loading mishap like I did with my last bike. Bent the bars quite nicely :p

 

[YZ165]

You can buy aluminum cones that replace the rubber ones. I'm not sure if it would keep the bars from twisting though. White Brothers has 'em. Otherwise, stop crashing.

 

[moridin]

Otherwise, stop crashing.

I knew that was coming...

 

[YZ165]

I'm not trying to be a jackss or anything. Just sounds like if you slow down a little you would actually be going faster.

 

[JasonWho]

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[skipro3]

Replacing the rubber cones with metal ones with stiffen it up and stop the twisting but at a price....more felt vibration and your bars will bend when hammered. It will solve the problem though and should be pretty inexpensive to do.

 

[motorider200]

I bought an FRP Upper Handle Bar Clamp because i was sick of having to twist mine back in place after every layover. The product worked great there is no more twisting in the mounts. Here is a link:

http://www.frpoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=FRP&Category_Code=frp1

 

[BRYDEN1]

Are you using a one piece upper clamp? If not, get one off a kx or aftermarket supplier. Honda makes their cones out of urethane and they are much stiffer and more durable. Mounting your bark busters to the triple clamp will also stiffen up the bars. Just using the one piece upper clamp will most likely solve your problem and the rest will bulletproof your bars.

 

[Mrobbins]

Mine used to twist all the time from a little tree hit or crash. Sucked racing with tweaked bars.

Got the Scott's high density rubber cones with permanent metal end caps (less vibes than all metal but much stiffer than OEM) AND the one piece FRP top clamp. Many crashes and bashes later the bars have not moved a millimeter. I am still slow, but at least the bike is headed in the direction I point the bars. :-)

 

[LukeRips]

I'm not trying to be a jackss or anything. Just sounds like if you slow down a little you would actually be going faster.

What??? Crashes will happen, you have to expect that no matter how fast your going. If your not going fast enough to crash, your not riding IMO. What he really wants to know is NOT how to avoid crashing but how-to keep from tweaking his bars everytime it happens. Get some Renthals, stock Kawi bars are the worst in the industry for reliability. And their bend reminds me of a set of bars from a '76 KX250.

 

[moridin]

I think I may first try the one piece upper. Hopefully that will stop the movement.

I found this one: 46012-1190 (off a 2004 KX125). I have to order a few OEM parts anyway - this looks to be the right size. Are the bolt patterns identical?

If I went with OEM Honda cones - do you switch lowers too - or is that a semi-universal size where I can use the Kaw stock lowers?

Thanks all for the advice - sans the stop crashing. You have to have decent get-offs to know where that fine line of capability lies. And to keep you humble.

sn

 

[dixie]

The KX top clamp or any top clamp will reduce the twist no cones more vibes extra tip make a piece or bolt you bark busters to the top triple clamp instead of the bars gives more room opens up the area to mount more goodies on.

 

[Okiewan]

Take a look at ProTaper's SE Bars.

 

[bcVulcan]

I fianally broke down and got the fat bars, triple clamp and bar mounts when I got my steering stabilizer. Some of the best money I ever spent. No more tweeked bars and lots more room.

 

[canyncarvr]

A couple of things:

The one piece top clamp will help a whole lot with bars getting tweaked due to less than stellar support of the oem bushings.

The high durometer bushings mentioned (let alone the aluminium (sic) ones) certainly do have a price as Skipro said. Too high a price for me! I took mine out in the middle of a ride 'cuz I couldn't stand the KTM buzz!! Hey! If I want my arms to be numb within ten minutes I'll just buy the orange package! (Mostly kidding. I've ridden a 200ex/c a good bit. It's a great (buzz-buzz) bike!)

You don't need to spend gazillions of $$ on bars, imo. Without the one-piece clamp the oem bars and a couple other sets of bars didn't last long. With the one piece clamp (from jay seavey/JCV) I've run the same set of Renthals for a couple of years. They haven't not bent 'cuz they haven't been whacked neither! (count the negatives)

Re: loosening the clamps
That has never been a problem with the conventional forks on my kdx. It is always a problem on USD stuff for reasons I don't understand. USD clamps generally have a larger bearing surface and are tightened to about the same spec. Still, I've seen a few bikes (different brands, different forks) that look like a DNA strand after a relatively light hit.

A Scotts makes a big difference. For one, it won't likely fit under a straight crossbar. For two, the loose pedestal bushings on the kdx tends to misalign the damper-to-post joint...and that will kill your damper in short order if you don't pay attention!

OK...I guess that's more than a couple...........;)

 

[moridin]

What do you all think about this setup?

They have a Honda/Suzuki/Kawasaki version and a Yamaha version. I am guessing that the top triple is the same OEM setup from Red/Yellow and Green?

This and a set of Renthal Fat Bars is $150 - not too bad in the dollars department.

Any thoights?

Sean

 

[skipro3]

Here's a photo of the bars, clamp and brush guards I use. Total: $160 and they are ready for the Scott's dampner.