difference between a revalve/refurb

mxman2000

Member
Jan 19, 2008
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Hi,

so i have decided to get my rear shock sent away for a service. But when checking online i can get a refurb done which includes the seals,bushes,o-rings and piston rings all changed , reoiled,regassed and set up to rider weight for £90 or i can get it revalved for around 600? Can anyone explain what the difference would be and if i would need it done.

thx in advance.

Edit- on a side note, Does anyone know if radiator guards off a 96/97 rm125 will fit an 01 250.
 
Last edited:

helio lucas

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Jun 20, 2007
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mxman,
a revalve job includes (or it should) a refurb job. basically refurb is just maintenance, changing of oils and any high wear parts.
a revalve is changing suspension internals like shims positions, aftermarket or modded pistons, etc to modify the characteritics of the suspension damping to suit a particular kind of riding.
 

mxman2000

Member
Jan 19, 2008
60
0
helio lucas said:
mxman,
a revalve job includes (or it should) a refurb job. basically refurb is just maintenance, changing of oils and any high wear parts.
a revalve is changing suspension internals like shims positions, aftermarket or modded pistons, etc to modify the characteritics of the suspension damping to suit a particular kind of riding.


Thx for the info. So right now i pretty much like the way it handles but on big jumps i have had it bottom out a few times. do you think i just need a refurb or do i need the whole revalve?
 

Chili

Lifetime Sponsor - Photog Moderator
Apr 9, 2002
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Your suspension should bottom on the biggest of hits, not a hard clanking metal on metal but should use all the travel.

By Radiator guards are you referring the the shroud plastic or braces to make the rad stronger? The shroud plastic is a definite no go, the rad braces are pretty unlikely to fit but couldn't say for absolute certainty.
 

mxman2000

Member
Jan 19, 2008
60
0
Chili said:
Your suspension should bottom on the biggest of hits, not a hard clanking metal on metal but should use all the travel.

By Radiator guards are you referring the the shroud plastic or braces to make the rad stronger? The shroud plastic is a definite no go, the rad braces are pretty unlikely to fit but couldn't say for absolute certainty.


hey, yeah its the radiator guards( the things that stop the radiators fromm getting stones in them etc.) been running with just 1 for too long.

Well its bottomed out before enough to leave tyre marks on the mud guard and enough to break 2 ankles :( .
 

mxman2000

Member
Jan 19, 2008
60
0
_JOE_ said:
Do you have the correct springs for your weight?


im not sure, IF anything the spring is too hard as the back end is always all over the place, although thats the way im used to riding. only thing i know about the spring is its red. :eek:
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
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All you need to do is take a couple sag measurements and compare them to the spec in your manual to check your spring.
 

mxman2000

Member
Jan 19, 2008
60
0
_JOE_ said:
All you need to do is take a couple sag measurements and compare them to the spec in your manual to check your spring.


i set up the racing sag etc last winter and im pretty sure it worked out ok. just always looks more controlled when a heavier rider is on my bike. So what would you say about the refurb/revalve? Will i be needing the revalve or will a refurb sort it out ok?
 

_JOE_

~SPONSOR~
May 10, 2007
4,697
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A revalve won't change the bottoming if the spring is wrong. Most bikes come from the factory set up for average height/weight. Say 160-180lbs and around 5'10" or so. If you fit in there and aren't a really fast rider you should be fine on a freshly serviced factory setup, however if you stray from that a revalve and spring change would likely make a great improvement. Be sure to share the love with the forks, they work together and can fight each other if mismatched.
 

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